To follow up on our trip with my wife’s family along the Danube, the Traveling Igoes set off for the motherland, Ireland, at the beginning of August. We were there basically Sunday to Saturday, not including travel days, and split time between the east, west and north coasts. We landed in Dublin and drove straight across, so for the purposes of this blog, this post will focus on our first three+ days that took place in the Galway area.
After leaving the airport, we made a few stops along the way in a wonderful little town called Althone. The town is absolutely charming, and we grabbed a quick lunch at a place called Left Bank Bistro. Very good, very affordable, and since it’s Europe, they don’t ask you to tip.
The real reason, though, that we stopped in Althone was for a quick visit to Sean’s Bar, which according to the sign on the outside and some sources on the online, is the oldest bar in Ireland. It was packed, but there’s a nice outside area in the back. It was a great place to grab our first Guinness of the trip.
We had planned to utilize a bit more of the drive to stop at Birr Castle and possibly the Clonmacnoise monastic site, but our flights was delayed almost three hours, so we decided to pass.
From Althone, we made the rest of the drive to our AirBNB, which can be found on the map as the Lisdonagh House. It’s a very large, historic home, and the approach feels treacherous, but it was a great place for 12 of us to stay, in a small town called Caherlistrane, about 30 minutes north of Galway proper.
As mentioned, we were with my family which is three brothers, three sisters-in-law, one niece and one nephew. My parents actually planned this trip, but dad has fallen quite ill, so they couldn’t make it. With this many people, it is hard to find things that everyone wants to do, so our modus operandi was and is to plan the things that we want to do and invite anyone else to join. Then we try to all get back together in the evening for dinner.
Following that line of thinking, on our first day, our family of five split off from the rest of the Igoes and drove over an hour south to an Irish National Park called The Burren. It an area that reminds me a bit of Sedona, except green and limestone-y. There’s a great trail there called the Mullaghmore Loop. This is a fun hike with some great views, although it was probably lowest on my list of the trails that we did. We took the blue route, which is the most difficult, but still under 5 miles. If you are planning this hike, you should be aware that the first three-quarters of a mile are on a paved road. You can actually drive up this road and park closer to where the real trail starts. If we were to do this hike again, that’s definitely what I would do.
From there, we drove in County Clare and went kayaking with Nevsail Watersports. Kayaking is always a mixed bag for me; it sounds like a ton of fun but is usually pretty exhausting after about five minutes. The real gem of this part of our trip was kayaking to a spot where we were able to get out a do a bit of coasteering and cliff diving.
As we were in the area, we then drove to the Kilkee Cliffs. The west coast of Ireland is crawling with great sea cliffs, the most famous of which are the Cliffs of Moher. You could make the argument that if you’ve seen one cliff, you’ve seen them all, and there’s some truth to that, but we saw several, and it was inspiring every time. Kilkee is definitely smaller but still very striking, and there were almost no crowds.
Finally, we drove back to a cute little town called Doonbeg for the real purpose of the trip, visiting the Igoe Inn. This is a great bar in a great town and happens to bear our name. The owner’s mother’s maiden name was Igoe, and they were excited to see us. They no longer serve food, which was too bad, but it was a great experience.
On the way back, we stopped at pub called Brogan’s for dinner. It’s hard to find a place that can seat 12, so we split into two groups just to make things a little easier. Brogan’s is really cute and definitely served the best fish and chips I had throughout our experiences.
The next day, we went into Galway proper and took the Aran Islands Ferry to Inis Mor, about a 90 minute ride into the Atlantic. When we got there, we rented bikes a cruised all over the small town. If you’re doing this, I strongly recommend e-bikes. By the end of the day, the uphills were getting very depressing. Inis More has a castle ruin that’s about a ten minute hike that offers great cliff views and very unique scenery.
This portion was probably my least favorite part of our trip. It was still a lot of fun, but the boat ride out there is long, and the ride back is longer. The seating on the boat is first come, first served, so that situation wasn’t great, and overall, it didn’t feel like the greatest use of our time. The boat ride back is actually almost 2.5 hours, but it goes down by the Cliffs of Moher. This part was pretty great. Seeing the cliffs from the sea is a great experience, and definitely different than walking on top of them.
This portion of the trip was planned by someone else. Had we made the arrangements, we would have gone south and taken the Doolin Ferry to Inis Oirr. This is another of the Aran Islands, offering basically the same opportunities, but the ferry ride is only like 10 minutes.
When we got back to Galway, we made our way into the Latin Quarter. This is one of the best places I have ever been. It’s kind of like Bourbon Street but without the vagrant, heat and human excrement. We ate at a place called The Quays (which is right by the Galway Girl statue), and it was nothing short of fantastic. I got an authentic cottage pie, for sure my favorite meal in Ireland.
On our final full day on the west coast, we drove into Connemara National Park. The drive there was incredible; it’s what you think of when you think of the Irish countryside. We went specifically to do the Upper Diamond Hill Loop. This trail offers great views, wildlife and if you get there early, it’s pretty empty. It’s about 5 miles, and at about the 1.5 mile mark, it becomes pretty strenuous. It is also frequently covered in fog, as it was for us. At the top, it felt like we were walking in a cloud and could barely see 10 feet. It was quite a unique experience.
We ate lunch at a fun little spot right outside the park entrance called Veldon’s Seafarer. Good food, fair pricing and again, no tipping. The Kylemore Abbey is also in this area. It wouldn’t have been worth it for us to drive just for that, but it’s worth seeing if you’re in the area.
Also in the area is Killary Sheep Farm. This a cute little, active farm that does sheep dog demonstrations. We got to watch a dog heard about 20 sheep, feed some of the smaller sheep and actually hold one. This is definitely geared more towards the kids, but everyone seemed to enjoy it.
The next morning we left, so I’ll pick that up in the next post, but I wanted to touch on a few things before moving east. First of all, driving on the wrong side of the road takes a lot of getting used to. You constantly feel like your about to either hit the curb or run headlong into oncoming traffic.
Second, the west coast of Ireland is one of the best places I have ever been. We are legitimately thinking about moving there permanently. Everyone is so friendly, and way of life seems incredibly laid back
Lastly, the tipping situation is great, and the conversation rate for Euro’s is pretty good right now. I do suggest, if possible, that you look into getting a credit card that offers no foreign transaction fees. We got one right before we went, and it probably saved us over $100, maybe more.
Next up, we take a left turn and head for the Dublin region of Ireland…