Tag: travel

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A California Adventure

On our second and final day in Disneyland, we visited California Adventure, which has fewer rides overall but is more geared towards older park goers. The two parks rotate which one opens half an hour early, so we got in line in time to rope drop and went straight to the Pixar area and got in line for the Cars ride. It’s the one ride in the park that can’t be Lightning Lane’d (unless you pay), so getting there early is a must.

Overall, our five year old did very well with the bigger rides. She was too short to ride the IncrediCoaster, but beyond that, she jumped on everything. We knew we were leaving earlier than the day prior, so we decided not to bother stacking Lightning Lanes, and we still managed to ride everything that was available.

Radiator Springs Racer: This ride is fantastic, but as mentioned, can only be Lightning Lane’d if you pay. We went straight to line and had to wait about 30 minutes, but most of the rest of the day, the line was over 2 hours. I recommend you knock this one out first; it is really well done and a lot of fun.

Golden Zephyr: This is a nice filler ride. It is basically a different take on a classic ‘swing’ ride. It’s fun, and the line is usually pretty short.

Grizzly River Run: This was one of our favorite rides of the day, and we rode multiple times (possibly because the line was usually short). It is a variation on a log flume; you ride in a seven seater tube rather than a canoe. You should expect to get wet, but it’s a lot of fun and the line moves quickly

Guardians of the Galaxy: This is one of California Adventure’s most popular rides. It is basically the Tower of Terror, re-imagined with Rocket Raccoon. Disney did a really good job of incorporating the Guardians theme, and considering what I remember of Tower of Terror, it is far more exhilarating than it is scary, perhaps because it is not mostly indoors.

IncrediCoaster: Evidently, this is a fantastic roller coaster. My wife and older two kids loved it, including my son, who was nervous about the one loop. Clara couldn’t ride, so we spent our time elsewhere, but JR and Eileen managed to get on three times in a short day.

Inside Out Emotional Whirlwind: This is a nice balloon-style swing ride. It is definitely more geared towards the little ones, but the line moves quickly, and it is definitely fun. Clara and I rode it a second time while the big kids went on the roller coaster.

Jessie’s Critter Carousel: This is basically just a standard carousel, which I do not think should be prioritized during a Disney visit, but it did the trick for Clara and I when the big kids were riding elsewhere.

Jumpin’ Jellyfish: This is another fun, filler ride geared towards the little ones. It’s an up and down ride, kind of like a kiddie version of Tower of Terror. Clara loved it, but the big kids skipped it.

Little Mermaid: This ride is fun, but the animatronics feel out of date. Also, the line can get very long, and I do not feel it is worth an hour long wait. We got to it early and didn’t have to wait at all, but we didn’t go back in the afternoon when it got slammed.

Monster’s Inc: We Lightning Lane’d this one, and I thought it was fun. You are basically zipping through the Monster’s world. I wouldn’t put it at the top of our list or say it’s a must ride, but the animation is really good.

Soarin’ Around the World: This is a pretty cool ride that simulates flying all over the world. It’s lovely and fun, but not particularly exhilarating, and the line was always super long.

Toy Story Midway Mania: This is a classic shooter, spinning ride. It was a little difficult for Clara, as the concept was a bit above her, but the big kids thought it was worth the relatively short wait.

We were unable to ride Webslingers and Goofy, due to them being shut down most of the day. This, evidently, is not all that rare, so you can’t let it get you down. You’ve got to just make the best of it.

We had a great time at California Adventure, and I think the big kids’ favorite ride was the IncrediCoaster. That, there seemed to be more to do in Magic Kingdom, so overall, I think we preferred that.

From here, we went back to the classic Igoe trip and drove East out of LA en route to Joshua Tree. I’ll cover that next, but just want to leave with the thought that though Disney is expensive and hectic, it is a lot of fun, and the Disneyland experience can definitely be done in two packed days.

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A Magical Kingdom for New Years

For those of you who have been waiting patiently, we are back. After a hiatus from personal travel plans in order to focus on family events, like Parents’ Weekend at UK, Thanksgiving and Christmas, the Traveling Igoes finally got back on the road. Since our kids’ new schools all have different Fall breaks, we were unable to take the usual fall trip. To supplement, we took a trip over the Christmas break, New Years in particular. It is a busy time to travel, but we had a great experience and will likely continue it for at leas the near future.

This year, we jetted from New Orleans to southern California and took on Disneyland and Joshua Tree NP. For the purposes of the blog, I am going to break the trip into three posts, so for all two of you that are following along, you’re welcome.

We left Louisiana in the evening on New Years Eve and made it to our hotel in Disneyland (Frontier Tower of the Disneyland Hotel) at about 7 pm. We had reservation at Goofy’s Kitchen for 8:30, hoping that would give us enough time to get settled and to dinner (which it did).

We made a reservation, but it was still kind of first come, first serve anyway. It’s hard to explain; it is worth it to make the reservation in advance, but you should still be prepared to wait. The food at Goofy’s is served buffet style (except the beer) and is actually pretty good (for a buffet). From pizza to chicken to pasta to desserts, we all found something we wanted to eat, and at these prices, you’ll want to go back for as many servings as you can stomach. For five of us, including tip, it was almost $500, but you’ve got to go into a Disney trip knowing that you’ll be taking a hit.

The best part of Goofy’s Kitchen was watching our five year old interact with the characters. She is just the right age and was hilarious telling Pluto that he is a good boy and telling Minnie that she will keep this day in her heart forever. Yeah, it cost a shit-ton of for basically cafeteria food, but seeing Clara’s reactions was worth (almost) every penny.

I am not going to delve too much deeper into the food. The rest of the days in the park, we pretty much just ate on the go. My eldest discovered (via TikTok) that the best way to maximize your ride time is to order food online through the Disneyland App so that there is no waiting, and she was right. The food in the parks is still expensive, but much less so than the actual ‘formal’ restaurants.

Now to the important part, the rides. For this entry, we’ll focus on just the rides in Magic Kingdom. On our first day, this was our stop. We went early, as this park rotates with California Adventure as to which opens half an hour earlier. We got in line in time to rope drop, which probably got us one or two extra rides. We also purchased the upgraded Lightning Lane tickets, which allows you to skip (most of) the line for certain rides once/day.

One suggestion I make before we dive into the rides is that you figure out how to stack your Lightning Lanes. It is basically, starting with one, then pushing it all the way back to the end of your day, then filling in the afternoon as your day goes. If you’re interested, I suggest you have your teen watch several TikToks about it and handle it for you. Now, for what we rode:

Space Mountain: We hit this first, right after rope drop, and were lucky enough to be able to ride it again later in the day. What an awesome roller coaster! It is smooth, fast and fun. Most of us, including the five year old, thought it was the best ride of the day. The older kids, who stayed until close, rode it a third time. Go early though, and check often, as this line can get over two hours long.

Dumbo: This is the classic Disney attraction. It is not all that thrilling, but the lines are not usually terrible, Clara loved it, and even the older kids had a good time.

Jungle Cruise: I love the Jungle Cruise. This 8 minute ride that usually comes with a 30 minute wait is probably only worth doing once, but it is fun to cruise around, see the animatronics and listen to the guide’s non-sense.

Pirates of the Caribbean: This is another classic that didn’t fail to deliver. The big kids rode it twice, since they stayed late, but we all loved it. Clara was a little scared, but at the end, she said she had a great time. This is another one to get to early, as the lines get super long.

Haunted Mansion: We were there for the Christmas theme, which is A Nightmare Before Christmas, which is not actually as fun as the classic theme, but it was still a good time. The animations are great. This line gets long, but not quite as quickly, so prioritize it for the morning, but after rides like Space Mountain and Pirates.

Indiana Jones: This was the one ride in Magic Kingdom for which Clara was too short (48 inches), so Alyson and the big kids rode, and loved it. Again, go and wait in the morning, then Lightning Lane in the afternoon. While Clara and I waited, we played around the Swiss Family Treehouse. It’s actually not called that anymore, but it was very age appropriate.

Big Thunder Mountain: This is a classic that we did not get to in the morning, but Lightning Lane’d at night. It’s bumpy, but a lot of fun. At nighttime, it is really cool; you get a great view of the entire park lit up.

It’s a Small World: This might be an unpopular opinion, but I think I hate this ride. You wait in line interminably to listen the same fucking song thirteen times in a row. I know it’s a classic, but I could certainly live without it. The best part of Small World is when they light up the outside at night.

Tiana’s Bayou: Absolutely awesome! This is the reworking of Splash Mountain, and it is fantastic. The ride itself is a lot of fun (but prepare to get wet), and Disney has done a great integrating the Princess and Frog theme. This is another one to ride early, then stack a Lightning Lane for the afternoon.

Peter Pan: This is another classic that always has a long line and cannot be Lightning Lane’d. Walt said this was his favorite ride, which perhaps is why the line always 45 minutes-plus, but it is worth it, if only for nostalgia purposes.

Winnie-the-Pooh: This is a fun, filler ride, especially for the little ones. It’s a great one to knock out while you are waiting for your next Lightning Lane to come up.

Mad Tea Party: This is another good filler ride that usually has short lines. I made the point that if we were going to skip anything, it out to be the tea cups, as they are not unique to Disney, but I lost that argument.

King Arthur Carousel: Cut and paste Tea Party comments.

Autopia: This is a fun one. The line is usually long, but not so long that you’d want the Lightning it. The younger kids think they are actually driving, even though there is little one can do to actually control the cars other than take one’s foot on and off the gas.

Buzz Lightyear’s Astro Blasters: This is one of the interactive rides where the car comes with two ‘blasters’ that you can use to rack up points shooting aliens. I believe we used a Lightning Lane for this in the late morning after we had stacked all the big rides for the PM.

Casey Jr. Circus Train: This was the last ride Alyson, Clara and I did, at around 9 pm, after they had closed off some rides for the parade. It is definitely geared towards the little ones (JR and Eileen) never rode it, but it could be a good filler ride depending on wait times. I think it’s really cute, and the mini-Disney landscape it traverses is quite well done.

Storybook Land Canal Boats: This boat ride basically traverses the same route as the above train, but it is well done and great for little kids, or great as a filler between the big rides.

Matterhorn: This is another one that we Lightning Lane’d in the PM, and that the big kids did again after 10 pm. The ride is a lot of fun. It was a little bumpy for Clara, but she powered through, and it also gives great views of the park lit up at night.

Smuggler’s Run: This is a new ride in the Star Wars area, which is really a cool part of the park. This ride is not as busy as it’s counterpart mentioned below, so you should to try to hop on when you can. It’s fun, but might not blow your mind like Rise.

Rise of Resistance: This is currently the ride in Magic Kingdom that usually has the longest lines. It can be Lightning Lane’d, but only if you pay $15-$35/person. This will likely change once it is not so new, but as of now, you can try to get there early, but it opens half an hour later than the rest of the park, wait 90 minutes (at least) or pay. We pulled the trigger and paid. It was worth it.

Pinocchio: This is a good filler ride, as the line moves fast, but it is kind of creepy. Clara was holding tight to an adult the whole time.

Roger Rabbit: This was by far the worst experience of our whole trip. The ride is ok, but the line was interminable. It wasn’t all that long, but it barely moved. If I could have that hour of my life back, I’d take it.

Star Wars: The Adventure Continues: This is an older Star Wars ride in a different area. It is not that great, but it is right by Space Mountain, so if you can hit that early, then get straight on this one, you’ve knocked out two rides in quick fashion.

We didn’t make it to Mr. Toad, as when we went, it was closed due to the parade. Something to keep in mind in the later evening. We also never made it on Alice in Wonderland, as it was shut down all day. Astro Orbitor also never made the list, but it is basically the same thing as Dumbo. We did catch fireworks at 9:30, then Alyson and I put Clara to bed while JR and Eileen cruised the park, hitting about 4 rides/hour in the last minutes before close.

I feel like we did everything we could to maximize our one day, and I don’t really feel like we missed out. Starting early and stacking Lightning Lanes seems to be the way to go, and this was a busy time of year. If you do the research and have a good outline as to your plans for the day, you should be able to get to every ride you want, and several rides more than once.

Next stop, California Adventure.

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Sleeping with a Bear

This year, for the annual Igoe Family Vacation, we met up with my parents and brothers in Arcadia, Michigan, which is about an hour south of Traverse City and in the general Sleeping Bear Dunes area. Michigan is always a relaxing trip, and there is a lot to do, but it does include a lot of driving. It is worth it though, the temperatures are moderate and there’s a lot to do.

What We Did

Sleeping Bear Dunes: This National Lakeshore offers a plethora of activities. Of places that we have visited recently, this one felt the most like it could or should be a National Park, not just a Lakeshore. There are lots of trails, lots of dunes, lots of lakes and a few associated satellite areas.

The first thing we did was take the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive and stopped at marker #4 and hiked the Cottonwood Trail. This 1.5 mile lollipop loop takes you to the top of the large dune that’s part of the dune challenge without having to hike up it. The view point at the top is great, and it is doable for those less physically able to climb a vertical sand dune. We recommend taking the loop clockwise, and also recommend stopping at markers 3, 9 and 11, if you’ve got the time.

Later on, we walked the Empire Bluffs Trail, which offers great views of Lake Michigan and several surrounding lakes. It is an easy, 1.6 mile out-and-back. Honestly, it is not spectacular, but it was worth the drive.

Our favorite trail was Pyramid Point. This loop is just under 3 miles and offers a great variety of scenery: dunes, woods, meadows and lakes. It is not very strenuous if you go clockwise. That said, the best lake views are at the beginning, but you go down all the steep dunes climbs, instead of up.

Speaking of, we also recommend the Dune Climb. This steep dune is the start to the Dune Challenge, which we did not do, but is a fun trek in and of itself. The kids really enjoyed rolling around and getting all sandy.

Boat Glen Lake: We booked a pontoon boat that could hold 14 from the On the Narrows Marina. We spent four hours cruising around Big Glen and Little Glen, tubing and swimming at several different spots. It made for a really fun day that all the kids loved.

Swim at Crystal Lake: There is a great public beach with amenities in the Beulah area of Crystal Lake. The waters is chilly, but not so much as Lake Michigan. The big lake is almost too cold to swim, but the interior lakes are bit more moderate.

Tube the Platte River: We used Crystal Lake Outfitters to tube the Platte River, and we did the longer version, which took about 3 hours from arrival to leaving. The Platte River is great to float, and the outfitter was competent, but it did feel like it took a long time to get started.

Craig’s Cruisers: On morning, we went south towards Shelby, MI, where some of my family used to attend camp. On the way, the kids, Alyson and I stopped at Craig’s Cruisers. They’ve got go-karts, bumper boats, mini-golf, a zip line, a roller coaster and an arcade. The kids had a blast, and it was a lot less expensive than you expect those activities to be.

Mac Woods Dune Rides: Also south of Aracadia, this dune tour was way more fun than I thought it would be. It opens at 9:30, but we didn’t get there until about 2 pm, which was a mistake. The had to wait over an hour for the 40 minute ride, but it was totally worth it. You might think it’s not that exciting, since your basically in an open-air bus rather than a dune buggy, but the ride is great. There’s lots of up and downs, lots of great views and the guide was really informative.

E-Bike Tour: My son’s favorite activity was riding about 8 miles along the Leelanau Trail north of Traverse City. I was a little unsure as to whether or not I’d enjoy an e-bike, but it was a lot of fun, and it is still good exercise.

Brewery Tours: There are dozens of breweries in the general area, and it feels like we tried to hit them all. We’ll touch base more on this in the section below.

Where We Ate

Storm Cloud Brewing: This was the closest brewery to our house, it was good, but it wasn’t our favorite. The pizza was solid, and the beer was fine, but I didn’t love the atmosphere. It felt really crowded and touristy. It was still certainly worth the visit, and I’d go back, but it wasn’t #1.

Hop Lot Brewing: I think this was my favorite brewery. It has really good beer, solid food and fantastic outdoors space that the kids loved.

Boondocks: This restaurant in Glen Arbor gets really mediocre reviews, but I thought it was just fine. We were able to sit all 13 of us outside, the fried fish sandwich was good and the beer was cold.

Cherry Point Farm Market: This farmers market reportedly has good sandwiches, but I could not disagree more. The entire experience was terrible, including the service and the food. It is basically just a grilled cheese restaurant, but it takes forever, and it costs way too much.

North Channel Brewing: This brewery was a great place to stop on our back north from the dune rides. They were friendly, had good beer and had a pretzel, about which Jr was over the moon.

St. Ambrose Cellars/Brose Brewing: This stop actually started out as place that brews meads but has expanded, including beers and food. The mead was really interesting, and the outdoor space is wonderful. You can even get a close look at a commercial beehive, if so include.

Where We Stayed:

This year, we stayed at an AirBNB in Arcadia, Michigan, which is about half an hour south of Sleeping Bear and an hour south of Traverse City. The house was great, and right on Lake Michigan, but it was a trek to get to just about everywhere. Given the choice, I think we would stay in either Empire or Traverse City itself in the future.

This is the first time in quite some time that we don’t actually have anything planned. We’ll be meeting some friends in Gulf Shores for Labor Day and visiting St. Louis for Thanksgiving, but those are old hat. With Eileen starting at UK in the fall, and JR starting high school, our calendar is in limbo. We might try to take a short weekend to see a ball game, maybe somewhere like Pittsburgh. We also are considering a Christmas break trip, maybe someplace to the south. We’ll keep traveling and will keep you posted; thanks for listening.

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EuroTrip 2025

If you’ve been following along, you know that for our daughter’s high school graduation, we took the whole family across the pond for a road trip through Europe. We hit Italy, Austria, Slovenia and Croatia, and all were fantastic. If you want more details about the trip itself, please reference our three previous posts. This post is really going to speak more about what we learned, what surprised us and what we found out along the way.

Currency: Prior to heading over, we exchanged $615 for 500 Euros. I thought we would need more cash in some of the smaller towns, but we really didn’t, It was nice to have the cash, and since we had it, we used it, but we could have gone with less. That said, we didn’t have to pay any foreign transaction fees when we payed with Euros. Something else to keep in mind is that tipping is a relatively American creation. Eating out is a lot less expensive when you don’t have to add 15 to 25%.

Credit Card Fees: Unless you have a certain type of credit card, expect to pay foreign transactions fees on almost everything purchase you make. At the hotels, we put charges on our room, to minimize the fees, but there is only so much you can do.

Language Barrier: In Italy, almost everyone spoke English, if not fluently. This was not the case in Austria, Slovenia or Croatia. We never really struggled to communicate, as generally speaking, someone spoke English, but it was far more ubiquitous in Italy. If you’re linguistically gifted, you can download several languages on Google Translate, which will even pronounce most words for you. We had very little difficulty communicating, overall.

International Flights with Kids: Our kids are great at traveling, but an 8+ hour flight is a long one. British Airways does offer free drinks and food, so that’s something. About an hour into both the flight there and back, we gave the two younger kids melatonin gummies. I am not giving any type of medical advice, but this knocked them both out within minutes.

Driving: This was one of the more nerve-wracking parts of the trip, going in. It turned out not to be too bad. Much of the time, we were on smaller highways but had very little difficulty. It is worth keeping in mind that traffic, especially in Italy and Slovenia, can get really backed up. We used Google Maps, which allows one to download directions in advance. We also used Apple Maps from time-to-time, which was helpful. Waze is not nearly as helpful in Europe as it is in the U.S.

International Driving Permit: We got one of these from AAA prior to going. It only cost about $20, but I am not sure we needed it. No one asked for it, neither at the rental car pick up or any border crossings. Had we gotten into an accident or been pulled over, perhaps it would have been necessary.

Driving Vignettes: If you look online at the requirements needed to drive in countries like Slovenia and Croatia, you’ll get info stating that you need something called Vignettes in place of having to pay tolls. This was honestly not super clear. We bought one at a gas station after crossing into Slovenia, for like 10 euros, and got another for Croatia online. No one ever asked for them, but again, we weren’t really stopped, so it’s hard to say how necessary they are.

Border Crossings: We weren’t stopped at a single border crossing, as all the countries were visited are EU members. We did consider a quick hop into Bosnia and Herzegovina, but that is not a member country, and we were worried it would be too much of a hassle or that they might not actually let us in.

ETAs/ETIAS: Whilst researching our trip, we came across info that stated we would need Electronic Transit Authorizations for several areas in Europe. This is not yet the case, but evidently, will be in the future. Do not buy one from a third party website, like I did. There are already fake sites available, so be careful.

Housing: We found AirBNBs a lot easier than hotels. Europeans can be very fickle about the number of people staying in a room, so renting from individuals was easier. We were even quite late for several check-ins, but all of the hosts were very accommodating.

Our trip was amazing and exhausting, and I hope that it created great memories for our kids. We actually have plans to return to Europe next year for a river cruise out of Germany, but until then, we’ll be back to exploring our local 50.

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Croatia (Eurotrip Leg 3)

For the third and final leg of our European adventure, we moved south out of Slovenia and into the country that I had been anticipating the most, Croatia. Croatia has recently blown up as a tourist destination and is more able to handle it than was Slovenia, but it was still crowded. Compared to Italy, much like Slovenia, it was very affordable.

Most who visit Croatia go for the Mediterranean beaches, which are beautiful, but that was not our target. We did hit up Split for a few hours, but the majority of our time was spent visiting two of the most spectacular National Parks I have ever seen.

What We Did

Plitvice National Park: If you Google Croatia, images from Plitvice are some of the most frequent you will find. When traveling like this, it is always a worry that the real thing won’t live up to the social media hype. I was pleasantly surprised. I can safely say that Plitvice is one of the most spectacular places I have ever been, if not the most.

Plitvice is a waterfall lovers paradise. It is simply one spectacular fall after another, with beautiful greenery and strikingly blue lakes in between. We bought tickets in advance and arrived early, both a must, and set out from Entrance 1 (the north entrance) following the signs for Program C.

Program C is 3+ miles long, and kind of uphill, but the trek is mostly along well developed boardwalks. About halfway in, you’ll get to spot where you can either go left and walk around a lake or go right and take a boat. We went right and took the boat, but we had to wait over half an hour for the boat.

At the end, we took a shuttle back, but if we had more time, I would have wanted to walk back. It would have been another 3 or so miles, but would have been mostly downhill, and we’d have gotten to see everything again.

This park can definitely be done in less than a full day, but I could probably have spent a week there. Several of the features are closed, and don’t appear likely to re-open anytime soon, including the caves and the hike up to the Veliki Slap Viewpoint. You can drive to this locale, however, using the coordinates 44°54’9″ N 15°36’27” E.

If you get there early, you will have company, but for us, it was not terribly crowded. It is really hard to describe how wonderful is Plitvice; I should simply say that if you’re in the area, it should not be missed. If you are pressed for time, go north to south. Going the opposite direction will have you looking over your shoulder the whole time.

Krka National Park: Only slightly less amazing is Krka, the more southern of the two water wonderlands. Whilst Krka is not as vast as Plitvice, it has some equally spectacular areas and is more spread out.

Since we had our own car, we entered through the Lozovac entrance. To find this, just go to the city of Lozovac and follow the signs. This option allows you to bus or walk in, whereas the Skradin entrance requires a boat. The boat might actually be easier but allows far less flexibility.

At the Lozovac entrance, we took the bus, about a 10 minute ride in. At the bus stop, there are plenty of restrooms and restaurants. They were not open when we arrived at 8 (get there early), but they were on our way out. When we arrived, it was not crowded at all, but it was by the time we left this area.

From this entrance, we visited one of three major parts of the park, the Skradinski Slap. There is a great, mile or so hike that takes you through the park to a breathtaking view of the falls. It is not like Plitvice, where there are waterfalls everywhere, but the payoff is about as unreal as it gets. We hit all three major parts of the park, and I definitely recommend doing this one first, as it gets the most crowded.

Next, we drove up to Roski Slap, another beautiful but less grand waterfall. In this area, there are a few cute restaurants where you can sit and have a beer under a waterfall. I definitely recommend this. There is also a very strenuous hike of over 100 stairs up to a cave that claims tenants back over 5,000 years. The cave is cool, but the hike is really tough. That said, the view of Roski Slap from above is far more impressive than below, and totally worth it.

The last portion we visited was Visovac Island. Rather than take the boat from Skradin, which can be round trip upwards of four hours, we drove and parked at Stinice, which has a ferry every hour, a ferry that takes only a few minutes. We spent an hour touring the island, which is home to an active monastery. This was a great part of the trip and wonderful way to end our time in Krka.

Split: Even though we didn’t stay in Split, we did take an afternoon to drive in and check out the coastal town. It is very touristy, but also charming in a way very similar to Venice. It is a very old, winding city, and we had a great time exploring and grabbing dinner. If you’ve got the time, I would try not to miss it.

Zagreb: We stayed the capital city of Croatia on our last night. We didn’t have a ton of time there, but we did walk around the downtown area and had a very nice dinner. I can’t really give a great recommendation about it one way or the other, but I enjoyed it far more than I did Ljubljana. It looks like a city moving in the right direction.

Where We Stayed

We spent two nights in Croatia, in two different AirBNBs. Both were very accommodating and both far less expensive than would have been hotel rooms for the five of us. The locations were also only a few minutes drive from the two National Parks.

Where We Ate

Vila Velebita: On the way out of Plitvice, there are plenty of restaurants, we were lucky enough to pick this one. They have a great menu available in multiple languages. We were able to sit outside and have what felt like a very authentically Croatian meal.

Al Dente: This was a very versatile restaurant in Zagreb that had a great menu and great outdoor seating. It is in a really cool location downtown and felt very vibrant.

Croatia was the last leg and to me, most spectacular part of our trip. I know that Eileen and Alyson probably enjoyed Italy more, but I have fallen hard. I am not a fan of visiting places more than once, but if anyone ever wanted to go back, I’d be on the next plane over.

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Lake Bled (EuroTrip Stop 2)

The second leg of our European road trip took us from Northern Italy, through Austria, and into Slovenia. We could have gone straight from Italy into Slovenia, but why not tick Austria off the list. I understand what you’re saying, driving through Austria for a few hours might not really give one the full experience, but we stopped in Villach for about an hour and had a nice pretzel and beer (Charles IM Palais).

From there, we made our way to an AirBNB in Piškovca, just outside of the Lake Bled area. It appears that Slovenia is about to blow up, tourism-wise, similar to the current situation in Croatia, and deservedly so. The area is beautiful, accessible and inexpensive. That said, they are not all that well set up for the volume of people that are coming, and the amount of English spoken is still limited.

Lake Bled seems to be the nexus of the tourism boom in Slovenia, and there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Again, the English is limited, and so is the parking. When we first got to Bled, we spent at least 30 minutes driving around searching. We eventually found the Central Parking lot, which is walking distance to Bled, but it was frustrating. You may also find yourself frustrated that some of the things you want to do will be first come, first serve, and at the pleasure of the locals. A lot can be booked online, but a lot can’t.

Our two days in Slovenia were packed, and they were spectacular. We saw some great things, ate great food and met a lot of cool people. If you’re going this direction, don’t skip this former Yugoslavian state.

What We Did

Vingtar Gorge: When you look up Slovenia on social media, this is one of the first things that will come up. Similar to Watkins Glen, the Gorge is a 1.5 mile cavernous hike along boardwalks that crisscross the Radovna River. It is nothing short of spectacular. The water is a color rarely seen in nature, and the way it has been developed will take your breath away.

Tickets can be purchased in advance, and there is a satellite parking lot that offers free shuttles. I think if you get there early enough, you can park at the actual entrance, but I am not certain. We got to the satellite lot at 8 am and were able to get on the second bus (it should have been the first, but we got screwed).

I do recommend arriving early. For us, the walk was great, but there are a lot of tour groups, and boardwalks can get clogged. I understand that later in the day, it can feel like a bit of a conveyor belt.

Something else to keep in mind is that it’s only a 1.5 mile walk along the river, but it is one way, so you have to get back, either along the River of Trees or the King of Triglav trails. The River of Trees is shorter, and reportedly less scenic. King of Triglav was long and kind of strenuous (and at one point, we thought we were lost), but there are some really nice panoramic views of the area. If I could do it again, I’d take the River of Trees.

Raft the Sava River: Our AirBNB was actually right at the put-in for the rafting outfitters in the Bled area. Our first afternoon there, we took about a three hour total tour with Sava Rafting. The guides are great and a lot of fun with the kids. The river is great, too, with several significant rapids.

Our boat stayed fully intact, but another boat in our group, filled with 20-something Brits, flipped twice. The river is in no way dangerous, or anymore so than any other, but there were definitely some exciting rapids along the scenic route. Our four year old loved it.

Lake Bled: Our second day in Slovenia, we spent time on Lake Bled itself. We had figured out parking, so went to the lake to find a Pletna boat. These are hand-rowed boats that will take you our to Bled Island, evidently the only island in Slovenia.

The ride is fun, but monotonous. After the first few minutes, it’s pretty much the same thing over and over again. I recommend going to the area called ‘PLETNA TO THE ISLAND BLED’ which you can find on your phone. This one is very close to the island, and, at least when we were there, more punctual. We went to a different area, and the guy showed up 45 minutes late and took quite some time getting us there

The island itself is pretty cool. There’s a church with a wishing bell, a museum and a clock tower. It wasn’t my favorite part of our trip, but it is worth doing.

Ljubljana: We made an unplanned stop in the capital of Slovenia, due to some terrible traffic issues. We basically walked around the old parts of the city and got lunch. Frankly, it was my least favorite part of our trip, but it is probably not fair the the Slovenian’s. Had we planned something and not eaten at a tourist trap, we probably would have had a better experience.

Postojna Cave: This was another unplanned stop on our way our of Slovenia, one that I enjoyed much more. The cave tour starts and ends on a train, which is a lot of fun, and the cave has all the classics you could hope want (including what they call a live dragon). Tickets can be purchased ahead of time online and bring a jacket.

Where We Stayed

Piškovca: We staying in an AirBNB just outside of Bled, which was great, as it gave us easy access to the city but was outside of the tourist areas.

Where We Ate

Gostilna Kurej: This is clearly a favorite of locals that was near our AirBNB and was one of the top two meals I had all trip. It was very authentically Slovenian, the food was spectacular and the service couldn’t have been better.

Spica: This is definitely a touristy spot right on Lake Bled. The food was good, and the view was great, but it wasn’t spectacular.

Kavarna Park: This is another touristy spot on Lake Bled, but the view from the balcony is great. The food was fine, but this is where we got our first (and only) taste of Bled Cake. I don’t think it’s actually all that great, but if you’re in Slovenia, you’ve got to try it.

Slovenia was a great stop on our European road trip and really made it feel unique. Vintgar Gorge was definitely one of the top three places we visited, and it feels like it is still off the beaten path. The next and last destination of our trip took us south into Westeros, I mean Croatia.

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Venezia e le Dolomiti

This year, my eldest graduate from high school (a remarkable accomplishment completed by almost everyone). To celebrate, we decided to trade states for countries and set off on a road trip through Europe.

For the purposes of keeping this readable, I am going to break our trip into three different legs, the first of which began in Venice. We flew out of New Orleans on BA at almost 10 pm, landing the next day in London, and then the next night in Venice. This gave us two and half days to spend in Italy before we headed to out next stop, Slovenia.

What We Did:

St. Mark’s Basilica: We got into Venice early on Sunday. We drove in and parked at one of the lots right across the bridge from the mainland. St. Mark’s has a 10:00 AM service, which we attended. It is definitely High Mass, and my Italian was lacking, but it was a cool experience. The church is stunning, but it is not as restored as you might think. It feels like they are letting time run its course, whereas in the US, it feels like things would be brighter.

A few things to keep in mind. First, if you plan to get there for Church, get there early as it fills up fast. Second, you have to have your knees and shoulders covered. I thought Eileen was fine, but the attendant made her wrap a raincoat around her legs. It seemed very subjective, but it is something about which you should be aware. It is definitely worth it, if you get the chance.

Doge Palace: Our next stop was the Doge Palace, the traditional ruling seat of the Venetian government. We bought skip-the-line passes ahead of time, which is definitely the way to go. The Palace is cool, especially the upstairs, where there are multiple rooms covered with great artwork. The attached prison, including The Bridge of Sighs, is also a must-see. The Palace was a great experience, but if we’d missed it, I wouldn’t be losing any sleep.

Gondola Ride: You’d be crazy to go to Venice and not ride a Gondola. We booked ours ahead of time on Get Your Guide, which made things easy. It was fun, but it was also hot as can be, and it gets a bit monotonous.

Lago di Braies: This was our first stop in the Dolomites, the Italian portion of the Alps. You worry that stuff you see online won’t live up to the photos, but Lago di Braies did not disappoint. Get there early to get parking, get the row boat and spend an hour on the lake. It is beautiful, pristine and awe-inspiring. As you row around the lake, take it all in and don’t let the vibrant colors overwhelm you. Also, don’t spend all your time taking picture; just enjoy the moments.

Ortisei: From there, we drove to Ortisei and took two cable cars up to Secada. The ride up is a lot fun, and there is a cool restaurant at the top. Beyond that, there are several trails that lead to stunning views. You can do as much or as little as you like, but getting up into the clean, crisp air feels fantastic.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo: This was my favorite part of the Dolomites. We got up early and drove the Rifugio Auronzo, which requires prepaid parking. We set out from the Rifugio, counter-clockwise, on the 5+ mile hike around the three peaks. The views are breathtaking throughout, although the hike is no joke.

There are several huts along the way where you can stop, use restrooms and even buy food but not all of them were open when we were there. You also have to make the decision as to which direction to walk. There is one really strenuous park, regardless of which way you go. Clockwise, you go down a very steep hill and have to walk up the switch backs. If you go opposite, you go down the switch backs and up a very aggressive incline. I loathe switch backs, so we did the latter, but both seemed tough.

This is one of the most spectacular hikes I have ever taken, and I cannot recommend it more strongly.

Where We Stayed

Crown Plaza East: When we landed outside of Venice, we just got a hotel room in an IHG property near the airport. It was nothing special, but the people were really nice, the on-site restaurant was good and the drinks were cold.

Falzes: In the Dolomites, we stayed in a great AirBnB in the Falzes (Pfalzen). It was a great location, near several restaurants and close enough to what we wanted to do. Keep in mind, though, that when traveling in the Dolomites, nothing is all that close together.

Where We Ate

St. Mark’s Square: On our way into Venice, we passed like 100 restaurants, but we decided to eat in St. Mark’s Square itself. The are is really cool and vibrant, but the food and prices are very touristy. I can’t even remember the name of the actual restaurant.:

Ristourante Piazzale Platzl: This was in the Falzes area, about 15 minutes from our house, and was fantastic. We got three pastas and a pizza, and everyone was thrilled. The service was great, and the wine was cheap and fresh. I do not really enjoy wine, but in Italy, it is so inexpensive and so local, it is hard to pass.

Reinzbrau: This area has as many German speakers as it does Italian, so we found a lot of German food as well. This spot was ok, but honestly, was my least favorite meal of the whole trip. Everything was fine, but it was nothing special.

This was such an amazing start to our Eurotrip, and I feel like I am under-selling it. Venice was fun to see, but the Dolomites were the real star. What a spectacular place to spend a few days. We could have stayed a week and never gotten bored.

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A Gay Old Thanksgiving in Dallas

This post is a bit outside of our normal nature-based adventures, but for those interested in a more urban holiday, it might be of value. This year, we went with my wife’s family to the Gaylord in Grapevine, TX, which is north east of Dallas.

We did something similar in Austin, two years prior, at Kalahari, and having now done a ‘resort’-based holiday twice now, I believe that I have a better perspective. The general consensus was that the Gaylord experience was far superior. It is not as much of an amusement park atmosphere, but it felt much more like the holidays.

What We Did

Cowboys v. Giants: This is really the main reason we went. My son has become a huge Cowboys fan, despite their play on the field, and it felt like a bucket list moment to go to Jerry World on Thanksgiving. The Cowboys won, which improved the atmosphere, but the stadium is the real star. Having been to dozens of sporting events and venues across the country, I can say without doubt that AT&T is the most amazing stadium in which I have ever watched a game. It doesn’t have the character of a Wrigley or Green Bay, but it a remarkable achievement.

ICE!: The Gaylord puts together multiple Christmas activities for all ages. We went indoor sledding, ice skating met with Santa. The best thing we did, though, is an exhibit called ICE! where the creator makes elaborate ice sculptures and scenes from beloved Christmas stories. At the Gaylord in Grapevine, the theme was Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer, and they did an awesome job. I do suggest that if you plan to partake, you dress warmly, including gloves. You will be provided with a parka, but it is just about 9 degrees, so layers definitely help.

Visit Oklahoma (and the Eiffel Tower): In order to spend time with some of my wife’s extended family, we also drove to Paris, TX. Paris is less than two hours from Dallas, and less than 20 minutes from Oklahoma. This was the second time that I have been to Oklahoma, and it was the same trip, right across the border, both times. I would love to spend more time in the Sooner State, as there appear to be some great things to do, but this checks the list for the kids. Paris also boasts its own Eiffel Tower, complete with cowboy hat. If you’re in the area, it is a can’t miss.

Thanksgiving is a great kick-off to the holiday season, and if I had the chance to spend it at the Gaylord again, I would. I recommend making dinner and breakfast reservations on nights when you know your plans in advance and bringing layers for the winter adventures, and it’ll be a great time.

Next up for the Traveling Igoes, a Christmas visit to St. Louis. It will likely not be accompanied by a blog post, but you never know. Moving into 2025, we’ve got a lot on the menu, including a trip to the Bahamas and to Michigan, but first, for Mardi Gras, we’ll be hitting up the elusive Virgin Islands National Park. Check back soon…

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Great Basin, Great Vacation

This year for Fall Break, we decided to head back to Nevada (our third time this year) to explore one of the country’s lesser visited National Parks, Great Basin. The park is over four hours from Vegas and three hours from Salt Lake. Flights being what they were, we flew into LAS, rented a car and headed north.

Aside from the travel arrangements, another reason we flew into Las Vegas was that Cathedral Gorge State Park is on the drive up. In the west, one must keep in mind that there are a plethora of state parks, some as impressive as their National Park neighbors.

What We Did

Cathedral Gorge State Park: we drove up Friday night and hit the park the next morning. We only spent about four hours there, which was enough, and it was a great four hours.

The Juniper Draw Loop is just over 3 miles and is one of the most popular trails in the park. If you plan to do the whole thing, I recommend going clockwise, as this saves all the best parts for the end.

If you are not wanting to do the whole hike, you can go clockwise and just go up to Miller Point, which is a steep climb offering great views of the park. You can also drive straight to the overlook, if you are not interested in the walk.

I also recommend, on this end of the loop, Cathedral Caves. While the ‘caves’ in Cathedral Gorge are actually slot canyons, they are really cool, and our kids loved climbing through them.

If you liked the Cathedral Caves, I strongly recommend the Moon Caves. This is a slightly different area with equally impressive slot canyons. There were a few areas that only my kids could fit into, which they found really exciting (and Alyson and I found really nerve wracking). Both Eileen and JR said this was their favorite part of our entire trip.

Great Basin National Park

Visitors Center: Great Basin has two VCs, Lehman and GB, and I recommend visiting both. The Lehman VC has an attached cafe with a much better gift shop attached.

Astronomy Program: Great Basin is a certified dark sky park, so people flock from all around to check out the star. We went to a ranger led program that was great. The skies were amazing, and one of the telescopes showed Saturn clear to the point that the rings were actually visible through the lens. It is a later night, and it was hard for our four year-old to sit through, but it was worth it.

Wheeler Scenic Drive: This drive up the mountain takes you past several great overlooks, including one of Nevada’s only glacier, and goes by most of the trails you will want to hike. It is also a good way to see all the changing leaves if you are there at the right time.

Alpine Lakes Loop: This 3-ish mile loop is at the termination of Wheel Drive and is one of the park’s most popular. We went counterclockwise, but I didn’t really see a lot of advantages to one way or the other. Frankly, I wasn’t as impressed with this hike as I had hoped. It goes by two alpine lakes, but at this time of year, my daughter suggested they were more like alpine ponds. It was a good trek but not particularly mind blowing.

If you don’t have young kids and/or are feeling like you need more, the Bristlecone Pine and Glacier Trails branch of the loop, but they add a lot of extra mileage.

Lehman Caves: This was my favorite part of our trip. We took a guided, 60 minute tour that revealed all sorts of great features in this living cave. I love a good cave, and this might be my favorite that we’ve toured in a National Park.

Strawberry Creek Road: To access this, you have to leave the park and drive north, then follow a dirt road back in. We were the only people for miles, which was pretty fantastic. At the end of the road, we did a 1-mile loop that goes along Strawberry Creek. This was a nice trail, but again, not all that amazing, except that we saw a family of deer, including a 10-point buck, which made it all worthwhile.

Where We Stayed

Swallow Cove B&B: There aren’t a lot of options to stay near Cathedral Gorge, which is why this place was such a pleasant surprise. We had a great room with plenty of space for five, and homemade breakfast in the morning. One of the best amenities was the key-less entry. We arrive late, so the host simply texted us the instructions. We had a completely contact-free check-in and check-out.

Hidden Canyon Retreat: This place is fantastic. There are also few lodging options for Great Basin, and this one is actually the further of the two. That said, it appeared to be the far better choice. The approach is a 6-mile dirt road, but once you’ve done it once, it is far less daunting. The room was great with a fully functioning kitchen. We bought supplies and cooked dinner both nights in our room. There’s a heated pool, a hot tub, several grills, a convenience store and several friendly animals (including a 5-point buck). Recently, our best experiences have been the ones where we really liked our lodging, and Hidden Canyon did not disappoint.

Where We Ate

Historic Silver Cafe: On the way out of Cathedral Gorge, we stopped at the Silver Cafe, the older cafe in Nevada. The food was decent, and they were showing college football, so it was a good experience. If there were other options, and it wasn’t historic, I am not sure we would’ve stopped, but there was nothing significant about which to complain.

Sugar, Salt & Malt: We ate here for lunch on Saturday, and it was solid. We all got sandwiches that hit the spot, and everyone was very friendly. The dinner menu looked interesting, but due to staffing issues, they were only open for lunch during our stay. There was also a note about the owners selling the establishment, but it was not clear whether that is a recent development or has already happened. Whether or not it is there when you go, I can’t say for sure. There are not a lot of options for food in Great Basin, so do your research and plan ahead.

Able Baker Brewing: This brewery is actually in Vegas, and is where we stopped for lunch on Monday before boarding a plane. I thought it was great, one of my favorite recent breweries. There were several food options that the whole family loved, and a plethora of beers. Whether or not you’re going to Great Basin, if you want a break from the Strip part of Vegas, this is cool spot.

Overall, Great Basin was a great trip, and Cathedral Gorge was a great addition. That said, I do not think I would put it in my top 10 National Parks. If you are looking for stunning scenery, breathtaking waterfalls and great trails with hidden wonders, this probably isn’t the park for you. That said, I do think that of Mammoth Cave, Wind Cave and Carlsbad Caverns, GBNP has my favorite cave system. If you are looking for seclusion, wide open spaces and a crystal clear night sky, then look no further.

Next up for the Traveling Igoes, we’re headed to Dallas for Thanksgiving to see Alyson’s family. We were able to get tickets to the Cowboys game, and I couldn’t be more excited. Whether you’re a Dallas fan or not, if you’re a football fa, Cowboys on Thanksgiving should be on your bucket list.

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Summertime in Tahoe

This July, we met my parents and three brother on the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe, in Stateline, for a week. We stayed in a VRBO on top of a mountain near the Heavenly Ski Resort. It was sold as a ski-in, ski-out, so it is primarily for winter use, but it made for a great summer home. It was basically two different three story units attached to one another, which worked well for our group of fourteen.

Lake Tahoe is quite expansive, so you have to plan what you do, what to see and where to eat based upon how much time you are willing to spend in the car. Getting up and down our mountain took a solid fifteen minutes, so that included, everything we did was at least half an hour away, so we really had to make the most of our time.

Hikes

Cascade Falls: I believe this was my favorite trail that we took on our trip. It is 1.3 miles out-and-back and does include some strenuous uphills and some scrambling. The effort is completely worth it. At the top, you find dozens of small cascades that you can play around in before they become a large waterfall. Not only do you get a great view of Lake Tahoe, but there is another, more secluded lake which is spectacular. Parking can be difficult, but going either early or later in the day can help.

Cave Rock: This is a short, popular hike with extremely limited parking. The initial approach is simple, but the end is a relatively vertical climb. This trail is most popular at sunset, so gets very crowded, but if you are willing to get there early, you can dangle your feet over the lake and watch the sun drop below the mountains.

Horsetail Falls: This is a great hike, but a good distance from where we were staying. It is hard time find exactly where this trail starts, but look for the Pyramid Peak parking lot. When you start up, I strongly suggest using AllTrails, because while the trail is marked, it is over a lot of stones, so it is not always clear where the pathway is. The best thing to do is follow the falls up, where you can find several small pools to swim in. Getting all the way to falls is difficult, and something we did not accomplish, but you get cool views of it all the way up.

Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake: This trail was by far the most difficult to park at. It is on the other side of the road from Emerald Bay, and there are multiple smaller lots, but we had to circle a lot to get a spot around 9:30 am. The hike up is two part, the first going along to Upper Eagle Falls, the second reaching an amazing mountain like. You should definitely go all the way. The trail was too difficult for my parents, but we made it with just a little difficulty.

Excurions

Clear Kayak Lake Tour: Tahoe Paddle Sports offers a really fun tour of Tahoe on the Nevada side. The clear kayaks are great and our guide was fantastic. It is not a super exhilarating, high-energy tour, but it was very relaxing and a nice way to see parts of the lake.

Rafting the American River: This was done through a friend of my brothers but is definitely something you should look into. It took us over an hour to reach the initial launch spot, but it was worth it. We basically did two tours. The older, more adventurous of us started at the top and took on some class 3+ rapids. We met the kids and grandparents halfway down, who joined us for a leisurely float for the rest of the day.

Boat Rental: Out of the Ski Run Marina, we rented two speed boats and a tube, each able to hold seven people. It was a lot of fun tossing the kids around on the tube and exploring the lake. It was also a good way to see Emerald Bay and get a close up look Fannette Island and the Tea House.

Beaches

Emerald Bay: Getting down to the Emerald Bay beach includes a solid 1 mile hike, once you’ve won the battle for parking. The hike is downhill, so super easy on the way down, not so much on the way up. The Vikingsholm House is at the bottom, so that is fun to see, and there are several vendors who rent things like kayaks and SUPs. If you’ve got the stamina for it, this trip is worth the walk.

Round Hill Pines: This is the beach where we spent a solid four or five hours. It doesn’t get nearly as crowded as some of the other options, but it just as impressive. The beach is gritty, but that is normal in the area, and there’s a restaurant and bar. We were also able to rent chairs, an umbrella and two jet skis for an hour.

Where We Ate

South of North Brewing Co: This brewery has decent food and decent beer and absolutely no parking. Our main reason for going was a Wednesday night trivia, which we won.

Artemis Lakefront Cafe: This Mediterranean restaurant is right on the water and kind of expensive. That said, the food was good, the view was great, and it was very convenient.

Riva Grill on the Lake: Riva is in the same Ski Run marina as Artemis. I prefer the former. Riva does have a great view, and the food was fine, but way over-priced with mediocre service.

Base Camp Pizza: This is a cool pizza place in the most popular part of town. It was good, but our favorite part was the large number of great appetizers they offered.

If you’ve never been to a ski town in the summer, you ought to consider it. We went to Breckinridge a few years ago and felt the same way. There is a lot to do and usually all sorts of great hikes. I usually try to offer advice at the end of our posts, things that I would do differently, but I really don’t have much to say. It wasn’t my favorite vacation ever, but it really was a lot of fun.