After we left the Custer State Park region of the Black Hills, we headed Northwest towards Spearfish Canyon. This area is still part of the Black Hills but distinct from Custer. It is also the close to Deadwood and only about an hour from Devil’s Tower in Wyoming. If you’ve got the time, all three of these areas need to be visited.
What We Did
Bridal Veil Falls: This water fall is pretty, and is right off the road one takes to reach the other two falls in the Spearfish area. I recommend checking this one out first. There’s a nice overlook, but that’s about all that it is.
Roughlock Falls: We did this second of the three falls. You’ll need to park behind the lodge in the area, and then there is a pretty easy 2-mile out-and-back that leads to a beautiful green, rolling set of waterfalls. If you don’t feel like hiking, you can actually drive up to a parking lot at the top of the falls, but the hike is definitely worth it.
Spearfish Falls: This was my favorite of the three falls, and I think my favorite thing we did. You leave from the same parking lot and access the trail from behind a restaurant (where you are forbidden to park). The hike is less than a mile round trip and leads to a spectacular waterfall where we stayed and relaxed for at least half an hour.
Devil’s Bathtub: This is a very unique trail in the Spearfish area. There’s little total elevation gain, but it is a lot of ups and downs. You end up crossing the creek probably a dozen times, so you’ll definitely get wet. If you’ve got sturdy water shoes, that’s the way to go. Several times, we thought we’d reached the end but just keep going; you’ll know when you get there. Aside from a few dozen other people, there’s an obvious natural water slide, that whilst bumpy, was fun. Personally, this trail was a little too…popular for me, but Eileen claims it was her favorite part of the trip.
Deadwood: This historic western town has been commercialized with shows and casinos but shouldn’t be missed. We made it in time to see an old west shootout take place on Main St. and got to visit Charlie Utter’s. Especially if you enjoyed the HBO show, you’ll love the visit. We ate at the Buffalo Bodega, which is also a casino, but it had a lovely courtyard. The food was as expected, but we had a nice time. If you’ve ever been to Tombstone, Deadwood feels very similar, and if you’re in the area, don’t miss out.
Devil’s Tower National Monument: This unique formation is incredible inspiring. The views are you approach are amazing, and the opportunities for great pictures abound. That said, there’s not actually a lot to do there. If you plan ahead, you can actually climb portions of the monument, but I do not believe it is for novices. We took the trail that circumnavigates the tower, and it is pretty cool, but if all you have is time to get a look, that’s about all you need. We arrived at around 2 pm, and the line to get in took about 30 minutes. On our way out, at around 4, there was almost no line, so plan accordingly.
Where We Stayed
Spearfish KOA: This is a solid KOA. It’s nothing over-the-top like the Mount Rushmore KOA, but it was a fun place to stay. It had a nice store, a nice pool and solid wifi.
The Spearfish area was probably my favorite part of the trip. If you are in the Black Hills, there’s no doubt that you need to spend time in Custer but don’t hesitate to take a day and head towards Wyoming. There’s a lot to see here, and you won’t be disappointed.
It’s been over two years since the family’s last RV trip, and we were do. The first Friday after all three of the kids (and Alyson) were off school, we zipped up to Rapid City, SD, picked up an RV through Outdoorsy and made for the hills. This trip was an eight day adventure, but for the purposes of the blog, I am going to break into a few distinct parts.
What We Did
Wind Cave NP: Wind Cave is a National Park on the southern end of the Black Hills in South Dakota. It is unique in that it features extensive box work patterns. I visited once as a teenager and was impressed. Unfortunately, this summer, the elevator is being replaced, so the cave itself was not accessible. The above ground acreage is extensive, and there is some cool stuff, including the Rankin Ridge Trail (which should be walked clockwise), but without the cave, there’s not actually that much reason to go. We knew ahead of time, but also knew we were going to South Dakota, and the chances of going back anytime soon seemed slim, so we went to get our books stamped. It would have been a lot better with a cave tour.
Jewel Cave NM: Jewel Cave, whilst only a National Monument, is consider by some the better of the two caves. It is much more alive with all sorts of different features. Tickets are required and can be obtained through recreation.gov. Be careful you buy the correct tickets. I mistakenly booked the Discovery Tour, which is only 20 minutes, only one room, and probably only for seniors. You want the Scenic Tour, which I also took in my teens, which is great. What we saw was still really cool but not as great as it could have been.
Cosmos Mystery Area: This experience is a bit of kitsch, a bit Gravity Falls, and is a fun way to spend about an hour. Some blogs we read prior stated this was the best thing they did in the Black Hills, which for us, it was not, but it was a unique way to spend an afternoon. The Mystery Area is a unique place, gravitationally speaking, in the Black Hills. Depending on where a person stands, he or she appears to grow or shrink. In one room, you have little choice by to stand at a 45 degree angle. In another, a ball rolls down one railing and right back up a parallel one. It is probably a hoax, but the kids enjoyed it, and it was less than $70 for all of us.
Buffalo Safari Jeep Tour: This tour takes you along the southern loop of Custer State Park with the goal of seeing the local wildlife. The jeeps are open air, and a bit bumpy at times, and can seat at least 9 comfortably. In terms of the geography of the park, Custer is similar to Yellowstone, if on a smaller scale, in that the southern half is very different from the northern. The lower portion is a bit flatter and much more grassy. Almost immediately, we found hundreds of hilarious ground hogs, a few dozen antelope (yes, antelope) and one coyote. Oh, and several hundred bison less than a few feet away. If the name of the tour bothers you, it has evidently become acceptable in areas where they actually exist to refer to bison as buffalo.
Crazy Horse Memorial: This is a really interesting site. You can buy advanced tickets to enter the grounds, then a $5 ride to the base of the monument or a $120 ride that will get you up to the chieftain’s face. We wanted to do the latter, but the timing wasn’t right, so we visited the base. I saw this monument about 25 years ago and progress, while moving forward, has been very slow. That said, if and when it’s finished, it will be amazing. If you’re able, I recommend the face tour, as we heard great things from some Texans we met at a bar. Keep in mind these tours go every hour on the hour. The base tours go far more frequently.
Mount Rushmore: If you’re going to the Black Hills, you can’t in good conscience miss this mountain. I’ve heard other say they found it underwhelming. I have now been twice and both times found it inspiring. There is a nice hike around the grounds that gets you different viewpoints, and a lot of history in the Visitors Center. This feels like a bucket list items for any American. It doesn’t take more than an hour or two, and it is worth every minute.
Cathedral Spires: This trail is in the heart of the Black Hills, and is a 1.6 mile out-and-back. Parking is limited, but since the trail is not that long, turnover is high. This was probably our favorite hike in the hills, with really stunning scenery throughout and a satisfying payoff at the end. It does include some scrambling, but nothing our 3 year old couldn’t handle.
The Needles/Iron Mountain Roads: One of the iconic things to do in Custer State Park is to drive the Needles and the Iron Mountain roads. The highways themselves are only a few miles, but they are windy and scenic, and crisscross the park, so the drive requires time and patience. The Needles offers several one-way tunnels that are exhilarating, and the Iron Mountains offers the same. I recommend going North to South on the Needles and the opposite for the Iron Mountains. A few of the latter tunnels open up to picturesque views of Mount Rushmore. We had to rent a car from our KOA for this. If you were thinking about trying in an RV, don’t; you’ll get stuck and ruin everyone’s week.
Rushmore Tramway Adventure: This was just a nice break from all the driving, hiking and photo-capturing for the kids. Alyson and the older two did a 5-line zip which they loved, while Clara and I rode the alpine sled and tube slide. There are a few other outfitters in Keystone that offer similar excursions; we find it to be a nice way to break up any potential monotony for the younglings.
Rock Climbing: Sylvan Rock Climbing took Jonathan and Eileen into the park to scale several of the spires. It took about 4 hours and was totally worth it. The guides were great, everything was perfectly safe and the scenery was special, even for those of us who weren’t actually climbing.
Where We Stayed
Fall River Ranch RV Resort: The first night, we stayed at an RV park in close proximity to Wind Cave. It was nothing special, but they had full hooks, a very nice restroom/shower complex and a wonderful owner. I would recommend it to anyone.
Mount Rushmore KOA: This place was bananas, B-A-N-A-N-A-S. It’s now a Holiday run KOA, but is really more of a resort. It’s right in the heart of Custer State Park and has everything. There’s a restaurant, a bar, ice cream, rental vehicles available, a pancake breakfast and much, much more. If you are looking for solitude, this is not the place for you, but if you want a pool with a water slide, check it out.
This all took us about 60 hours, and then we moved northwest into the Spearfish area. It was a great start, and we were able to fill out days. The best decision we made was to rent a car for a day so that we could make our way through the entirety of the park.
As the school year came to a close in 2024, my wife and eldest daughter went on a service trip to Nicaragua, starting on Memorial Day weekend and lasting for 8 days. To keep the wander lust as bay, Clara, JR and I decided to take a short jaunt to Chicago and catch a White Sox home game.
If you are asking why in the world did we choose the White Sox, the answer is pretty straightforward. For one, it is a direct flight from NOLA to Chicago, which made traveling with a three year old a lot easier. Two, we had never been, and I would like to see a ball game in home stadium of every team. Counting the ChiSox, I am up to fourteen.
We were in Chicago for less than 24 hours total, but we had a great time. There’s so much to do there, that we could go back again and have a completely different experience.
What We Did
Stax Cafe: We arrived quite early, and the game didn’t start until 1:10 pm, so our first stop was at Stax for pancakes. There are at least two of these in Chicago, and I was very impressed. They have a very diverse menu for breakfast and for lunch, and have several options for kids. All three of us got pancakes, and while JR, who is a bit of a pancake snob, said they weren’t the best he’s ever had, they were definitely above average. We were all very satisfied.
Maggie Daley Park: This is a great public play area right off the water in downtown Chicago. It has a lot to offer, and while we didn’t have a ton of time, we managed to get in 18 holes of mini golf and about 45 minutes on the playgrounds. There’s a lot more to do in this area, and it has great options for kids. We probably could have spent the whole day there. The only drawback is that parking is kind of confusing and kind of expensive.
White Sox Game: If you were too suggest that the White Sox stadium has the worst name in baseball, I wouldn’t disagree. That said, the stadium itself is quite impressive. While it isn’t in the best part of the city, the area immediately surrounding the stadium is great. There is ample parking, and since the team is pretty mediocre at the moment, we were able to park less than five minutes away.
There is a large Kids’ Zone in the outfield, but we actually didn’t take advantage of it. JR said the pretzel was a 6 out of 10, which is much higher than Philadelphia, and Clara easily took care of a hot dog. My only complaint about the food is that they didn’t have any candy (as far as we could tell), which helps to get a three year old through 3 hours of ball.
My favorite things about the White Sox experience are the batters eye and City Connect jerseys. Centerfield is lovely copse of green trees and bushes that creates a much more esthetic batters’ eye than does a simple green wall. While they weren’t wearing their City Connect jersey’s that day, I think the White Sox’ is one of the best. I see little reason to ever go back the Guaranteed Rate, but I would definitely recommend it.
Lou Malnati’s: We closed the night with deep dish pizza and spaghetti at Lou Malnati’s. I am not expert in Chicago-style pizza; frankly, it’s not my favorite. That said, the food was good, the beer was cold and the people were friendly, so what could there be to complain about?
We had a great, brief experience in Chicago, and while the Sox field certainly doesn’t compare to Wrigley, it certainly isn’t at the bottom of the list of stadiums that we’ve visited. It probably doesn’t make the list of must-do things in Chicago, but for the MLB fans hoping to visit every stadium, Guaranteed Rate is more than just a box to check, it was a very pleasant experience. We spent the night at a Holiday Inn Express (which was not very nice) near the airport and caught the early flight home.
Next up, we’ve got an RV trip through the Dakotas, so stay tuned to see if I hit another Dairy Queen.
This year, as Eileen went off to Spring Break in Pensacola, JR, Alyson, Clara and I made our way from New Orleans directly to Baltimore for Easter. This is the fourth year in a row that we’ve used this weekend to visit a new city and go to a ball game (or two).
We landed in Baltimore in the early evening on Friday night and spent some time tooling around the Inner Harbor area. This is one of the more popular, touristy areas of the city. You’ll definitely pay tourist prices, but there’s a lot to do. We were too early in the season for the majority of the water activities, but it’s still a pretty interesting area.
Where We Ate
Angie’s Seafood: This was a great spot that had reservations available for us on a Friday night in Lent. The entire menu looked great, and while it was pricey, the food was worth it. We were definitely on the prowl for crab cakes, and these were some of the best I have ever had. It’s worth it to keep in mind that the crab cakes in Baltimore differ from those, in say, New Orleans. Back home, it’s basically a fried patty. On the east coast, it was almost like a huge ice cream scoop of crab with very little filler, warmed and browned on a grill top. The meal was quite satisfying.
Underground Pizza CO.: This pizza places specializes in Detroit-style pizza, which basically means sauce on the top and no crust. This, too, was in the Inner Harbor area, so was pricey and touristy, but the food was really good and the people were really friendly.
Miss Shirleys: This is one of the classic breakfasts spots, of which there are several throughout the Baltimore area. We were able to walk from our hotel, and all four of us easily found something we were able to enjoy.
Peabody Heights Brewery: Full disclosure, we didn’t actually eat at this brewery. There was a food truck, but we didn’t actually try anything. The beer was solid, and there were a dozen or so options. Two unique things about this brewery is that first, it’s located at the site of the old Orioles baseball stadium, there’s some cool historical stuff to look at. The second is that the brewery includes an all-you-can-play video arcade for $15. Our kids were allowed to participate, and we spent a solid two hours here.
What We Did
Babe Ruth Birthplace and Museum: If you are a baseball lover or a history lover, this is a cool place to visit. While Babe Ruth only lived at this Baltimore site for about a week, they have done a really good job of preserving it. There are some really cool old baseball cards, not just of the Babe, several exhibits about the Babe and the Orioles, and a short, but poignant video about the relationship between big league ball and the national anthem. It’s priced reasonably, and only takes about an hour, and is definitely worthwhile.
Fort McHenry: Speaking of the national anthem, this is National Historic Site was the location of the battle where it was originally penned. At the time we were there, the Fort actually overlooked the collapsed bridge, but in addition to that, it is a well-preserved part of American history. The grounds are beautiful, especially when the trees are flowering, and there’s a great video about Francis Scott Key, the War of 1812 and the development of the Star-Spangled Banner.
Phillies Game: If you’ve come to Baltimore for the love of the game, as did we, it might be worth your time to drive two hours northeast and catch a Phillies game. We did on the Saturday, and watched the Phillies drop one to the Braves. Although I am a fan of neither team, it is always fun to watch the Phillies lose; their fans take it so well.
I believe this was the 12th MLB team at whose stadium I saw a home game, and frankly, I was not impressed. I love visiting Philadelphia, but everything you hear about the Philly-faithful is true. They boo almost all the time, including their owns players. The stadium is relatively lackluster. Worst of all, the fans don’t seem to understand normal, live sports etiquette. They stand up to go to the vendors or bathroom mid-pitch and seem to completely disregard the fact that others a trying to watch the game. In terms of getting to a home game of every club, I am glad that we went, but I don’t have plans to ever go back.
Orioles Game: Camden Yards is a completely different story. This first of the classic, retro stadiums is built right into the heart of the city and does not disappoint. While I am aware that the team itself frequently disappoints, we had a great experience. For me, an Orioles game is the top attraction in Baltimore. Of the stadiums that I have been in, I think I would have to rank it third, behind only Busch and Wrigley.
We had a great trip and great time visiting Baltimore. It is a very diverse city, and it has a lot to offer. I would gladly go back given the opportunity. Next on our list might be another short baseball trip with just JR, Clara and I, or it will be a big one: South Dakota, North Dakota and an RV. Stay tuned…
For those of you that are reading regularly, and I know there are a lot, you are aware that during Mardi Gras in 2024, we visited both Death Valley National Park and Valley of Fire State Park (as well as the Hoover Dam, Lake Mead NRA and Vegas). For purposes of this blog, it made more sense to split the two valleys up, so this post is about our 24 hours or so in the Valley of Fire.
This state park is about an hour northeast of Vegas in Nevada and easily rivals most National Parks. In terms of breadth and scope, Death Valley is definitely more impressive, but in terms of what we actually did, I think the family preferred the Valley of Fire.
This geological wonderland contains petroglyphs, a wave, a slot canyon, petrified wood and so much more. It’s busy and parking can be limited, but it’s an easy trek from Vegas and great way to add an outdoors experience to your trip.
Where to Stay
We stayed on Overton, NV, which is right outside the park, at the North Shore Inn. The Inn is nothing special, but our rooms were clean, and the people are nice. This area is not very well developed, so there are not a lot of places to eat. We ate at a Mexican restaurant called La Fonda and a pizza place called Pirate’s Landing. Neither blew our minds, but when you’ve spent all day hiking and/or driving, a clean place to sit with nice people is all that’s really needed.
What to Do
Elephant Rock: This is one of the first attractions you’ll come across when you enter from the East entrance. There’s a parking lot and a short hike, although you don’t actually have to do the hike, as the Elephant is right along the street. That said, you are not actually allowed to climb the elephant, but if your kids are into bouldering, there are some great opportunities along this short trek.
Rainbow Vista: This trail is a 1 mile out-and-back and ends at a beautiful over look of the red rocks contrasted against the green mountains. It’s relatively easy and is a good introduction to the park.
Seven Wonders Trail: This loop is about two miles and is one of the most popular in the park. About halfway in, you’ll reach the Fire Wave, which is similar to the Wave you’ve likely seen on InstaFace, just to a smaller extent. Without the wave, which is about a mile in, the hike would still be worth it, as the entire expanse is quite impressive. I recommend going clockwise, as you’ll go down the steeper part and walk back up far more gradually.
White Domes Trail: This 1.2-mile loop is at the end of the park and is also quite popular. It takes you through a short slot canyon. It is nowhere near as impressive as something like Antelope Canyon, but for the short time that you’re in it, it is very cool.
Atlatl Rock: This rock is cool in that a staircase has been built into it so you can walk up and see the petroglyphs. I am not one who finds petroglyphs super impressive; if you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. Frankly, it is hard for me to distinguish between protected art and graffiti, but the rock itself is pretty cool, and in order to fill a day, you’ll need to include this. You can also stop at the beehive rocks in your way out of this area.
Fire Canyon: This is more of a drive than a hike, but it offers a really unique view of the Valley from just outside of the parking lot. Following the advice of one of the park rangers, this is where watched the sunset, and it was quite lovely.
What We Learned
We loved this park, and in a lot of way, it’s more impressive than several of the National Parks which we have visited. That is something to keep in mind, especially when headed to the Southwest. There are a lot of great things you can find without much difficulty of you take the time to look around. One full day is certainly enough to hit all the important parts of this park.
Next up, JR and I are headed to Jacksonville for his first concert (Fall Out Boy). We probably won’t post about, but you never know…
Those of you paying super close attention will note that this is actually two separate blog entries, one for Death Valley and one for Valley of Fire. We actually visited these over the same trip, as well as see Hoover Dam, the Lake Mead National Recreation Area and a Golden Knights games, but for the purposes of this blog, I think it is easier to separate the two Valleys into their own posts.
Over the Mardi Gras break this year, we decided to take the kids out west, again, to see one of the country’s lesser visited National Parks. Death Valley is a below-sea-level basin in constant drought that records summer heat extremes higher than anywhere else in North America.
It takes about two hours to get there from Vegas and is legitimately in the middle of nowhere. Our arrival time was well into the dark of night, which was actually pretty spectacular, as the star-scape is pretty unreal.
We did a lot of planning to figure out exactly how much time we needed, and we settled on basically two full days. I believe one full day could have been enough, and I believe we could have filled more time on a third day, but for us, 36-48 hours seemed like the sweet spot.
Where to Stay:
We stay at The Ranch is Death Valley, which is also associated with the Oasis. This is a great resort. We had a two room cabin that easily slept five and access to all sorts of amenities. The Ranch has a golf course, spring-fed pool that is warm year round, two restaurants, horseback riding, a general store, a museum, a playground, oh, and wifi.
The resort alone makes it worth it to stay a few days. That said, the restaurants are pretty expensive, and the food is more than pretty mediocre. I’d give the resort itself 5-stars with an addendum, giving the restaurants 2. That said, there aren’t a lot of alternatives in the area, so options are limited.
The Ranch is in the Furnace Creek area, which is more or less centrally located. There is another area, which is even more central, that one can stay, called Stovepipe Wells, but it is not nearly as quaint.
What to Do:
Horseback Ride: The Ranch offers several rides into the park, including sunrise and sunset. We did a sunrise tour and frankly, it was kind of a disappointment. The ride was fine, and the views were great, but I can’t say that it was really worth the effort.
Zabriski Point: This is a great introductory overlook into the vastness of Death Valley. It is an easy walk up from a parking lot and the views of the colored hills are pretty impressive.
Badwater Basin: This is the lowest point in North America and is why most people come. The drive takes about half an hour and is definitely worth it. You reach a basin that occasionally has an inch of water in it that you can walk out on; it gives the appearance of walking on water. At this stage in 2024, there was actually far more water than normal, due to Hurricane Sandy, so it actually wasn’t as impressive as we’d hoped. There were several areas though where we could walk out onto the salt flats, which is why we came.
Devils Golf Course: This is a really interested formation of rock and salt that would be an awful place to try to play golf. There is a road down that leads to a parking lot, but during our trip, the road was closed (it’s not clear why), so it was a 2 mile out-and-back to see anything of interest. I am not actually sure this is worth the walk, but the ‘golf course’ itself is pretty interested.
Gold Canyon Hike: The way we did this hike was from the Golden Canyon parking lot, and was about 4.5 miles. There are several intersecting trails that can make it far shorter or far longer, depending on what you want to do a see. The walk through the canyons and up the mountains is amazing, but strenuous. I recommend going clockwise, as you get the toughest section done in the first two miles and get to enjoy or more leisurely pace as you see the golden hills contrasted against the red and green rocks.
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes: There is an unusual, almost out-of-place, set of sand dunes near the Stovepipe Wells area, which is about half an hour from furnace creek. It is a popular place to watch the sunset, but there are so many dunes that it is easy to find your own personal dune to watch the god-flame set.
Ubehebe Crater: The crater is a solid hour-plus drive from the main areas of the park, but it is worth it. One of the interesting things about this NP is the varying topography, and the fact that a giant volcanic crater is part of the mix is pretty cool. You can drive up to it and hike all the way around for some cool views. I am not sure the hike is necessary, but it is a lovely area.
Mosaic Canyon: This is another worthwhile hike, about 3 miles out and back. It is uphill on the way in, but the grade is not too severe. I recommend it, but if you are pressed for time, the best parts of the hike are in the first half to full mile, so if you don’t make it all the way until the end, you won’t be missing out on much.
What We Didn’t Do:
Dante’s View: Unfortunately, this part of the park was closed due to recent flooding, but I understanding the view to be pretty impressive. That said, it sounds very similar to Zabriski Point, so I am not too devastated at having missed it.
20 Mule Team Canyon: This is supposed to be a very scenic drive in an historic area, but again was closed, due to recent flooding.
Artist’s Drive/Palette: This being closed was a real disappointment. It is supposed to be the best place to view the varying colors of the rock formations, ideally about an hour prior to sunset. It was a good learning experience for the kids, that sometimes things happen that you can’t change, and there are plenty of other places to see rocks a shockingly unusual color, but not getting to see it did suck.
Racetrack Playa: This was actually open, but we made the conscious decision not to go. The turn-off for the Racetrack is at the Ubehebe Crater parking lot, but says that it requires a high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicle. I have heard that most SUVs can handle it, and I think ours could have, but you are an awfully long way from nothing, with no cell service, if something goes wrong. This is the area where you can see the rocks apparently move on their own. If we ever go back, I think we’ll try to get a better car, but for this time around, oh well.
What We Learned
It depends on what you want to do, but Death Valley can be done pretty well in just a day. That said, if we really dived into what the The Ranch has to offer, I think we could have stayed there for three or four. I would definitely recommend getting a car that can handle the Racetrack Playa drive, which can be rented in the Furnace Creek area if needed.
I do not think I will be putting DV in my top 10 National Parks, and frankly, it might actually be towards the bottom, but the family and I had a great time. It is definitely something every Parks fan should see and given the opportunity, I would definitely go again.
The second part of our trip took place in another valley (of Fire). Take a look at our next post for more information about this incredible State Park.
This year for America’s favorite holiday, the Igoes again avoided sitting around in either St. Louis or San Antonio with our families and instead head west for beautiful Arizona. This was our third trip to the Grand Canyon state, and third different location we visited, which makes us think that perhaps we should just move to Arizona.
That not withstanding, we flew into Phoenix and drove north two hours to Sedona. Something to be kept in mind is that at certain times of day and year, this drive can take far longer than it seems it should, due to heavy traffic and narrow lanes, so please plan accordingly.
We rented in a house on the Oak Village area of Sedona, large enough for my extended family of parents and three brothers. The house was amazing, and in a fine location, but there are some takeaways that we will touch on towards the end.
Phoenix to Sedona
On our way up, we stopped at a few places to kill some time before we were able to check into the VRBO:
Montezuma Castle: This is a National Historic Site that is basically on your route, in the Verde area. It is a pretty interesting cliff dwelling, but aside from that, there isn’t a ton to see or do. It’s less than a half mile round trip to see the dwelling, and you can’t actually enter the dwelling. It’s pretty interesting, and there’s a passport stamp that can be obtained, but I think we spent no more than an hour there.
Verde Brewing Company: We ate lunch at a small, kind of underdeveloped brewery in Verde. The food was fine, as was the beer, but honestly, it was nothing special. On our way to our next stop, we went through the town of Cottonwood, which, in retrospect, is where we should have stopped for lunch. The town is adorable, and there is a lot there, including a brewery.
Tuzigoot National Monument: This adobe is another NPS are not too far off the route to Sedona, especially if you do stop in Cottonwood. We actually enjoyed this site more than Montezuma, I think. It’s a nice, short hike up a hill to a beautiful vista. The adobe is mostly recreation at this point, but it is still pretty fun to walk around, and yes, you can get your passport book stamped.
Sedona (Can’t Miss)
We did everything maximize the time we had in Sedona, only 3+ days, so below, I have chronicled the things that we did, how we did them, and why we would do them again.
Devil’s Bridge: This is one of the most popular hikes in Sedona, and thus, requires arriving early. We got to the parking lot at about 7:15 am and had no trouble getting a space. When we left about two hours later, the lot was full. There are several ways to do this trail, including taking a Pink Jeep tour or high clearance vehicle to a spot 1 mile shy of the bridge. Barring this, I recommend the Mescal Trailhead. From here, the round trip is about 4 miles, and the entire hike up is breathtaking. There are other options, but none which offer such a beautiful approach.
A few things about this trail to remember. If you take the Mescal Trail head, the first mile+ is relatively flat and easy, and then there’s a bit of rock scrambling towards the end. When you reach the top, the views are amazing and bridge is very unique. That said, even that early in the morning, we had to wait in line at the top of the bridge to get the Instagram-worthy picture that my 16 year-old (and every one else in Sedona) wanted.
Subway Cave: This was my favorite of the hikes we did, but also, an extremely popular Sedona experience. We arrived at about 8 am and no trouble parking, but by the time we left at around 11, the lot and trail were packed. This trail can be a bit difficult to identify, as it is actually called the Boynton Canyon trail, which has its own termination point. Basically, about two miles in, you take a right at the ‘Alligator Tree’ and go another quarter of the mile, over several fallen trees, to a great cave and Native American ruins. If you are using All Trails, it shows were to take the turn. If not, you can follow the crowds or look out for the Alligator Tree, although I did not find it as distinct as others had described.
The two mile approach is beautiful and mostly flat. Once you take the right turn, it gets narrower, and the end is definitely a climb. I did it with a three year old attached to me, so it is certainly doable. I recommend going up into the Subway Cave using the ‘slide’ on the right. After you get your picture, take the turn around to the right of the cave and check out the ruins. This part is just as impressive, and there is another way down that allows you to avoid the traffic coming up. If you have the time and the will to get to this trail early, I couldn’t recommend it more strongly.
Soldier Pass/Seven Sacred Pools: In order to access this popular Sedona site, it is necessary to take the Sedona Shuttle to the trailhead. Instead, we took a guide tour offered be West Sedona Jeep Tours. There are plenty of options, and all worth the time. We were able to book three separate Jeeps to accommodate our entire group, and were able to tour this area in about two hours.
The bumpy, thrilling jeep ride took us first to the Seven Sacred Pools, followed by Soldier Cave. It was nice for the whole family to get to participate. Several of the hikes we did were without the larger group, and for a few, my mom (70) stopped once the rock scrambling began. The tour group was great and payoff was certainly worth it.
Birthing Cave: Another popular location, this site is a bit easier to park at, and is less than two miles, round-trip. Much like the rest of Sedona, the approach is mostly flat with a rock scramble to the top. The view from the Birthing Cave is really impressive, but you are likely to have to wait in line to get the shot that you want. I also found some of the online photos of this area misleading. It is not a through-and-through hole in the mountain (arch). There is definitely a back wall, with a little cove, from where you can get great pictures. My daughter got herself into the cove and successfully birthed back out for a great photo.
Fey Canyon/Arch: This hike is actually not nearly as well-traveled as some of the others. We were turned onto it by our Jeep guides, and for the most part, had the trail to ourselves. The hike is similar to Devil’s Bridge, in that it ends on and arch that you can ascend. It is not quite as stand-alone as Devil’s Bridge, but it was my daughter’s favorite part of our trip.
Again, the hike is not long, and there is a scramble at the end. I suggest that on the approach, though, you are vigilant, as the turn off to the scramble to the arch is actually not all that obvious, so keep an eye on your trail map.
West Fork Trail: This trail was billed as something similar to The Narrows in Zion, but frankly, it was kind of a disappointment. On the north end of Sedona, this trail which requires $12 to be accessed, winds along the West Fork River and crosses in several places. Out and back, I believe it is about 7 miles.
The scenery is lovely, but it does not compare to The Narrows. I should mention that the baby was acting like a psycho at the time, so we didn’t make it to the end, which is supposed to be the best part. Your experience might be different, but of all the things we did, I would put this at the bottom of the list.
Bell Rock: This short, but steep hike is one of the main attractions in the southern half of Sedona. The ‘trail’ is less than a mile up, but it is relatively undefined, and is mostly a rock scramble. This is a great area to take in panoramic views of the sunset. Parking is free and does not require the shuttle, but can be kind of difficult. Bell Rock is a great spot and offers something for hikers of all ages and skill levels.
Castle Rock: Castle Rock is one of the most popular destinations in Sedona. In order to access it on weekends, you have to take the Sedona Shuttle. Early in the day, this is quick and easy but as the day lengthens and traffic worsens, the shuttle can take some time.
If at all possible, you’ve got to climb Castle Rock. It is not particularly dissimilar to Bell Rock, but I thought the views were better, and the sunset is pretty amazing.
Chapel of the Holy Cross: Regardless of your religious affiliation, this Catholic Church, cut into the side of the mountain, is pretty cool. I recommend going early, as the crowds get intense, but even then, it is worth it. It is an active Church, so it is important to be respectful, but if at all possible, I recommend a quick visit.
For Next Time:
I thought Sedona was amazing; I would love to visit again. If possible, I would choose to go at a less busy time; Thanksgiving is very popular, but I suppose that is the nature of the beast. Traffic getting from the Oak Village area (south) to North Sedona and West Sedona can take quite sometime in the middle of the day.
If we were choosing where to stay again, I think I would pick the north area. Most of the hikes we really wanted to do were North and West, as well as most of the restaurants and shops. Bell and Castle Rock are both on the south side, but aside from that, we spent most of our time elsewhere.
What I wish I had known prior to our last day is that from the south side of Sedona, there are trails that allow you to access things like Castle Rock from a different approach. We learned this by taking a few wrong turns and getting advice from a local. There is a street called Verde Valley School Rd. If you follow this until it becomes a dirt road and keep going, you will come to a few parking lots that access several trails, including ones that can be put together to get you to Castle Rock. By the time we discovered this, it was too late to really take advantage, but next time around, this is where we’ll start.
Not sure what’s next for us. Christmas is in San Antonio, and after that, there is talk of Costa Rica, or maybe the Virgin Islands, but we’ll be back on the trail soon. I’ll keep you posted…
This year, for Fall Break, in addition to a short trip to Harpers Ferry and college tour for Eileen, they family and I spent basically 48 hours in Shenandoah National Park. If you’re asking whether or not this is adequate time, I think the answer is probably no. There were definitely things that we would’ve like to have done but couldn’t squeeze in
If you are wondering whether two days is enough time to get a good feel for the park and really enjoy it, then the answer is definitely yes.
Just 75 miles from the bustle of Washington, D.C., Shenandoah National Park is a land bursting with cascading waterfalls, spectacular vistas, fields of wildflowers, and quiet wooded hollows. With over 200,000 acres of protected lands that are haven to deer, songbirds, and black bear, there’s so much to explore. We started at the North end of the park, at the Dickey Ridge Visitors Center and made our way south along the Skyline Drive.
The park is basically bisected by this drive, with plenty of things to do along the way. It is also surrounded by multiple small towns that offer various other activities.
Hikes
Bearfence Loop Trail: This 1.4 mile loop is one of the most popular trails in the park, not without reason. The way up involves several strenuous rock scrambles. It was quite difficult with a 3 year old strapped in, but we made it. We did it later in the day, which gave us a great view of the sunset, but it can be, and was at the time, extremely windy. Most of the other people on the trail turned back and scrambled back down, but it is actually easier if you keep going. The decent along a portion of the Appalachian Trail is quite mild. Alltrails was very helpful in this respect, as I am not sure it was clear to all that this trail is actually a loop.
Dark Hollow Falls: This is another great trail, and 1.5 miles out-and-back. Again, very popular, the way down to the falls is quite steep, so be prepared for a tough trek back up. When you reach the end, the payoff is solid, but honestly, not great. If you are hoping for a massive cascade, I think you’ll be disappointed. In terms of falls, I would put this at a 5 or 6/10, but the trail is definitely worth taking.
Excursions
Luray Caverns: We actually stayed in Luray, which is about halfway down Skyline Drive. In Luray, there is really cool set of caves that you can tour at your leisure. I love a good cave, and this one does not disappoint. That said, I recommend getting to the caves right when they open. They are very popular, which can lead to traffic jams inside the caves themselves. This area is well-developed, with several other things to do, including a ropes course that all three of our kids enjoyed.
Rafting: We took a trip with the Shenandoah River Outfitters. It was self-guided but very well marked. It was a little cold to be on the water in the fall, but our portion of the river was mild to the point that we didn’t really get wet. This company offers multiple options with vary degrees of difficulty, and we chose what we did as it allowed our 3 year old to participate.
Ziplining: Our kids love a good zip, and we made a reservation with Bear Mountain Ziplines. The tour included 7 zips, and for those of you experienced, it is the type that involves hand-breaking. Of the zips we’ve done, I wouldn’t put this in the top 5, but everyone had a lot of fun.
Horseback Riding: We actually didn’t get to ride this trip, due to my daughter’s college tour, but there are a few outfitters that will take you into the park itself. One, Mountaintop Ranch, will even let you go tandem with a little one.
Lodging/Food
Luray: We stayed in a VRBO in Luray, which was about 20 minutes from one of the park entrances. I recommend this only if you are unable to get lodging in the park. The lodging within is quite limited, so this is a good back-up option, but if you are planning well in advance, you are much better off within the friendly confines.
Elkwallow Wayside: This shop does not offer any lodging options, but is a must-stop. It is along the Skyline Drive and a regular stop for those hiking the Appalachian Trail. We ate lunch here, smash burgers from the grill, and stocked up on a few supplies for the house. The food is good, and the ambiance is unbeatable.
Skyland: This is one of the two main lodges in the park, and it has a restaurant and tap room. Of the two, we preferred this lodge less. The tap room is really just an offshoot of the restaurant with the same menu, and our wait was about an hour. That said, it was a nice place to sit and watch the sunset, and the food was fine. If it had availability, I would have been happy to stay in the Skyland Lodge, but if both had availability, I would definitely prefer Big Meadows.
Big Meadows Wayside: Big Meadows is the further south lodge, and I believe a little smaller. It feels a lot more quint, and their tap room is completely separate. This is where we ate, and the food and atmosphere were terrific. This was one of my favorite nights in the park.
If you’re heading to Shenandoah NP, there is a enough to do to fill a week. If possible, plan ahead and try to stay inside the park. I think you’ll be much happier that you did.
The Igoes have finally answered one of the world’s great questions: can Harpers Ferry be fully appreciate in just half a day? The answer is unequivocally no.
For fall break this year, including a college visit in DC, and a NP visit in Virginia, we decided to check WV off the list for all the Igoes who aren’t writing this blog. I have been several times, primarily driving to and from UVA with my dad and brother, but none of the rest of us had.
You may or may not be aware that a new NP exists in West Virginia, New River Gorge, but our youngest isn’t old enough for most of the river excursions, so we took the next best option, which, for me, is Harpers Ferry.
This beautiful historic site is tucked into the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers, and has extensive historical significance, from John Brown’s abolitionist movement to a munitions hub during the Civil War. The area is beautifully maintained and a lovely place to spend a few hours.
That said, we probably could have put together two or three days here, especially without the kids. There are a lot of places to eat, a lot of mini-museums and a whole lot to see.
Things to Do:
Jefferson Rock: Getting to this feature of Harpers Ferry is a fun trek. You go up a set of old stone steps, past a Catholic Church that’s been there for year but is still in operation, to a beautiful look out that Thomas Jefferson noted as one of the most wonderful places he’d seen. You get a great view of the valley and both rivers. It is not a strenuous journey, and for me, is the best reason to go.
The Point: This feature is also a view of the confluence of the two rivers. It’s definitely worth seeing, and is only a few minutes off the main thoroughfares as you wander around town.
Appalachian Trail: America’s great hiking trail passes directly through Harpers Ferry, and you’ll have the opportunity to walk over the river alongside a train track that is very nostalgic and very unique. This was my favorite view of the area and shouldn’t be missed.
What We Didn’t Do:
There are several satellite areas of the National Historic Site that we didn’t have time to visit, and just about every restaurant looks great and has a John Denver-based name. I felt like we could have easily spent a long weekend in the park, and loved it. There might not have been a ton more for the kids to do, but as a couple, I think we would make a really nice getaway spot.
After our exhausting trip with Alyson’s family to four fabulous Hawai’ian islands, which we thankfully left prior to the wildfires, you might think that we’d be ready to relax, and you would be right. It was not to be, for less than a month later, we set off with the extended side of my family for a trip to another of the country’s least visited states, Maine.
Getting to and from Maine is no easy task, especially the part to which we were headed, Acadia. We actually ended up flying in and out of Providence late on a Saturday, where we spent the night. We woke early the next morning, and added about an hours drive to our trips by driving into Putnam, CT, where we got breakfast The Painted Baker.
You might ask yourself, was this detour really worth it, considering one could just fly into Portland, ME? Well, much like Obi-wan’s explanation for the existence of Luke’s father, it depends on your point of view. Certainly this took us longer, although it was cheaper, but it also allowed us to visit Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts and New Hampshire. While I had already been through all of the Northeast, not everyone else in my family was in the same boat, and checking off New England is no easy task. Not for nothing, the breakfast at the Painted Baker was pretty fantastic.
The rest of the day found us in the car making our way to Acadia National Park, and our VRBO in Northeast Harbor. The house we got was perfectly acceptable, aside from the live mouse we found in a mousetrap, but I should warn that recently, almost every house we’ve gotten hasn’t quite lived up to the pictures on the internet. Be sure to read the comments thoroughly and temper your expectations.
My entire immediate family was presents, so our plans had to be catered to many different age and ability levels. We have come to the conclusion that on these types of vacations, the thing to do is make your own plans for the day, and then all get together for dinner at night. Everything we did, we invited whomever was interested, and sometimes we have company, sometimes we didn’t. This way, we didn’t miss out on anything we wanted to do, and weren’t always on our own, but had plenty of time to hit all of our highlights.
For the purposes of this blog and readability, I am going to try a different format, listing the things we did, the places we went, and how we felt about them, instead of going in a more narrate format. Let’s see how it goes:
Hikes:
Great Head Trail: This 1.4 mile loop, I believe, was my favorite of the trip. There are two different trail heads, one with a parking lot and another at the Sand Beach. Frankly, it was not all that easy to find, but once we found it, it was worthwhile. I recommend going clockwise from the beach, and about halfway through, making your way down to a large stone outcropping at the beach. We were completely alone for about half an hour watch the waves crash in. You have to figure this part out for yourself, as it is slightly off trail, but it is very much worth it.
Duck Harbor Trail: This trail is on Isle au Haut, a much less visited portion of the park. I suggest you make time to get over there. We took the ferry and exited at the Town Landing, where there is a ranger station and shop. The whole family made this trek, about 4 miles in all, down to Duck Harbor, where the ferry picked us back up. Be sure you come prepared with water and food, as there is little development here. And be sure to plan it for a whole day, as getting back and forth is reliant upon the boat schedule. This hike is not super strenuous in terms of elevation, but it is a solid trek, so be prepared with older or younger participants.
Beehive Trail: Certainly, when researching Acadia, you will come across this trail, as well as the Precipice Trail (which was closed during our visit due to falcon nesting). This is a can’t miss, but definitely requires some level of physical fitness. It includes a lot of climbing and rock scrambling. We left the younger kids with the grandparents, none of whom would have done too well. We went early, as this trail gets crowded, and their was still a back-up a the top, primarily due to an overweight, older human overestimating his abilities. This is an incredible hike, a ton of fun, and must do. Our 11 year old had no difficulty.
Ship Harbor Trail: This trail, on the west side of the park, in Southwest Harbor, was a lot of fun. It was a little rocky, but flat throughout. My 70 year old parents joined us on this hike, and while they were a bit slower, they managed without difficulty. This is less than 2 miles round trip, offers great rocky ocean expanses and plenty of opportunities to explore multiple, colorful tide pools. The kids also discovered several inland areas perfect for skipping rocks, something that has evidently become one of their favorite past times.
The Bubble: The North and South Bubbles trails overlook Acadia and Jordan Pond, and are definitely worth your time. Both Bubbles can be approached from the same trailhead, and if you go left to being with, you will summit the South Bubble and end at Bubble Rock, which is pretty impressive. Do not fear, an entire football team tried to push this rock over, but it won’t budge. If you don’t mind back tracking, you can then find the approach up the North Bubble, which leads to a beautiful view of the park. We stopped at the peak, which made the trail about 1.5 miles, but it goes on for quite some time.
Raven’s Nest: This is one of the hidden gems in Acadia, and hard to even find information about online. It’s a great stop along the road around the Schoodic Peninsula. In order to find it, you have to park in the third pull off on the left, once you’ve started the drive. To be clear, it is not the third pull off overall, but the third one on the left side of this one way road. Once you park, take the unmarked trail across the road down to the coast, where you’ll find incredible views and amazing sites. It’s hard to find, but don’t skip this.
Restaurants:
Side Street Cafe: This adorable, quintessential Maine cafe is, as you would expect, off the beaten path in Bar Harbor. We sat outside, with a nice view of the area, and had a terrific meal. There was something for everyone, including a lobster roll, a lobster mac and a lobster melt. Prepare yourself that everything in Maine is expensive, but this was a great option and very kid friendly. The waiter was also very helpful in providing us with several viable hiking options.
Bar Harbor Beer Works: This was actually a harbor of last resort for us. We were wandering around Bar Harbor on a Friday, and the city was packed. Every place we checked out had an hour+ wait, but the Beer Works didn’t open until noon, and as we were the first ones in, there was no wait. The fare was classic beer/bar food, with a pretzel for JR, fish and chips for me, etc. We ate there with my parents, and while it wasn’t the best meal I had on vacation, it was a great stop for what we were doing.
Colonel’s Restaurant and Bakery: Some member of my family ate at this establishment at least once/day. It was within walking distance to our VRBO and serves all four meals, plus a bar. The breakfast is great; bagel sandwiches, donuts, etc. They have wonderful pizzas, salads and sandwiches, and the full bar was a lot of fun on Friday night.
Bunker’s Seafood and Spirits: Bunker’s (who doesn’t have a website) is a nice little waterfront restaurant at the end of the Schoodic Island road. This little visited part of the park is beautiful and remote, and this restaurant with standard (expensive) fare, is a perfect way to cap off your trip.
Fish Net: This adorable little lobster pound really hit the spot on our way back from Isle Haut. For those not familiar, the term ‘pound’ simply means shack or shop or house; basically, a place to get lobsters. There was plenty of outdoor seating, and plenty of good food. I recommend hitting as many pounds, and adding as many pounds, as you can.
Excursions:
Bar Harbor: No trip to Acadia would be complete without a visit to Bar Harbor. On the Northeast side of the main island, this area is touristy, but offers a lot. There are many interesting looking restausrants, shops and tour groups. It is definitely worth your time, but for me, not that much of it.
Sea Prince Boat Tour: There are multiple different boat tour options around Acadia that offer varying experiences. You should definitely do some research beforehand to find the one that best serves your group. We found one that left near our house, and that was less than two hours, which was perfect for the kids. It took us out on the water where got to see porpoises and seals, and learn a lot about the history, and the present, of the area.
Carriages of Acadia: There is a stable within the park that offers carriage rides along the carriage roads. This honestly wasn’t the most exciting part of our trip, but it is a fun way to see the interior of the park and learn a lot about its history.
Cadillac Mountain: You can hike this mountain, if you like, or drive to the summit. Driving requires reservations during peak season, which can only be obtained at certain times in advance on reservations.gov. We got a pass for a sunrise drive, which required getting up at about 4 am. Eileen loves a sunrise though, so we couldn’t miss it. Cadillac Mountain’s claim to fame is that it’s the first sunrise in the continental US, which is pretty cool. Unfortunately, it was super overcast during our visit, so the sunrise wasn’t all that spectacular, but I am still glad that we went.
Thunder Hole: This is an interesting and always crowded part of Acadia NP. It’s basically a narrow inlet into which the tide crashes in, creating a thunderous sound. The best time to visit is 2 hours prior to high tide, but it is always pretty cool. When we were there, we never heard anything that I would equate to thunder, but the spray from the surf was pretty epic at times. It is very crowded, and along a path that leads to other interesting areas, but it’s also basically just a sidewalk. I recommend trying for a spot in the parking lot, as the rest of it might not be super worth it.
Jordan Pool House: It was hard to decide whether this is a trail, a restaurant or an excursion, but it is worth your time. I suggest calling ahead and making a reservation for early afternoon. We arrived at around 2 pm and walked the loop around Jordan Pond, about 3 miles. While there are few elevation changes, this trail is still strenuous, but very rewarding. Afterwards, we grabbed our table at the Pool House for popovers (the kids’ were covered with ice cream) and a few beers. It was a great way to spend an afternoon.
Our trip, which last most of a week, was a lot of fun. We could have filled two or three more days without repeating anything. The few must do’s are the Beehive and a boat tour. If at all possible, I strongly recommend getting to both Isle au Haut and Schoodic, which are far less crowded as the main island a quite beautiful. Next up for us, as far as I know, is our yearly Labor Day trip to Gulf Shores.
