The family and I have been wanting to go to the College World Series in Nebraska for several years now. We’d planned before but always had to cancel. This year, we pulled the trigger again and actually succeeded. If you’re hoping to go, regardless of which teams make it, here’s your guide.
Buy everything early!!! We booked our plane tickets on Southwest in January when they were still cheap. We actually flew in and out of of Kansas City, which is only about 2.5 hours south. It was cheaper and faster than trying to fly to Omaha, at least from New Orleans.
Same thing goes for our hotel. We booked in January, and the options were still limited and expensive. We paid $300/night for a Home2 Suites that was about 15 minutes from the stadium. I checked about a week prior to the first game to see if anything better was available, and by then, the cheapest rooms that any Hilton brand had were $700.
When we bought the tickets, LSU was ranked #2 in the country and Kentucky was #17. Neither made it. While that was disappointing in one sense, it was nice to go a simply enjoy ourselves rather than stressing over the success of our teams. We bought all of our tickets from resale vendors, and at the time, they weren’t crazy expensive. We spent about $100/ticket for five people for three games
We arrived in Omaha just before the start of the second game of the tournament on Friday evening. Parking would have been crazy, but we had the foresight to purchase parking from StubHub, so we were able to get in and out pretty easily.
It’s noteworthy that the parking lots nearby host several tailgates, including more than one for LSU, even though the team itself was not present.
All three games we attended were a ton of fun. An interesting aspect of the early CWS rounds is that the stadium is very split. About 25% of the fans are for one team, 25% the other, and 50% are just there to be there. The stadium itself is great, and while it doesn’t have the same amenities that a big league park has, there are plenty of food and drink options. You should research these yourself before and remember to get your ID checked once your inside. If you get in line for a beer without a wristband, you’ll have to get right back out, go to an ID station, then get back in line.
Outside the stadium, there are several family friendly, and baseball-specific, things to do. There’s a ballpark village with all sorts of interactive vendors that our 14 year old ball player loved. There’s also a fan area that has activities for younger kids, like a ferris wheel.
Aside from going to the actual games, there are some fun things to do in Omaha. We had planned to go to Treerush, a ropes course nearby, but weather changed our plans. It looks like a lot of fun though, and a nice way to knock out the morning, as the first games don’t start until 2 pm.
There’s also an NPS site, the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. This site actually spans 14 states, but the spot in Omaha is cool. It includes a bridge that crosses the Missouri and allows you to walk between Nebraska and Iowa. We took advantage of this on Saturday morning, completing the 50/50 states quest for Alyson, Eileen and JR.
There are also a lot of fun places to eat, of which was sampled several. Rocco’s Pizza and Cantina is the iconic home of the jello shots. We went, keeping the minors outside, and took a shot. They were pretty gross, and I understand the food is mediocre, but it seemed like something we couldn’t miss.
Before the first game on Saturday, we ate at Blatt Beer & Table, which is right next to the stadium, and unsurprisingly packed. The food is nothing amazing, but it is a fun atmosphere.
Our last meal was at Caddy’s Brunch Bar, which is actually in Council Bluffs, Nebraska. We had a great breakfast there, and it made it feel a little more legit that we had a meal in Iowa, rather than just a few minutes in the car and a few steps on a bridge.
I think you’ve got to be a pretty big baseball fan or have a dog in the hunt to really want to go to Omaha, but if either of those describes you, you should put the College World Series on your list. It is a great, unique experience.
Next up for the Traveling Igoes is a river cruise starting in Munich and ending in Budapest. Stay tuned…
This year, my son’s 8th grade class took a retreat to San Antonio for Memorial Day, so the rest of us decided it might be a fun time to get out of town. We love New Orleans, but we also love getting away from it, so when we found cheap flights, we jumped at the opportunity.
We found affordable, well timed flights into Nashville and out of Atlanta, and there are several things on my list of must-see places in the area, so it seemed liked the right fit. We flew into Nashville on Friday evening, grabbed a rental car and drove to Cookeville, TN. For the purposes of this blog, I’ll break things down into the three main areas that we stayed.
Stop 1
Our first stop was really to visit only one place, Cummins Falls. This is a really impressive waterfall at a state park of the same name about 20 minutes north of Cookeville (about 1.5 hours east of Nashville). There are a few things to keep in mind before you go. First, you’ll need a reservation for each person in your party, at $6/head. We booked online in advance (although no one ever checked).
The website says that the hike to the base of falls can be treacherous, and suggests durable water shoes. A life jacket, which they will provide, is also required for kids under 12. Lastly, they hike to the base of the falls is often closed due to weather conditions in fear of a flash flood. Unfortunately, this was the case when we visited.
The good news is that there is a shorter hike to an overlook that still offers great views of a really impressive waterfall. I will admit that we were disappointed in not being able to visit the base, but it was actively raining, so we weren’t surprised.
Stop 2
Our next stop took us another two hours east (and into a new time zone) to Chattanooga. If you’ve never been, this is definitely one that should go on your list. Stuck right into a set of mountains, it has a wonderful small town feel with all the amenities of a well developed metro.
Our first stop was a really unique tourist attraction called Rock City. We booked reservations in advance, with a specific arrival time, but arrived almost two hours early. The people who work there were more than happy to help us adjust our tickets so as to not have to wait.
Situated on top of a mountain, Rock City has take several great natural formations and incorporated several family friendly activities. Admittedly, they have added a lot of artificial fun, but it was still fun. There are several caves, slot canyons and waterfalls. There are also great views, a storybook land and little gnomes hidden throughout.
There’s a nice set of restaurants at the top, so you can make a solid day of it. We probably spent less then three hours here, but we could have stayed for more if we didn’t have other plans.
Chattanooga also offers several great hikes. There’s a NPS site, the Chickamauga & Chattanooga National Military Park. It’s Civil War site but has been well-developed and has some great trails. We hiked the Glen Falls Trail, which is about 2 miles round trip, with the back half being entirely along a great river in which you can swim. It’s a great trail, but parking is really limited, and the trail itself is treacherous, especially when wet (Alyson, Clara and I all fell).
From there, we made our way to Ruby Falls, which was at the top of my list for must-visit places in Tennessee. Again, this is a heavily tourist-ed attraction, but it is worth your time. Buy timed tickets in advance but get there a few minutes early. The let us take a tour about 30 minutes before our allotted time, and we had a nice local beer while we waited.
The cave is well developed, the tour takes just over an hour, and there is an amazing underground waterfall at the end. If I were to critique Ruby Falls at all, it would be that they let way too many people into the cave at a time. There was a lot of standing to the side to let a group pass, and getting out on the one elevator at the end took almost half an hour. They let in groups of 40 at a time, but really should limit it to more like 20, but I suppose that’s how business works.
That evening, we ate at Tailgate Beer, a brewery that also offers great pizzas. It is in a really cool area of downtown Chattanooga and has a great two story outdoor space. If we lived there, I feel like we’d spend a ton of time in this area.
The next morning, before we left, we hit the last major tourist attraction in Chattanooga, the Incline Railway. If you’ve taken an incline before, then you’ll know what this is, as they all seem to be more or less the same. This one gets really steep, and reportedly offers great views at the top. It was very overcast during our visit, so I can’t say for sure, but the experience is fun, albeit kind of kitschy.
Stop 3
Our final destination took us about two hours south to Helen, an adorable little Bavarian town hidden in the north Georgia foothills. The city has done a really nice job of maintaining its German identity while still offering modern amenities. It has definitely gotten very touristy, but is a lot more manageable than a place say, Gatlinburg.
We got there at around noon and immediately headed for Cool River Tubing. We had booked in advance, so were quickly able to get on the bus to tube the Chattahoochie. A nice thing about Cool River is that they offer regular, 1 hour tube rides, so it is very convenient. For those of you that tube a lot, you know it can become a bit monotonous, but on such a short ride, that wasn’t a problem. The river also moves quite briskly, so it is a really enjoyable ride.
After that, we hopped on board the Georgia Mountain Coaster. If you’ve ridden more than one alpine coaster in your life, you’ll realize that they are more or less all the same, which was confirmed by the one in Helen. It did include a ride up on the coaster, which is somewhat unique, but the line was over an hour, so only debatably worth it.
That night, we had a very authentic German meal at The Heidelberg, and Alyson and I grabbed an after-dinner drink at Big Daddy’s and Paul’s Margarita Deck. There are several interesting places to eat and drink in town; if only we’d had more time.
One more thing to keep in mind is that the are has ample great hiking trails. Our first stop was Anna Ruby Falls, which I would say was my favorite part of the whole trip. This a very well developed, short trail in a National Forest. The hike isn’t long, but it is pretty steep all the way up. It is certainly worth it though. The payoff is two towering waterfalls that come together to form a roiling river.
Before we left, we also hit the Dukes Creek Trail, which is about two miles, but downhill to start (boo). It is actually similar to Anna Ruby in that it ends in the confluence of two impressive waterfalls. I preferred the former, but both trails are totally worth your time.
We had a really great Tennessee/Georgia experience, and I was able to cross three things off of my list. Next up for us is a short trip to Omaha for some baseball (and to get Alyson, Eileen and Clara their 49th and 50th states).
After the Pirates’ game, we headed straight out of town on the way to Detroit. The cities are about four hours apart, so it’s not the simplest trip, but we stayed overnight in Akron which is more or less in between.
I am going to be totally honest, I went into to Detroit expecting (possibly hoping) to hate it. Growing up as a Blues fan in St. Louis, I detested the Red Wings but that rivalry has fizzled. I am quite pleased to say that we had a very nice experience.
It feels as though Detroit is undergoing a bit of a renaissance. It is not finished, as there is work going on everywhere, but what has been done so far was quite nice.
What We Did:
Joe Lewis Fist: In downtown Detroit, there is an homage to the legendary pugilist Joe Lewis. It’s is basically a forearm making a fist and reminded me a bit, conceptually, as the Bean in Chicago. There’s very little to do there, but it’s something to see. It’s also right by the riverfront, across from which you can ogle Windsor, Canada.
Buddy’s Pizza: We ate at the one near the ballpark, which is not the original, but was still really good. It was hoping right before the game, and Detroit-style pizza is one of my favorites.
Tigers’ Game: Same as above, I went in with very low expectations for the Tigers and was pleasantly surprised. While the stadium is not as amazing as Pittsburgh, it is built in the same fashion, with an open centerfield that features the cityscape. It is also very kid friendly, with several areas that include carousels and ferris wheels. Oh, and for you St. Louisans, they’ve got a beer hall that serves classic T-Ravs.
Belle Isle: In the middle of the Detroit River stands a moderately sized island that has a lot for the family We went there on Sunday, and technically, there is a charge to enter, but no one asked us. The Isle has a huge slide, a golf course and a lighthouse, amongst other things. We spent out time at the aquarium, which is definitely a throwback. It might not be super PETA friendly, but our family enjoyed it. The Isle is getting a lot of work done, much like the city itself, so in the future, it will probably be an even better stop.
Easter Mass: This part of the blog is for those of you that are interested in my thought on Easter church services, so likely very few of you. I will try to be brief but feel free to hop past. We went to a 9 am service at the St. Joseph Shrine and frankly, I did not enjoy it. To begin, it was a Latin mass, and I like the Latin, but I did not like this. Evidently, it was a traditional Latin mass, where the priest faces away from us the entire time, was not mic’d and did not address the congregation. It felt like I was watching mass, rather than celebrating.
The homily, which I did not realize was happening, as I was quite lost, began with several minutes of parish announcements. It is hard enough to keep people’s attention and starting with info about the upcoming gala is not a good start.
The congregation itself was very unusual. There was an oddly large number of veiled parishioners, including children, and it felt like almost everyone had at least four children under the age of 8.
I understand that the Latin mass is growing in popularity, and I love the Latin, but I also want to participate. I believe the numbers about the popularity are skewed. Most cities have only one or two Latin services/week, so the fact that they are well attended might have to do more with scarcity than demand but enough of my soap box. The church itself was gorgeous.
San Morello: For brunch afterwards, we ate at a nice place near the hotel. We were skeptical, as the brunch menu didn’t look super kid friendly, but the food was really good and the kids were happy.
Next stop for us is an impromptu Memorial Day trip to Tennessee and Georgia; stay tuned…
This year for Easter, we decided to make another ballpark trip. We caught two games, one in Pittsburgh and one in Detroit. For the purposes of the blog (again), I am going to break it into two posts, starting with the Steel City.
We left New Orleans on Friday morning, and had some travel complications, so didn’t arrive until about 2 pm. We had a few things planned, but since we lost about an hour and a half, and the Pirates’ game started at 4, we had to abbreviate our plans.
What We Did:
Pittsburgh Incline: The city has a pretty fun incline that only costs a few dollars (cash only). The top has great views of the city and a lot of cool restaurants and bars. We unintentionally parks at the top, so rode down, then back up. I recommend doing it the other direction. We were hopeful that we could park there and walk to the game, but it’s too far.
Pirates’ Game: If you’ve ever seen PNC Park on TV, you know that it’s pretty impressive, but what you see on TV does not do it justice. The Pirates’ park is spectacular. The views of the city and the river are incredible, and they’ve done a great job of integrating the stadium into the city. If you drive a few blocks away, things change fast, and the teams has been only arguably competitive for several decades, but they got it right with the stadium. I think this is 18th home team that I’ve seen, and I would definitely put PNC park in my top 5.
Aside from this, we had very little time for much else, as we headed straight out after the game for a hotel on the way to Detroit. Pittsburgh’s got several breweries that we hoped to visit and an interesting downtown, but that’s the way it goes. Onwards to Detroit…
On our second and final day in Disneyland, we visited California Adventure, which has fewer rides overall but is more geared towards older park goers. The two parks rotate which one opens half an hour early, so we got in line in time to rope drop and went straight to the Pixar area and got in line for the Cars ride. It’s the one ride in the park that can’t be Lightning Lane’d (unless you pay), so getting there early is a must.
Overall, our five year old did very well with the bigger rides. She was too short to ride the IncrediCoaster, but beyond that, she jumped on everything. We knew we were leaving earlier than the day prior, so we decided not to bother stacking Lightning Lanes, and we still managed to ride everything that was available.
Radiator Springs Racer: This ride is fantastic, but as mentioned, can only be Lightning Lane’d if you pay. We went straight to line and had to wait about 30 minutes, but most of the rest of the day, the line was over 2 hours. I recommend you knock this one out first; it is really well done and a lot of fun.
Golden Zephyr: This is a nice filler ride. It is basically a different take on a classic ‘swing’ ride. It’s fun, and the line is usually pretty short.
Grizzly River Run: This was one of our favorite rides of the day, and we rode multiple times (possibly because the line was usually short). It is a variation on a log flume; you ride in a seven seater tube rather than a canoe. You should expect to get wet, but it’s a lot of fun and the line moves quickly
Guardians of the Galaxy: This is one of California Adventure’s most popular rides. It is basically the Tower of Terror, re-imagined with Rocket Raccoon. Disney did a really good job of incorporating the Guardians theme, and considering what I remember of Tower of Terror, it is far more exhilarating than it is scary, perhaps because it is not mostly indoors.
IncrediCoaster: Evidently, this is a fantastic roller coaster. My wife and older two kids loved it, including my son, who was nervous about the one loop. Clara couldn’t ride, so we spent our time elsewhere, but JR and Eileen managed to get on three times in a short day.
Inside Out Emotional Whirlwind: This is a nice balloon-style swing ride. It is definitely more geared towards the little ones, but the line moves quickly, and it is definitely fun. Clara and I rode it a second time while the big kids went on the roller coaster.
Jessie’s Critter Carousel: This is basically just a standard carousel, which I do not think should be prioritized during a Disney visit, but it did the trick for Clara and I when the big kids were riding elsewhere.
Jumpin’ Jellyfish: This is another fun, filler ride geared towards the little ones. It’s an up and down ride, kind of like a kiddie version of Tower of Terror. Clara loved it, but the big kids skipped it.
Little Mermaid: This ride is fun, but the animatronics feel out of date. Also, the line can get very long, and I do not feel it is worth an hour long wait. We got to it early and didn’t have to wait at all, but we didn’t go back in the afternoon when it got slammed.
Monster’s Inc: We Lightning Lane’d this one, and I thought it was fun. You are basically zipping through the Monster’s world. I wouldn’t put it at the top of our list or say it’s a must ride, but the animation is really good.
Soarin’ Around the World: This is a pretty cool ride that simulates flying all over the world. It’s lovely and fun, but not particularly exhilarating, and the line was always super long.
Toy Story Midway Mania: This is a classic shooter, spinning ride. It was a little difficult for Clara, as the concept was a bit above her, but the big kids thought it was worth the relatively short wait.
We were unable to ride Webslingers and Goofy, due to them being shut down most of the day. This, evidently, is not all that rare, so you can’t let it get you down. You’ve got to just make the best of it.
We had a great time at California Adventure, and I think the big kids’ favorite ride was the IncrediCoaster. That, there seemed to be more to do in Magic Kingdom, so overall, I think we preferred that.
From here, we went back to the classic Igoe trip and drove East out of LA en route to Joshua Tree. I’ll cover that next, but just want to leave with the thought that though Disney is expensive and hectic, it is a lot of fun, and the Disneyland experience can definitely be done in two packed days.
This year, for the annual Igoe Family Vacation, we met up with my parents and brothers in Arcadia, Michigan, which is about an hour south of Traverse City and in the general Sleeping Bear Dunes area. Michigan is always a relaxing trip, and there is a lot to do, but it does include a lot of driving. It is worth it though, the temperatures are moderate and there’s a lot to do.
What We Did
Sleeping Bear Dunes: This National Lakeshore offers a plethora of activities. Of places that we have visited recently, this one felt the most like it could or should be a National Park, not just a Lakeshore. There are lots of trails, lots of dunes, lots of lakes and a few associated satellite areas.
The first thing we did was take the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive and stopped at marker #4 and hiked the Cottonwood Trail. This 1.5 mile lollipop loop takes you to the top of the large dune that’s part of the dune challenge without having to hike up it. The view point at the top is great, and it is doable for those less physically able to climb a vertical sand dune. We recommend taking the loop clockwise, and also recommend stopping at markers 3, 9 and 11, if you’ve got the time.
Later on, we walked the Empire Bluffs Trail, which offers great views of Lake Michigan and several surrounding lakes. It is an easy, 1.6 mile out-and-back. Honestly, it is not spectacular, but it was worth the drive.
Our favorite trail was Pyramid Point. This loop is just under 3 miles and offers a great variety of scenery: dunes, woods, meadows and lakes. It is not very strenuous if you go clockwise. That said, the best lake views are at the beginning, but you go down all the steep dunes climbs, instead of up.
Speaking of, we also recommend the Dune Climb. This steep dune is the start to the Dune Challenge, which we did not do, but is a fun trek in and of itself. The kids really enjoyed rolling around and getting all sandy.
Boat Glen Lake: We booked a pontoon boat that could hold 14 from the On the Narrows Marina. We spent four hours cruising around Big Glen and Little Glen, tubing and swimming at several different spots. It made for a really fun day that all the kids loved.
Swim at Crystal Lake: There is a great public beach with amenities in the Beulah area of Crystal Lake. The waters is chilly, but not so much as Lake Michigan. The big lake is almost too cold to swim, but the interior lakes are bit more moderate.
Tube the Platte River: We used Crystal Lake Outfitters to tube the Platte River, and we did the longer version, which took about 3 hours from arrival to leaving. The Platte River is great to float, and the outfitter was competent, but it did feel like it took a long time to get started.
Craig’s Cruisers: On morning, we went south towards Shelby, MI, where some of my family used to attend camp. On the way, the kids, Alyson and I stopped at Craig’s Cruisers. They’ve got go-karts, bumper boats, mini-golf, a zip line, a roller coaster and an arcade. The kids had a blast, and it was a lot less expensive than you expect those activities to be.
Mac Woods Dune Rides: Also south of Aracadia, this dune tour was way more fun than I thought it would be. It opens at 9:30, but we didn’t get there until about 2 pm, which was a mistake. The had to wait over an hour for the 40 minute ride, but it was totally worth it. You might think it’s not that exciting, since your basically in an open-air bus rather than a dune buggy, but the ride is great. There’s lots of up and downs, lots of great views and the guide was really informative.
E-Bike Tour: My son’s favorite activity was riding about 8 miles along the Leelanau Trail north of Traverse City. I was a little unsure as to whether or not I’d enjoy an e-bike, but it was a lot of fun, and it is still good exercise.
Brewery Tours: There are dozens of breweries in the general area, and it feels like we tried to hit them all. We’ll touch base more on this in the section below.
Where We Ate
Storm Cloud Brewing: This was the closest brewery to our house, it was good, but it wasn’t our favorite. The pizza was solid, and the beer was fine, but I didn’t love the atmosphere. It felt really crowded and touristy. It was still certainly worth the visit, and I’d go back, but it wasn’t #1.
Hop Lot Brewing: I think this was my favorite brewery. It has really good beer, solid food and fantastic outdoors space that the kids loved.
Boondocks: This restaurant in Glen Arbor gets really mediocre reviews, but I thought it was just fine. We were able to sit all 13 of us outside, the fried fish sandwich was good and the beer was cold.
Cherry Point Farm Market: This farmers market reportedly has good sandwiches, but I could not disagree more. The entire experience was terrible, including the service and the food. It is basically just a grilled cheese restaurant, but it takes forever, and it costs way too much.
North Channel Brewing: This brewery was a great place to stop on our back north from the dune rides. They were friendly, had good beer and had a pretzel, about which Jr was over the moon.
St. Ambrose Cellars/Brose Brewing: This stop actually started out as place that brews meads but has expanded, including beers and food. The mead was really interesting, and the outdoor space is wonderful. You can even get a close look at a commercial beehive, if so include.
Where We Stayed:
This year, we stayed at an AirBNB in Arcadia, Michigan, which is about half an hour south of Sleeping Bear and an hour south of Traverse City. The house was great, and right on Lake Michigan, but it was a trek to get to just about everywhere. Given the choice, I think we would stay in either Empire or Traverse City itself in the future.
This is the first time in quite some time that we don’t actually have anything planned. We’ll be meeting some friends in Gulf Shores for Labor Day and visiting St. Louis for Thanksgiving, but those are old hat. With Eileen starting at UK in the fall, and JR starting high school, our calendar is in limbo. We might try to take a short weekend to see a ball game, maybe somewhere like Pittsburgh. We also are considering a Christmas break trip, maybe someplace to the south. We’ll keep traveling and will keep you posted; thanks for listening.
For the third and final leg of our European adventure, we moved south out of Slovenia and into the country that I had been anticipating the most, Croatia. Croatia has recently blown up as a tourist destination and is more able to handle it than was Slovenia, but it was still crowded. Compared to Italy, much like Slovenia, it was very affordable.
Most who visit Croatia go for the Mediterranean beaches, which are beautiful, but that was not our target. We did hit up Split for a few hours, but the majority of our time was spent visiting two of the most spectacular National Parks I have ever seen.
What We Did
Plitvice National Park: If you Google Croatia, images from Plitvice are some of the most frequent you will find. When traveling like this, it is always a worry that the real thing won’t live up to the social media hype. I was pleasantly surprised. I can safely say that Plitvice is one of the most spectacular places I have ever been, if not the most.
Plitvice is a waterfall lovers paradise. It is simply one spectacular fall after another, with beautiful greenery and strikingly blue lakes in between. We bought tickets in advance and arrived early, both a must, and set out from Entrance 1 (the north entrance) following the signs for Program C.
Program C is 3+ miles long, and kind of uphill, but the trek is mostly along well developed boardwalks. About halfway in, you’ll get to spot where you can either go left and walk around a lake or go right and take a boat. We went right and took the boat, but we had to wait over half an hour for the boat.
At the end, we took a shuttle back, but if we had more time, I would have wanted to walk back. It would have been another 3 or so miles, but would have been mostly downhill, and we’d have gotten to see everything again.
This park can definitely be done in less than a full day, but I could probably have spent a week there. Several of the features are closed, and don’t appear likely to re-open anytime soon, including the caves and the hike up to the Veliki Slap Viewpoint. You can drive to this locale, however, using the coordinates 44°54’9″ N 15°36’27” E.
If you get there early, you will have company, but for us, it was not terribly crowded. It is really hard to describe how wonderful is Plitvice; I should simply say that if you’re in the area, it should not be missed. If you are pressed for time, go north to south. Going the opposite direction will have you looking over your shoulder the whole time.
Krka National Park: Only slightly less amazing is Krka, the more southern of the two water wonderlands. Whilst Krka is not as vast as Plitvice, it has some equally spectacular areas and is more spread out.
Since we had our own car, we entered through the Lozovac entrance. To find this, just go to the city of Lozovac and follow the signs. This option allows you to bus or walk in, whereas the Skradin entrance requires a boat. The boat might actually be easier but allows far less flexibility.
At the Lozovac entrance, we took the bus, about a 10 minute ride in. At the bus stop, there are plenty of restrooms and restaurants. They were not open when we arrived at 8 (get there early), but they were on our way out. When we arrived, it was not crowded at all, but it was by the time we left this area.
From this entrance, we visited one of three major parts of the park, the Skradinski Slap. There is a great, mile or so hike that takes you through the park to a breathtaking view of the falls. It is not like Plitvice, where there are waterfalls everywhere, but the payoff is about as unreal as it gets. We hit all three major parts of the park, and I definitely recommend doing this one first, as it gets the most crowded.
Next, we drove up to Roski Slap, another beautiful but less grand waterfall. In this area, there are a few cute restaurants where you can sit and have a beer under a waterfall. I definitely recommend this. There is also a very strenuous hike of over 100 stairs up to a cave that claims tenants back over 5,000 years. The cave is cool, but the hike is really tough. That said, the view of Roski Slap from above is far more impressive than below, and totally worth it.
The last portion we visited was Visovac Island. Rather than take the boat from Skradin, which can be round trip upwards of four hours, we drove and parked at Stinice, which has a ferry every hour, a ferry that takes only a few minutes. We spent an hour touring the island, which is home to an active monastery. This was a great part of the trip and wonderful way to end our time in Krka.
Split: Even though we didn’t stay in Split, we did take an afternoon to drive in and check out the coastal town. It is very touristy, but also charming in a way very similar to Venice. It is a very old, winding city, and we had a great time exploring and grabbing dinner. If you’ve got the time, I would try not to miss it.
Zagreb: We stayed the capital city of Croatia on our last night. We didn’t have a ton of time there, but we did walk around the downtown area and had a very nice dinner. I can’t really give a great recommendation about it one way or the other, but I enjoyed it far more than I did Ljubljana. It looks like a city moving in the right direction.
Where We Stayed
We spent two nights in Croatia, in two different AirBNBs. Both were very accommodating and both far less expensive than would have been hotel rooms for the five of us. The locations were also only a few minutes drive from the two National Parks.
Where We Ate
Vila Velebita: On the way out of Plitvice, there are plenty of restaurants, we were lucky enough to pick this one. They have a great menu available in multiple languages. We were able to sit outside and have what felt like a very authentically Croatian meal.
Al Dente: This was a very versatile restaurant in Zagreb that had a great menu and great outdoor seating. It is in a really cool location downtown and felt very vibrant.
Croatia was the last leg and to me, most spectacular part of our trip. I know that Eileen and Alyson probably enjoyed Italy more, but I have fallen hard. I am not a fan of visiting places more than once, but if anyone ever wanted to go back, I’d be on the next plane over.
The second leg of our European road trip took us from Northern Italy, through Austria, and into Slovenia. We could have gone straight from Italy into Slovenia, but why not tick Austria off the list. I understand what you’re saying, driving through Austria for a few hours might not really give one the full experience, but we stopped in Villach for about an hour and had a nice pretzel and beer (Charles IM Palais).
From there, we made our way to an AirBNB in Piškovca, just outside of the Lake Bled area. It appears that Slovenia is about to blow up, tourism-wise, similar to the current situation in Croatia, and deservedly so. The area is beautiful, accessible and inexpensive. That said, they are not all that well set up for the volume of people that are coming, and the amount of English spoken is still limited.
Lake Bled seems to be the nexus of the tourism boom in Slovenia, and there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Again, the English is limited, and so is the parking. When we first got to Bled, we spent at least 30 minutes driving around searching. We eventually found the Central Parking lot, which is walking distance to Bled, but it was frustrating. You may also find yourself frustrated that some of the things you want to do will be first come, first serve, and at the pleasure of the locals. A lot can be booked online, but a lot can’t.
Our two days in Slovenia were packed, and they were spectacular. We saw some great things, ate great food and met a lot of cool people. If you’re going this direction, don’t skip this former Yugoslavian state.
What We Did
Vingtar Gorge: When you look up Slovenia on social media, this is one of the first things that will come up. Similar to Watkins Glen, the Gorge is a 1.5 mile cavernous hike along boardwalks that crisscross the Radovna River. It is nothing short of spectacular. The water is a color rarely seen in nature, and the way it has been developed will take your breath away.
Tickets can be purchased in advance, and there is a satellite parking lot that offers free shuttles. I think if you get there early enough, you can park at the actual entrance, but I am not certain. We got to the satellite lot at 8 am and were able to get on the second bus (it should have been the first, but we got screwed).
I do recommend arriving early. For us, the walk was great, but there are a lot of tour groups, and boardwalks can get clogged. I understand that later in the day, it can feel like a bit of a conveyor belt.
Something else to keep in mind is that it’s only a 1.5 mile walk along the river, but it is one way, so you have to get back, either along the River of Trees or the King of Triglav trails. The River of Trees is shorter, and reportedly less scenic. King of Triglav was long and kind of strenuous (and at one point, we thought we were lost), but there are some really nice panoramic views of the area. If I could do it again, I’d take the River of Trees.
Raft the Sava River: Our AirBNB was actually right at the put-in for the rafting outfitters in the Bled area. Our first afternoon there, we took about a three hour total tour with Sava Rafting. The guides are great and a lot of fun with the kids. The river is great, too, with several significant rapids.
Our boat stayed fully intact, but another boat in our group, filled with 20-something Brits, flipped twice. The river is in no way dangerous, or anymore so than any other, but there were definitely some exciting rapids along the scenic route. Our four year old loved it.
Lake Bled: Our second day in Slovenia, we spent time on Lake Bled itself. We had figured out parking, so went to the lake to find a Pletna boat. These are hand-rowed boats that will take you our to Bled Island, evidently the only island in Slovenia.
The ride is fun, but monotonous. After the first few minutes, it’s pretty much the same thing over and over again. I recommend going to the area called ‘PLETNA TO THE ISLAND BLED’ which you can find on your phone. This one is very close to the island, and, at least when we were there, more punctual. We went to a different area, and the guy showed up 45 minutes late and took quite some time getting us there
The island itself is pretty cool. There’s a church with a wishing bell, a museum and a clock tower. It wasn’t my favorite part of our trip, but it is worth doing.
Ljubljana: We made an unplanned stop in the capital of Slovenia, due to some terrible traffic issues. We basically walked around the old parts of the city and got lunch. Frankly, it was my least favorite part of our trip, but it is probably not fair the the Slovenian’s. Had we planned something and not eaten at a tourist trap, we probably would have had a better experience.
Postojna Cave: This was another unplanned stop on our way our of Slovenia, one that I enjoyed much more. The cave tour starts and ends on a train, which is a lot of fun, and the cave has all the classics you could hope want (including what they call a live dragon). Tickets can be purchased ahead of time online and bring a jacket.
Where We Stayed
Piškovca: We staying in an AirBNB just outside of Bled, which was great, as it gave us easy access to the city but was outside of the tourist areas.
Where We Ate
Gostilna Kurej: This is clearly a favorite of locals that was near our AirBNB and was one of the top two meals I had all trip. It was very authentically Slovenian, the food was spectacular and the service couldn’t have been better.
Spica: This is definitely a touristy spot right on Lake Bled. The food was good, and the view was great, but it wasn’t spectacular.
Kavarna Park: This is another touristy spot on Lake Bled, but the view from the balcony is great. The food was fine, but this is where we got our first (and only) taste of Bled Cake. I don’t think it’s actually all that great, but if you’re in Slovenia, you’ve got to try it.
Slovenia was a great stop on our European road trip and really made it feel unique. Vintgar Gorge was definitely one of the top three places we visited, and it feels like it is still off the beaten path. The next and last destination of our trip took us south into Westeros, I mean Croatia.
This year has been filled with a lot of traveling for the Igoes, and our next big plan was (and is) Hawaii, but in the meantime, we decided to sneak in a quick Memorial Day jaunt. None of the Igoes, save yours truly, has ever visited the great state of Kansas, so we tried to come up with a reason to go.
Those who follow closely are aware that my parents live in St. Louis, which is only a four hour drive from Kansas City. You are probably also aware of our proclivity to attend baseball games. What you may not be aware of is that in addition to the Cardinals and Blues, St. Louis has a new Major League Soccer team, St. Louis City SC.
After very little thought, we bought tickets to St. Louis and home from Kansas City, along with tickets to the City game and Royals game. We woke up early on Saturday morning, hopped on a plane and made our way to St. Louis.
The City SC game was that night, so we had about 8 hours to kill prior to kickoff. One of the landmarks of St. Louis is Union Station. Originally an actual train depot, it has gone through many evolutions, but it seems that the current iteration might actually stick.
The old station now has multiple restaurants, mini-golf, a London Eye-style wheel, ropes course, mirror maze and interactive aquarium, amongst other things. We had done a bit in the past, so this time we decided to ride the wheel and play mini-golf. The wheel is pretty cool, and seats up to 8, but the grand view is primarily of nothing. It is fun, and only about 15 minutes, but it doesn’t compare to looking out over the city of London. The mini-golf was also nothing special, but was a fine, albeit expensive, way to spend the morning.
We got the timing just right, and headed down to our favorite area to get lunch in St. Louis, The Hill. This is an old Italian neighborhood with a restaurant on almost every corner. It is great for dinner, but the Italian lunch sandwiches are one of my favorite things about St. Louis.
This go around, we ate at Adriana’s, which was packed. It was my first time there, and while I don’t think it is my favorite spot on The Hill, I would gladly go back five days in a row and enjoy five different sandwiches.
We hung around my parents’ house for a few hours whilst the baby napped, went to Saturday afternoon church at my high school, and headed downtown. If you are going to an SC game, I definitely suggest getting there early. The game didn’t start until 7:30 but the festivities kicked off at 4 pm, which made parking quite difficult.
It probably took us 20 minutes to find a spot, and it was still a solid 15 minute walk to the field. Next time, we would go on ezpass.com and reserve parking ahead of time. The field, City Park, was amazing. It was at capacity, as usual for this inaugural season; a solid 22,000 people.
It doesn’t hurt that the team is brand new and in first place, and the city of St. Louis has gone crazy for them. I say this having attended multiple sporting events, playoff games, championships; this soccer game was the most vibrant environment in which I have seen a game. The entire congregation was on their feet, singing and screaming, for 90 minutes. Again, I am sure it helped that City won the game, but the atmosphere was insane. That said, the prices were also insane, so come prepared, but if you have a chance to catch a game in a place like City Park, I suggest you take it.
The next morning, we left the house before 8 am and headed for Kansas City. It is about a 4 hour drive, and just outside the city itself is Independence, Missouri, home to President Harry Truman. We stopped at the Harry S Truman National Historic Site, which includes a Visitors Center with a nice video and his house, which you can tour. We didn’t actually do the tour, but the video is interesting, and we got another stamp for the kids’ passport books.
The Royals’ game was a 1:10 pm start, so we ate lunch at Kauffman Stadium. If you have never been, Kauffman is pretty cool. Unlike a lot of newer stadiums, Kauffman is outside of the main urban area, but is done really well. It has a lot of amenities, and everyone was quite friendly. We actually got see the Royals hit a walk-off, which was cool, and that puts me up to 11 home stadiums.
Before we ended the day with dinner, we raced over to the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, which may well be the best thing in Kansas City. It is small but packed with great features and information, and fantastic video narrated by James Earl Jones. In terms of a can’t-miss experience, this is at the top of the list.
That night, we ate at the Beer Kitchen, which is exactly what it sounds like, a restaurant with beers. It was quite delicious, kid-friendly and had a great atmosphere.
Now at this point, it might have crossed your mind that as of yet, we still had not actually visited the state of Kansas, as the majority of the experiences in KC reside on the Missouri side. So the morning of Memorial Day, we woke up, crossed the river and drove to Fritz’s Railroad Restaurant. This is a cute little diner with a solid breakfast that is actually delivered by toy trains. It is nothing out of the ordinary, but if you happen to be in the state of Kansas, it is a place to eat.
Our flight home wasn’t until the early afternoon, and we struggled to find something to do with the rest of our day. Kansas City has several waterfalls, but most are not super impressive during this time of year. There is a lot of cool stuff to do in Kansas, but most of it was too far from where we were. We ended up settling upon the St. Rose Phillipine Duchesne Memorial Park and Shrine.
If you are not Catholic, and even then, are not well-acquainted with the Sacred Heart community, this is probably not a good use of your time. That said, my daughters both go to a Sacred Heart institution, and my wife teaches there, so for some of us, this was pretty interesting.
On our way back to Kansas City for our flight home, we stopped at Betty Rae’s Ice Cream, which is just a classic, great place to get a frozen treat. We made it home that day without any difficulty, capping off a great Memorial Day trip.
It was nice for the kids and my wife to cross Kansas off the list, and it was nice to get out of New Orleans for a bit. Next up, the big trip to number five-O, Hawaii.
We decided to follow a similar script as last year for Easter and center our journey around seeing a baseball game. The Cardinals were playing in Milwaukee, and having already visited that unimpressive stadium, we decided to look elsewhere. I was hoping that both the Red Sox and Yankees had home series, but that also was not meant to be.
So where did that leave us? Cleveland…
Cleveland, you say? According to Mark Twain, America has only three great cities: New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.
While it is hard to disagree with America’s greatest novelist, there are actually reasons to visit Ohio’s second largest metropolis, which I shall proceed to detail below.
As in recent years, our eldest ditched us for a Spring Break in Seaside, where one of her drunk friends proceeded to haver at for evidently no reason. My hope is that this experience will lead her to joining us again next year, but we shall see.
So the remaining four us set off for Cleveland on Satuday morning, and arrived just after noon. We were hoping to try Slyman’s Deli, but it is closed on the weekends. Instead, we settled for a wonderful Michael Simon BBQ restaurant called Mabel’s. It’s in a really interesting, revitalized area of downtown, and the food is excellent. At the waitress’s suggestion, we just ordered one large plate of meats and two sides, which was more than enough for our family to share. As far as I can recall, this was my first time eating at the restaurant of an Iron Chef.
In the early afternoon, we drove up to Lake Eerie, the third Great Lake I have seen, and spent about two hours at arguably Cleveland’s most iconic attraction, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. Located by the football stadium on the shores of the lake, this is an impressive building slightly reminiscent of the Louvre.
We purchased tickets ahead of time, and made our way down to the first of six floors. Every leve has its own experiences, from exhibits specific to The Beatles and The Who to the Wall of Plaques to a Pink Floyd’s The Wall theater to a live band karaoke experience.
JR and I agreed that our favorite part was the Hall of Plaques that featured every band or individual inducted, starting in 1986. It actually came as a surprise to both of us that the first class was so recent, but it was very cool to see. My son was disappointed at the lack of Fall Out Boy representation (a feeling I shared in reference to the Gin Blossoms), but eligibility begins 25 years after an artists initial commercial release, so Pete still has a few years to go.
After checking into our hotel, we headed out to Progressive Stadium to watch the Guardians eventually lose to the Brewers. This was the 10th home stadium in which I have seen a game, and I have really enjoyed expanding my baseball horizons. That said, from the outside, the Guardian’s stadium is one of the most unimpressive and downright ugly ballparks I have ever seen.
Fortunately, this was just a poor first impression, because from the inside, the open air complex is quite lovely, a fine place to catch a game. If you are going to see an outdoor game in early April, please prepare appropriately. We all had several lays, including doubled up socks, and hand warmers to get us through 2 and half hours of 40 degree baseball. We were all very thankful for the next accelerated pace of play, as it got us in and out much more efficiently than in years past.
We woke early the next morning for a hotel room Easter celebration and drove over to the Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist for an 8 am service. This building is everything you’d want from a grand cathedral: beautiful high vaulted ceilings, multiple side chapels and wonderful artwork throughout. Some of our past Easter experiences in terms of the service itself have been mediocre, but that was not the case this Sunday. The priest did a fine job of letting the gravity of the day speak for itself instead of adding a whole bunch of unneeded nonsense during the homily.
After finishing up just under an hour, we headed over to Betts for an Easter brunch. Betts is nothing too fancy, or too expensive, but it offers a round menu, and the food was excellent. It was exactly what was needed prior to beginning the second leg of our Ohio trip which would take us into Cuyahoga Valley National Park.
CVNP is perhaps the most uniquely positioned National Park of the current 63. The Arch is directly in the middle of downtown St. Louis, Hot Springs is basically a city in-and-of itself, Saguaro encircles Tucson, but Cuyahoga is by far the most suburban national park that we have visited.
The borders meander, and you’ll find that some of the most interesting sites in the park are within a hundred yards of an interstate or a Pure Barre. If you love the secluded, lost wilderness of the big parks out West, you might not enjoy Cuyahoga, but it is super-accessible and offers some breathtaking experiences, even if you’re only a short walk from the nearest fro-yo stand.
The park is a refuge for native plants and wildlife, and winds along the Cuyahoga River, giving way to deep forests, rolling hills and open farmlands. Our first stop was at the Boston Mills Visitors center to get the lay of the land and get our passport book stamped. At this stage, we were heading into the early afternoon, so our plan was to do just one solid hike before getting dinner.
The first trek we endeavored was the Brandywine Falls Trail, one of the most popular trails in the park. On a beautiful Sunday afternoon, the paths were unsurprisingly crowded, but there are a few notes to help amplify your experience. For one, you don’t actually have to do the hike to see the falls. The falls are located at the end of the loop, which basically starts and ends in the parking lot. If you are not much a hiker, this is a great park, as there are many attractions that can basically be driven to without having to endure the cheap showiness of nature
However, we decided to trek the 1.5 mile trail, which was quite lovely and not particularly strenuous. If you also make this decision, I highly recommend taking the trail in the clockwise direction. This way, you finish with the boardwalks that lead to this amazing waterfall, instead of seeing the payout at the beginning.
The fall itself is quite wonderful, albeit right next to the road, and the system of boardwalks set up around it offer visitors the chance to see the falls from multiple different angles. I think for most folk, if you were just going to do one thing in Cuyahoga, Brandywine Falls would be it.
Before dinner, we had about two hours to kill, so we made use of some of the other sights in Cuyahoga that are not far off the road. The first of which was the Everett Covered Bridge. The area is calm and quiet, and the old fashioned covered bridge is certainly quite quaint.
Another great feature of Cuyahoga, which can include a long walk or a short one from a nearby parking lot, is Deer Lick Cave. This is really more of an overhang than a legit cave, but it is a very impressive feature of this park. We didn’t do the actual hike, but the short version leads to a creek with several small cascades and multiple small alcoves that the kids can explore. It was a great way to end our day in the park.
We struggled that evening finding a place to eat, as most of the restaurants we had researched were closed for Easter. We settled on the Ohio Brewing Company and were not disappointed. Very family friendly, this brew pub offers your standard brewery foods: pretzels, burgers, chicken sandwiches, etc. The food was solid, and the beers were excellent, good enough to bring a couple back to the hotel with us.
That night, we stayed in a Holiday Inn Express in the city of Richfield, one of the suburbs that borders CVNP. The hotel was fine, and there are limited lodging accommodations in the park itself. There is the Brandywine Inn, which looks nice but inexplicably won’t allow visitors under 5 years of age, and the Stanford House, which would have required us to book the entire 9 bedroom building, a bit more than we needed. There are plenty of nearby hotels, and while they don’t offer the experience of actually staying the park, they get the job done.
Our flight home on Monday wasn’t until the evening, and park is less than half an hour from the airport, so we attempted to see as much of the rest of the park as possible. There is a train that can take one throughout the Cuyahoga Valley area, but it was out of service during our stay, so we stuck with the rental car.
Our second day in the park started out back at the Boston Mills Visitors Center, a location which also includes the Blue Hen Falls trail head. This trail is about a 3 mile out and back, relatively strenuous hike. It starts with an arduous ascent up several stairs leading away from the Visitors Center, and included three separate up and downs.
It is a challenging hike, and is often in very close proximity to several main roads, but the payoff is absolutely worth it. As you approach the falls, the traffic noises fade away, and you will find yourself encountering one of the parks wonderfully secluded gems. We started this trek early, so had the run of the falls.
There is a scenic overlook, but if you are adventuresome (and willing to stray a bit off the trail), you can get right to mouth of the falls. This was my favorite part of the trip, and I think JR and Clara spent about half an hour hanging around on the cataract, trying to skip rocks.
We had one more hike that we wanted to attempt, and decided to take only a short break between the two. There was one other brewery that we hoped to sample, and figured that if we knocked out both hikes before 2 pm, we could grab a beer with a late lunch.
The Ledges is the last of the major attractions in Cuyahoga, and is definitely one that you won’t want to miss. This is basically a 2.5 mile lollipop loop from a centrally located parking lot. I strongly recommend taking the loop clockwise as, again, this leaves the most impressive parts of the trail for the end.
The Ledges is a series of interconnecting trails that take hikers up and around a plateau and series of, well, ledges that are quite impressive. Whilst on this trail, be sure that you take the path that goes around the outside of the stone features, called the Octagon. If you stay on top of the plateau, you miss out on a lot of the most interesting features, and have to be below the ledges at the end to experience the Ice Box.
Our last stop in Ohio, aside from the airport, was a brew pub in Peninsula, OH, call the Winking Lizard. This is a cute little brewery in a cute little town that has solid food, good beer and a great atmosphere. It was really a nice way to put an end to our trip.
We really enjoyed Cuyahoga Valley and the Cleveland area. We were in Ohio for less than 72 hours, and this felt like the appropriate amount of time. If we wanted to spend more time in the National Park, it is possible to rent kayaks or horses, but we couldn’t find any guided tours. Given the amount of time we had, I feel like we really maximized our experience.
The Igoes don’t have anything on tap for May, except perhaps visiting a few friends in Fairhope over Memorial Day. The next big ticket on our docket is a late June cruise with Alyson’s family in Hawaii. Stayed tuned as we look to knock out two more National Parks and my fiftieth state.
