Category: City Vacation

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I Call It ‘Johio’

We decided to follow a similar script as last year for Easter and center our journey around seeing a baseball game. The Cardinals were playing in Milwaukee, and having already visited that unimpressive stadium, we decided to look elsewhere. I was hoping that both the Red Sox and Yankees had home series, but that also was not meant to be.

So where did that leave us? Cleveland…

Cleveland, you say? According to Mark Twain, America has only three great cities: New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.

While it is hard to disagree with America’s greatest novelist, there are actually reasons to visit Ohio’s second largest metropolis, which I shall proceed to detail below.

As in recent years, our eldest ditched us for a Spring Break in Seaside, where one of her drunk friends proceeded to haver at for evidently no reason. My hope is that this experience will lead her to joining us again next year, but we shall see.

So the remaining four us set off for Cleveland on Satuday morning, and arrived just after noon. We were hoping to try Slyman’s Deli, but it is closed on the weekends. Instead, we settled for a wonderful Michael Simon BBQ restaurant called Mabel’s. It’s in a really interesting, revitalized area of downtown, and the food is excellent. At the waitress’s suggestion, we just ordered one large plate of meats and two sides, which was more than enough for our family to share. As far as I can recall, this was my first time eating at the restaurant of an Iron Chef.

In the early afternoon, we drove up to Lake Eerie, the third Great Lake I have seen, and spent about two hours at arguably Cleveland’s most iconic attraction, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. Located by the football stadium on the shores of the lake, this is an impressive building slightly reminiscent of the Louvre.

We purchased tickets ahead of time, and made our way down to the first of six floors. Every leve has its own experiences, from exhibits specific to The Beatles and The Who to the Wall of Plaques to a Pink Floyd’s The Wall theater to a live band karaoke experience.

JR and I agreed that our favorite part was the Hall of Plaques that featured every band or individual inducted, starting in 1986. It actually came as a surprise to both of us that the first class was so recent, but it was very cool to see. My son was disappointed at the lack of Fall Out Boy representation (a feeling I shared in reference to the Gin Blossoms), but eligibility begins 25 years after an artists initial commercial release, so Pete still has a few years to go.

After checking into our hotel, we headed out to Progressive Stadium to watch the Guardians eventually lose to the Brewers. This was the 10th home stadium in which I have seen a game, and I have really enjoyed expanding my baseball horizons. That said, from the outside, the Guardian’s stadium is one of the most unimpressive and downright ugly ballparks I have ever seen.

Fortunately, this was just a poor first impression, because from the inside, the open air complex is quite lovely, a fine place to catch a game. If you are going to see an outdoor game in early April, please prepare appropriately. We all had several lays, including doubled up socks, and hand warmers to get us through 2 and half hours of 40 degree baseball. We were all very thankful for the next accelerated pace of play, as it got us in and out much more efficiently than in years past.

We woke early the next morning for a hotel room Easter celebration and drove over to the Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist for an 8 am service. This building is everything you’d want from a grand cathedral: beautiful high vaulted ceilings, multiple side chapels and wonderful artwork throughout. Some of our past Easter experiences in terms of the service itself have been mediocre, but that was not the case this Sunday. The priest did a fine job of letting the gravity of the day speak for itself instead of adding a whole bunch of unneeded nonsense during the homily.

After finishing up just under an hour, we headed over to Betts for an Easter brunch. Betts is nothing too fancy, or too expensive, but it offers a round menu, and the food was excellent. It was exactly what was needed prior to beginning the second leg of our Ohio trip which would take us into Cuyahoga Valley National Park.

CVNP is perhaps the most uniquely positioned National Park of the current 63. The Arch is directly in the middle of downtown St. Louis, Hot Springs is basically a city in-and-of itself, Saguaro encircles Tucson, but Cuyahoga is by far the most suburban national park that we have visited.

The borders meander, and you’ll find that some of the most interesting sites in the park are within a hundred yards of an interstate or a Pure Barre. If you love the secluded, lost wilderness of the big parks out West, you might not enjoy Cuyahoga, but it is super-accessible and offers some breathtaking experiences, even if you’re only a short walk from the nearest fro-yo stand.

The park is a refuge for native plants and wildlife, and winds along the Cuyahoga River, giving way to deep forests, rolling hills and open farmlands. Our first stop was at the Boston Mills Visitors center to get the lay of the land and get our passport book stamped. At this stage, we were heading into the early afternoon, so our plan was to do just one solid hike before getting dinner.

The first trek we endeavored was the Brandywine Falls Trail, one of the most popular trails in the park. On a beautiful Sunday afternoon, the paths were unsurprisingly crowded, but there are a few notes to help amplify your experience. For one, you don’t actually have to do the hike to see the falls. The falls are located at the end of the loop, which basically starts and ends in the parking lot. If you are not much a hiker, this is a great park, as there are many attractions that can basically be driven to without having to endure the cheap showiness of nature

However, we decided to trek the 1.5 mile trail, which was quite lovely and not particularly strenuous. If you also make this decision, I highly recommend taking the trail in the clockwise direction. This way, you finish with the boardwalks that lead to this amazing waterfall, instead of seeing the payout at the beginning.

The fall itself is quite wonderful, albeit right next to the road, and the system of boardwalks set up around it offer visitors the chance to see the falls from multiple different angles. I think for most folk, if you were just going to do one thing in Cuyahoga, Brandywine Falls would be it.

Before dinner, we had about two hours to kill, so we made use of some of the other sights in Cuyahoga that are not far off the road. The first of which was the Everett Covered Bridge. The area is calm and quiet, and the old fashioned covered bridge is certainly quite quaint.

Another great feature of Cuyahoga, which can include a long walk or a short one from a nearby parking lot, is Deer Lick Cave. This is really more of an overhang than a legit cave, but it is a very impressive feature of this park. We didn’t do the actual hike, but the short version leads to a creek with several small cascades and multiple small alcoves that the kids can explore. It was a great way to end our day in the park.

We struggled that evening finding a place to eat, as most of the restaurants we had researched were closed for Easter. We settled on the Ohio Brewing Company and were not disappointed. Very family friendly, this brew pub offers your standard brewery foods: pretzels, burgers, chicken sandwiches, etc. The food was solid, and the beers were excellent, good enough to bring a couple back to the hotel with us.

That night, we stayed in a Holiday Inn Express in the city of Richfield, one of the suburbs that borders CVNP. The hotel was fine, and there are limited lodging accommodations in the park itself. There is the Brandywine Inn, which looks nice but inexplicably won’t allow visitors under 5 years of age, and the Stanford House, which would have required us to book the entire 9 bedroom building, a bit more than we needed. There are plenty of nearby hotels, and while they don’t offer the experience of actually staying the park, they get the job done.

Our flight home on Monday wasn’t until the evening, and park is less than half an hour from the airport, so we attempted to see as much of the rest of the park as possible. There is a train that can take one throughout the Cuyahoga Valley area, but it was out of service during our stay, so we stuck with the rental car.

Our second day in the park started out back at the Boston Mills Visitors Center, a location which also includes the Blue Hen Falls trail head. This trail is about a 3 mile out and back, relatively strenuous hike. It starts with an arduous ascent up several stairs leading away from the Visitors Center, and included three separate up and downs.

It is a challenging hike, and is often in very close proximity to several main roads, but the payoff is absolutely worth it. As you approach the falls, the traffic noises fade away, and you will find yourself encountering one of the parks wonderfully secluded gems. We started this trek early, so had the run of the falls.

There is a scenic overlook, but if you are adventuresome (and willing to stray a bit off the trail), you can get right to mouth of the falls. This was my favorite part of the trip, and I think JR and Clara spent about half an hour hanging around on the cataract, trying to skip rocks.

We had one more hike that we wanted to attempt, and decided to take only a short break between the two. There was one other brewery that we hoped to sample, and figured that if we knocked out both hikes before 2 pm, we could grab a beer with a late lunch.

The Ledges is the last of the major attractions in Cuyahoga, and is definitely one that you won’t want to miss. This is basically a 2.5 mile lollipop loop from a centrally located parking lot. I strongly recommend taking the loop clockwise as, again, this leaves the most impressive parts of the trail for the end.

The Ledges is a series of interconnecting trails that take hikers up and around a plateau and series of, well, ledges that are quite impressive. Whilst on this trail, be sure that you take the path that goes around the outside of the stone features, called the Octagon. If you stay on top of the plateau, you miss out on a lot of the most interesting features, and have to be below the ledges at the end to experience the Ice Box.

Our last stop in Ohio, aside from the airport, was a brew pub in Peninsula, OH, call the Winking Lizard. This is a cute little brewery in a cute little town that has solid food, good beer and a great atmosphere. It was really a nice way to put an end to our trip.

We really enjoyed Cuyahoga Valley and the Cleveland area. We were in Ohio for less than 72 hours, and this felt like the appropriate amount of time. If we wanted to spend more time in the National Park, it is possible to rent kayaks or horses, but we couldn’t find any guided tours. Given the amount of time we had, I feel like we really maximized our experience.

The Igoes don’t have anything on tap for May, except perhaps visiting a few friends in Fairhope over Memorial Day. The next big ticket on our docket is a late June cruise with Alyson’s family in Hawaii. Stayed tuned as we look to knock out two more National Parks and my fiftieth state.

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Keep Kalahari Weird

Last Thanksgiving, we met my parents in Gatlinburg and had the pleasure of exploring the city and Smokies over the holiday. Generally speaking, we spend Thanksgiving with one side of our family and Christmas with the other. After last year’s trip, we decided to not-so-subtly suggest that instead of spending Thanksgiving sitting in one of our parents’ houses for four days, we spend the time doing something new and fun.

Alyson’s mom/family were agreeable to this, so instead of another late November stay in San Antonio, Alyson’s mom booked a suite at a resort called Kalahari, just northeast of Austin. If you are not familiar with Kalahari, it is very similar to a Great Wolf Lodge. If you are not familiar with a Great Wolf Lodge, it is kind of like a stationary cruise ship.

Kalarahi has multiple restaurants, shops, an arcade, indoor rides and an indoor water park. It also has several outdoor pools and bars, none of which were open at this time of year. The kids were really excited to go, although Alyson and I were a bit more hesitant. It didn’t seem like the type of trip that would offer a whole lot of traditional Thanksgiving options, but we agreed that anything would be better than spending another four days sitting around doing nothing.

Our check-in was early afternoon on Wednesday, so we left New Orleans late on Tuesday night, picked up a rental car (not from Budget) and stayed at a near-by Hampton Inn. Since we got there early, we decided to use the time explore some of the sites in the greater Austin area.

Our first stop was at a waterhole called Hamilton Pool. This natural wonder was created when the dome of an underwater river collapsed thousands of years ago. Reservations are required, and from the parking lot, it is about a quarter of a mile trek down to the pool. During warmer months, people lay out, picnic and swim, but at this time of year, it was a bit too cold. It is also possible to traverse the inner rim of the pool underneath the overhang, but since the deep freeze in Texas in 2020, the area has been somewhat geologically unstable, so has been roped off.

That said, even without being able to swim or explore the entire area, I still highly recommend this impressive site. There are a lot of natural watering holes in Texas, but this one is pretty unique, quite secluded and absolutely beautiful. If you have the time, it is a can’t miss.

Afterwards, we also tried to visit Jacob’s Well, a similar natural feature not too far away, but much to our chagrin, it was closed for the entire duration of our visit, due to the holiday. It is not clear to me how a watering hole celebrates Thanksgiving, but for whatever reason, we were unable to visit.

We met Alyson’s mom in the early afternoon at the Salt Lick. If you’ve ever been to this barbecue heaven, no more need be said, but since this a blog, I will elaborate. Aside from the live music, the rustic atmosphere and the great service, the BBQ at the Salt Lick is legendary. This is a must-visit spot for anyone from Texas, anyone visiting Texas or anyone who has ever heard of Texas. The food is great, affordable, and extraordinarily representative of the barbecue culture in Texas.

At this point, we had killed enough time that we could check into our hotel, so we made our way to the resort in Round Rock. Giving credit where credit is due, check-in and unloading were extremely easy, and we found no need to valet park for, at this time of year at least, there were plenty of available, nearby self-park spots.

Every member of the party received wrist bands, which were used to activate a lot of the rides, and could be used to charge just about anything to our room. In a lot of ways, this was super convenient, but conversely, it required all of us to wear a plastic wrist band for four days.

Added to our package was what Kalahari calls Tom Foolery. The Tom Foolery area is a set of indoor activities that includes a roller coast, ropes coarse, miniature golf, a mirror maze and multiple climbing walls. It was worth adding this for about $30/person for the whole trip, as the rest of the arcade games are not included in the standard package. That evening, we ate at the internal pizza restaurant, which was perfectly acceptable, and the kids sampled all of the rides and games.

The one negative we experienced in the Tom Foolery area is that Clara, at only two, was too young to ride any of the included rides. Having taken her to several amusement parks before, there was no clear reason for this, as none of the kiddie rides would have posed her any kind of threat. Having to regularly steer her away from these areas was a pain and kind of pointless.

We woke the next morning, Thanksgiving, and headed for the water park, which is included in everyone’s package. The water park was pretty great with over a dozen slides for the big kids, a pretty impressive tree house/splash pad area for younger kids and two toddler areas for Clara. It also has its own restaurant, bar and a surfing simulator.

We spent about three hours in this area, mostly with the kids riding on their own and Alyson and I corralling Clara. She wore herself out around noon, and since we had ‘Thanksgiving dinner’ schedule for 2 pm, it felt like the right time to put her to bed.

Once Clara was down for her nap, I took JR and Eileen back down to the arcade and bought them game cards. The arcade is pretty similar to a Dave & Busters, and has multiple games that award the kids points which they can use to buy crap in the gift store. The kids loved this part, and it is a lot of fun, but $140 worth of gaming cards doesn’t last very long.

Our Thanksgiving meal was served buffet-style in one of the convention rooms. I understand that hearing this might make some of you cringe, but it was actually pretty decent. The spread was quite vast, so while some of the food was less impressive than others, a bit of searching delivered several great options.

The turkey and potatoes were great, and the kids loved the mac ‘n cheese. I found the stuffing to be a bit lacking, which is disappointing since you really only eat it once a year, but in general, this was a meal that I enjoyed.

We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the hotel suite, watching football and letting the kids mellow out. Once the Cowboys had won, and Clara had been put to bed, I took the older two back to the water park, which at this time of night, was much less crowded.

It gave Eileen and I the opportunity to ride some of the bigger, multi-person slides without having to wait half-an-hour, and they both got the chance to try the surfing simulator.

The next day, we did pretty much the same thing, minus the Thanksgiving smorgasbord, and herein lies my biggest issue with Kalahari. In the morning, we went to the water park, then got lunch at one of the resort’s restaurants. The kids went back to the arcade while Clara slept (spending another 100 bucks), and we all ate together at a different burger place. We took the kids back to the water park, and that was about it.

In terms of pure enjoyment, the kids were ecstatic on day one but by the end of day two, it had all become a bit monotonous. Water slides are fun, but once you’ve done each one five or six times, the novelty wears off. Same goes for the indoor rides and games, to the point that we actually ended up giving most of this kids’ earned points away.

The experience was great, and we all had a lot of fun, but I think one night, two tops is really the sweet spot. Beyond that, it felt like we started to run out of ways to spend our time..

With that in mind, we did try to add a few things in on the Saturday morning before we left. The resort has two escape rooms and a bowling alley. We hadn’t really thought about the escape rooms until the night before, and by the time we did, they were already booked up, but were able to get in two rounds of 10 pin before we left for the airport. Perhaps had we planned better, we might have more successfully optimized our time, but I am still convinced that one less day would have been better.

One our way to the airport, we stopped at an wonderful restaurant that offers all three sittings each day, called Walton’s Fancy & Staple. This gem on 6th street had something for everyone, and was just what we needed before flying home. We learned later that it is actually owned by Oscar winner and occasional New Orleanian, Sandra Bullock.

Our Thanksgiving trip was a lot of fun, and while as with every trip, it was not perfect, it was a lot better than sitting in a house doing very little for 72 hours. Christmas is a bit different, as a location is needed for Santa, presents, church, etc., but I feel like as a family, we are at the point where we want to maximize the value of our limited time off.

Next up, we are heading to St. Louis to meet my family for Christmas, and I doubt we will post on it. Following that, we’ve got a Mardi Gras trip in the works for the Florida Keys and Dry Tortugas, so we’ve got a lot coming up for which to look forward.

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A Day and a Half in the Big Apple

This year, we made plans to spend a week with my family in upstate New York, in the Cooperstown area. Since the house my mom booked wasn’t available until Monday, July 4th, we decided to head up early on Saturday and spend a 36 (or so) hours in the city that never sleeps.

Please keep in mind that since our time was quite brief, we tried to cram as much in as we could, so if this all sounds overly touristy, that is because it was. We landed in LaGuardia, which has just been remodeled but is still very poorly labeled, and took a rental car to our hotel, a DoubleTree in Chelsea.

We had actually hoped to make it Hamilton Grange that first afternoon, but it took us so long to get the rental car, mostly due to LGA not being labeled, that our time ran out. Our main activity for the day was to watch the Mets lose to the Rangers, and we did not want to be late.

Once we were settled in the hotel, we spent about half an hour trying to figure out the subway, and after going the wrong direction once, made our way back to Queens. Alyson and I watched a game at Shea Stadium during our honeymoon in 2006, and while I’ll grant that Shea was an iconic field, our seats didn’t offer views of about 40% of the field. The new Citi Field Stadium isn’t any more impressive than most of the new era ballparks, Atlanta, Milwaukee Colorado, but it is clean, has plenty of amenities and there isn’t a bad seat in the house.

The Mets lost, which always makes me happy, and the game featured half a dozen home runs, so it was a fun day. This is the 8th different home stadium in which I’ve seen a game, and the 7th for my son. We have unintentionally set ourselves down the path of trying to see a home game for all 30 teams, so I guess we are on our way.

We took the subway back into Manhattan and spent the next hour wandering around Times Square. The experience was very similar to when Alyson and I were there 15 years ago. Lots of people, lights of sights and sounds and smells, and not a place where I have interest in spending much time. The kids enjoyed it though, and it is certainly an experience worth having.

The next morning, we ate breakfast in the hotel and headed back to the underground and to mass at St. Patrick’s Cathedral. What a spectacular church, very reminiscent of the cathedral in DC. Not only is the church beautiful, but it has a dozen or so side chapels that are just as inspiring. If you like grand, classic church architecture, you should visit St. Patrick’s.

After church, we walked a few blocks to 30 Rock, where we took an elevator up the Top of the Rock to take in the panoramic views of the city. The observation decks offer amazing perspectives of Manhattan, and if you don’t live in a city with lots of over-large buildings, it is really a sight to behold.

That said, I do take issue with these types of tours. It is required that timed tickets are purchased in advance, but it has little to do with when one is actually allowed to enter. We arrived right at 9, when it opened, the time printed on our tickets, and still had to wait in a line that wrapped all the way around the block. The views from the top were totally worth it, but be prepared to wait.

We next took the subway up to Central Park, where we rented bikes for two hours and made our way around the entire park, both the lower and upper loops. This was such a fun ride and such a fun park but you should keep in mind that the north end of the park, in particular, has some very steep uphills that actually required us to hop off and walk at certain times.

All the toil was made worthwhile when arrived to find no line at the Levain Bakery, and had one of the largest, tastiest chocolate chip cookies that I have yet to experience. We returned the bikes, hopped back on public transportation and made our way towards Pier 83.

Why Pier 83 specifically, you ask? That is where we were to meet the boat that would take us on a scenic tour along the river. Prior to that, we grabbed lunch at a local deli. Keep in mind, a lot of the top rated deli’s in this area, Hell’s Kitchen, do not actually have any seating, so we stopped at this first place where we could sit and relax for a bit, at Cafe Aroma.

This was really more of a breakfast place than a deli, but they had several great sandwiches that we all enjoyed. From there, we walked down to the pier and boarded a boat for our tour with Circle Line Cruises.

Our initial intention with this was to take a boat to visit the Statue of Liberty. Unfortunately, at this point in time, a tourist can go up into the pedestal but not to the crown. Because of this, we decided to take a tour that passes by the Statue and Ellis Island, but also goes to other areas of New York.

This tour was great, very similar to one that we took in Chicago; it had snacks, drinks and was very informative. This kind of tour is a great way to see a lot of the city at once and learn a lot about its history.

At this point, we took a bus (our first of this trip) to a subway, which got us underwater all the way to Brooklyn. Why did we go to Brooklyn, you ask? We let me tell you. You may or may not be aware that one can actually walk across the Brooklyn bridge, and one of the entrances is on the Brooklyn side.

With a slight bit of down-playing the difficultly of the walk, the kids were convinced to climb the stairs and make the one-mile trek across the iconic span. The hike is about a mile, and the first half, unsurprisingly, is uphill. This might have been my favorite part of our New York trip. The bridge is packed with tourists and vendors and provides really cool views of the amazing city skyline.

The reason we went from the Brooklyn side was that the exit into Manhattan is very close to Ground Zero. Eileen had been asking a lot of questions about September 11th recently, so we thought this was a good time to visit. The area is very well-done and very inspiring. We only spent about an hour there, and didn’t get to go into the museum, as it was closed, but coming to New York and not seeing it didn’t feel quite right.

That night, we grabbed pizza at a nearby spot called Rosella’s. Similar to the deli’s in Hell’s Kitchen, it actually took us a bit of time to find a pizza place where we could sit and eat. They didn’t serve alcohol, which was a bummer, but the pizza was classic New York-style, exactly for what we were looking.

We made it back to the hotel and bedded down for the night, planning to squeeze in just a few more city hours before we headed upstate. The next morning, we skipped hotel breakfast and ate at a nearby shop called the Bagel Pub. I think this was my favorite meal eaten in New York. They have classic bagels with all sorts of toppings and fillings for all ages and taste profiles. I could have eaten every meal in the Bagel Pub, gotten something different each time, and been quite happy.

We jumped on a train again and headed uptown to a place called the Museum of Ice Cream. This was Eileen’s idea, and was actually a little different than what you might expect, based upon the name. There was a lot of ice cream, but there were also several activities and museum features that were fun and interesting.

There is a hallway that chronicles the history of ice cream, as well as New York’s longest indoor slide and a ball pit filled with ice cream sprinkles. These types of museums have started popping up in larger cities, places that are experiences more than museums themselves, like the Hopscotch Museum in San Antonio or the City Museum in St. Louis. These experiences are really not city-specific, but they are good ways to fill your time and keep the kids engaged.

The last stop we made before checking out heads north was a Katz Deli. This New York icon can actually be a little overwhelming (and a little expensive), but if you take your time and figure out what it is you want, it is totally worth the effort. The kids got burgers off the kids menu, which were nothing special, but the pastrami sandwich that Alyson and I split was enormous and delicious.

This trip was a bit of a whirlwind, and there are still things in the city that I would like to do, but I feel like we did as much as we could to maximize our time in the Big Apple. I do not think that New York is a place that I could ever live, but when it comes to visiting, it certainly has a lot to offer.

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RVing Through the Northwest

Since our initial RV trip through the Southwest in 2019, the Traveling Igoes have been itching to get back in a big rig and hit the open road. We had big plans for 2020, but a certain virus had even bigger ones.

When 2021 finally came along, and we all got vaccinated (at least those who could), we rebooted our travel plans. I had never been to Yosemite before, and no one in my immediate family had ever visited Oregon, so we decided this was the perfect opportunity.

The planning for a trip like this is pretty labor intensive, and by the end, we had about 70 pages worth of itinerary put together. After picking the dates, the next thing to do was pick the route. We decided to fly into San Francisco and pick up a recreation vehicle. From there, we would drive north along the coast through Redwood Forest, into Oregon and Crater Lake. We would then head back south through Lassen Volcanic National Park and Yosemite, and finish back in San Fran.

Beyond that, the trip would lie in the details. Once we figured out our dates (11 days in total) and our course, the next thing to do was to find the right rig. Two years ago, we found a great RV through Outdoorsy, so that’s where we started. We actually found the perfect fit for our family. A 24 foot truck with no slide outs, with unlimited mileage and generator use included. Unfortunately, about a month prior to leaving, this RV flooded, and our proprietor had to cancel.

Outdoorsy helped us find another option, which was a very similar 24′ Winnebago, the only difference being that this one was made in 1999. It had almost all 5-star reviews save one, that claimed it was old, dingy and worn down, and at this point, we had very few options. When we arrived, it seemed that all the reviews were accurate. Gertie (as we named her) was a reliable old bird with countless dings, scratches and stains. That said, she ran well, stopped alright and got us from point A to point B on time.

We landed in San Francisco, picked up Gertie and headed north. Our first stop was at the Full House house in the heart of the city. My daughter, a huge fan of Fuller House, was very excited. I found it rather pointless, but the main reason we take these trips is to bring joy to our kids, so if it makes Eileen happy, I can spare 30 minutes.

From there, we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and stopped on the north side for a picture. It was really impressive, shrouded in fog, but this point was also one of my biggest regrets. On the south side of the bridge is Fort Point, a spot where the kids can get their passport books stamped. We missed the turnoff, and in Gertie, it was too hard to make our way back. It was still really cool, but I not getting that stamp will eat at me.

We loaded back up and headed another hour north to Muir Woods. What a great introduction to what we were going to see. The approach was a big white knuckle-y in an RV, but once we got there, we realized how worthwhile is Muir Woods. Protected since 1908, this primeval forest is both refuge and laboratory, filled with old growth Redwoods reaching for the sun. In order to access this site at the time, parking reservations are needed, so definitely look into getting these well in advance. We did not spend a ton of time in Muir, but it was a great appetizer for a trip filled with some of the most amazing trees in the world.

Our next stop was at the Olema Campground, an RV park with easy access to Point Reyes National Seashore. This site had electrical hook ups, but nothing else, but for this trip, that was something. For those of you unfamiliar, RVs can hook up to electricity, water and a dumping station. While this is not vital, having hook ups does make life quite a bit easier.

In the morning, we met up with our guide, Frank, in Point Reyes, for what he refers to as a Point Reyes Safari. We followed him throughout the park, riding behind him in our truck, visiting various different parts of the site. We first visited the Cypress Tree Tunnel, which is really impressive, and something similar to what you see at old southern plantations.

From there, he took us to the Point Reyes Lighthouse. It was very unexpected how cool this would be. It is a trek to get there, and I doubt we would have done it if not for Frank, but if you go, this is the must-see part of Point Reyes. This lighthouse is so cool and so remote, it feels like something out of a fantasy novel.

The only thing I will say is that it was not super clear what we had gotten ourselves into with the safari. We thought it was going to be something like an off-road, UTV tour. Instead, we were following a Subaru around in our RV. It ended up being great; we saw plenty of elk and coyotes, but it is not exactly what I thought it was going to be.

Once we finished at Point Reyes, being sure to get our books stamped, we drove to the south end of Redwood National Park and spent the night at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. This was by far the most amazing site in which we stayed. It was right on the beach, and the seascape looked like something out of a painting. The site recommended no vehicles larger than 24 feet, which worked for us, but I think they were being generous. The approach was extremely treacherous, there were no hook-ups, and we felt super out of place around all the small tents.

We made it through the night though, and headed for Fern Canyon. This hidden gem is wild to the point that parts of Jurassic Park were actually filmed here. The canyon is covered wall to wall with greenery, and can really only be called jaw-dropping. It is not simple to access, but it is certainly worth the effort. If you want to experience something that few have, something very different than anything I have ever seen, Fern Canyon is a great place to start.

We made our way out of the canyon and stopped at another one of the can’t-miss spots in Redwoods, Trillium Falls Trail. This is approximately a 2.5 mile loop which leads to a cool, but small waterfall. You should not let the size of the fall deter you, however, as this trail is beautiful start to finish. The one thing I would suggest is to start in the direction that has you finishing with the falls instead of starting with it. Saving the payoff for the end makes this trail all the more worthwhile.

We stopped at the Elk Creek Visitor Center to get our books stamped and pick up the Junior Ranger packets. This packet was straight forward, and the kids were able to finish it that day. Our next stop up the road was at the Trees of Mystery. The trip through the vast Redwood National and State Park area is littered with roadside attractions, and Trees of Mystery really caught our attention.

It is definitely a little kitschy and touristy, in sort of a Gravity Falls type of way, but my son really loved it. There are several aerial walkways that take you up into the trees, a bunch of really cool carvings out of the Paul Bunyan legend and a sky-tram that takes you several hundred feet up into the mountains. There is also a perfectly serviceable restaurant attached, which for those eating out of an RV fridge, really hit the spot. There was nothing overwhelmingly great about the Trees of Mystery, but my 9 year-old son really like it, and it was a welcome break from all the hiking (and driving).

We got back on the road and stopped at the north end of the park, at the Hiouchi Visitor Center, where the kids picked up their first of four National Park Junior Ranger badges. We spent that night in a KOA, with full hook ups, which was a nice break (and the only one). We have really enjoyed the KOAs in our two RV trips. The sites are not usually as unique or memorable, but it is nice to have a full set amenities. It makes roughing it in a camper not quite so rough.

The following morning, we met up with the guide from Redwood Rides, who took Eileen, JR and I kayaking on the Smith River. Clara was too young to go, so Alyson took her for a hike while we hit the water. JR and I were in a tandem kayak, which worked out well for him, whilst Eileen was on her own.

As this was the dry season, the river was not too high or too fast, but it was very scenic and a lot of fun. At one point, we stopped at a rock that Eileen jumped off of, and at another, we took a hike through Stout Grove, which was pretty impressive. I have been on more exciting rivers before, but had we been there in April or May, I think the water would have been a lot faster.

At this point, it was time to cross the border and mark off another state for our entire family. That afternoon, we crossed into Oregon for the first time for all of us. Our first stop was at a little visited Parks site, the Oregon Caves National Monument. I am a huge fan of caves, so I was really looking forward to this visit, but unfortunately, it was an extraordinary disappointment.

The caves only recently reopened and require guided, ticketed tours. At this stage, the tickets are only available day of, and cannot be purchased in advance. When we arrived, all of the tickets for the day were sold out. I understand the need for social distancing, but as we walked a decent hike in the park, it became clear that total, there were no more than 10 people in the entire area. Further, only offering tickets first come, first serve makes it nearly impossible for anyone from out of the area to visit. I wish I could say we will go back someday, but it does not seem very likely. Out of everything we did this trip, this was by far our biggest letdown.

We made our way from the Caves of Disappointment northwest towards Crater Lake, and stayed the night in Mazama Campground. This camp was very rustic, but it provided great access to the park. The next morning, we loaded up the RV and headed into Crater Lake.

Crater Lake is arguably the most beautiful place that I have ever been. That said, there is not actually all that much to do there. We drove the rim, which is about 30 miles around, and offers multiple amazing viewpoints. We stopped at one of the more frequently used trails, the Cleetwood Cove, which leads from the rim down to the lake itself.

During regular times, this is where you can pick up the boat that tours that lake and takes passengers all the way to Wizard Island. Due to COVID, it is not running this year; had it been, this certainly would have added something extra to our visit. The Cleetwood trail is beautiful, but the way back up, in particular, is extremely strenuous.

We followed this by completing our Junior Ranger packets and getting badges for the kids. We then traveled about an hour south to Crater Lake Ziplines. Eileen and JR love ziplining, so we always try to work this into our trips, if it’s possible.

Crater Lake Ziplines actually requires that you break yourself, so JR was not old enough to do the big zips. That said, they offer a smaller course for kids under 10 and under 70 pounds. He was a little disappointed, but once he got over himself, he seemed to have a great time. If you ask Eileen, she will tell you this was her favorite part of our entire vacation.

We spent another night in Mazama, then headed south back to California. Our next two stops were definitely my two favorite. Our first was at Lava Beds National Monument. This was a late addition to our itinerary, so we were not really sure what to expect. Frankly, it blew me away.

I think everyone else enjoyed it, but I loved this site. I could have spent an entire week exploring this vast network of caves. Volcanic eruptions in this area from past millennia have created a rugged, unique landscape with over 800 caves. We only had time to explore two, the Mudpot and Valentine caves. These caves, former lava tubes, are different than caves like Mammoth or Oregon, and are each unique. The park rates them based upon difficulty, so the two we did were more kid friendly. Like I said, I love a good cave, and could have spent a week at Lava Beds, but we had to move on.

The next stop on our whirlwind tour was Lassen Volcanic National Park. Compared to the other three National Parks we hit, I knew very little about Lassen, but have to say that of the four big parks, I enjoyed it the most. When we arrived, we went straight from the Visitor Center to the Kings Creek Trail. This is a hike that goes on for miles, but about 1.5 miles in, you realize why you came. The trail follows Kings Creek as it meanders across the park, and a great stopping point is the Kings Creek Falls, a stunning cataract that you can explore almost to the very precipice. On the way back, I strongly encourage you to take the left hand, one-way trail. While it is a tough climb up a few hundred stairs, it is one of the best parts of the hike.

We spent that night in the Manzanita Lake Campground, another rustic RV park, but it gave us great, quick access to Lassen. The following morning, we headed back into the park, turned in our packets for Junior Ranger badges, and went straight to the Bumpass Hell trailhead. My son was very excited about this, as, according to him, the name contains two swear words.

This trail is about a three-mile round trip, and while the hike is not as stunning as Kings Creek, the payoff is equally as impressive. Bumpass Hell is a live area of geothermal activity. It reminded me a lot of Yellowstone; there are boiling mudpots, acidic pools and sulfur fumes everywhere. It is a really stunning site, and it makes one wonder how long it must have taken Mr. Bumpass to find it so many years ago. We all loved our visit, and if I had to pick one National Park to go to, it would be Lassen.

We left Bumpass and Lassen, and headed into Chico, where we met my uncle for lunch at Nash’s. It was great to see family, and on a trip like this, getting the opportunity to eat something for lunch other than turkey on white bread was a welcome change of pace.

The next leg of our trip finally brought us to the grand prize, Yosemite. This park is a spectacular gem on the ring finger of the National Parks system. The valley is about as cool a place as you will find anywhere in the U.S. That said, we went in what is really the off season, so a lot of the water had dried up. While it may have been the off season, it was also extremely crowded, and in some ways, reminded me more of Disneyworld than a National Park.

Our first two hikes were Lower and Upper Yosemite Falls. The lower falls was still a trickle, but unfortunately, the Upper was completely dry. The hike on the Upper Falls trail, to Columbia Rock, is still a great one, with an amazing view of Half Dome, but it is quite strenuous.

After this, we spent sometime in Yosemite Village and picked up our Junior Ranger packets. This was one of my biggest frustrations. Since we started with our passport books and Junior Ranger badges, we have visited 47 National Park sites. Thus far, Yosemite has been the only park to charge for them. As this is one of the most visited parks in the world, I found this to be completely ridiculous, and certainly let the park rangers there know how I felt.

We left the park that afternoon, only about a mile out, to go horseback riding. All the guided tours inside the park are currently suspended, but this trail ride right on the perimeter was really cool, with several river crossings. The guides from Yosemite Trail Rides really did a great job.

We spent that night in Yosemite, in the Wawona Campgound. This site was actually pretty mediocre, but it is within the park, so that was a big bonus. On week days, the wait to get in can be up to an hour, and on weekends, up to three, so skipping those lines was worth roughing it a bit.

The next day, we took the Mist Trail up to Vernal Falls, and this was pretty amazing. If you stop at Vernal Falls, it’s about 3 miles in and out, with the last portion being 650 very steep steps. It is definitely worth it though, as this waterfall is nothing short of spectacular. During the spring, I understand that it is common for people to get quite soaked on the trail, but even during the dry season, the fall was still a sight.

We spent the afternoon on rented bikes taking a self-guided 8 mile tour of the Valley, then headed back to camp and packed up the RV for departure. We awoke early the next morning and drove back to San Francisco, ready to leave Gertie behind.

It is important to note for those not familiar with RVing that when you return the rig, it is expected that it be full of gas and propane, but emptied of everything else. When we got back, our proprietor was very gracious, and while Gertie was not always the easiest rig to drive, she got us there and back, so I have no regrets.

We took an Uber to the Intercontinental San Francisco, a hotel that is walking distance to Oracle Park, and we headed to the Giants game. We find it nice to give the kids a break from all the hiking and outdoors-ing with something a bit more cosmopolitan. We all love watching baseball, and going to new stadiums is a lot of fun. The Giants beat the Astros, and the game featured 7 home runs, which was a lot of fun. Oracle Park is pretty cool, with the bay just beyond the right field wall, but honestly, I was less impressed than I thought I would be.

After the game, we took a bus to Ghiradelli Square, as my daughter is obsessed with their chocolates. We got ice cream, looked into the bay at Alcatraz and had dinner at San Francisco Brewing Co. Frankly, I found neither the beer nor the food to be of any particular note, but it was nice to sit outside and listen to music.

We left early the next morning and made it back to New Orleans in time to start laundry. I had to work the next day, but the kids slept much later than normal. This was the type of vacation that almost requires a follow up vacation. An RV trip is amazing, but it is also exhausting. It is a great way to spend time with your family and to see vast parts of the country in one fell swoop. If you are planning one or even considering it, please reach out. I am happy to share the things that worked for us and those that didn’t. Until then, we’ll see you next time the Igoes go a-traveling.

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Indigenous People in Philadelphia

This year, my kids’ fall break fell on the same weekend as Columbus Day, a holiday dedicated to the memory of a guy who, by all accounts, was a jerk. Regardless, we have gotten in the habit of using this long weekend to explore some of America’s greatest cities. This year, we set out for Philadelphia.

This was the first time in a while that we flew on an airline other than Southwest, and since Southwest cancelled like a billion flights, it was fortuitous. It was also the first time that we’ve ever flown on Frontier. The overall experience was positive. The flights between New Orleans and Philly were direct, which was great with a 15 month old, and super-cheap. That said, Frontier charges extra for just about everything. We prepaid for three carry-on bags (not included in the price of the flight), and we had to pay to pick our seats. Even with these extras though, it was still about $400 cheaper than the other options, and the experience, while not the best I have ever had, was perfectly satisfactory.

We landed pretty late, after 9 pm local time, picked up the rental car and headed for the Holiday Inn Express at Penn’s Landing. This wasn’t our first choice of hotel, but it was in a cool spot, and again, the price was right. Since we planned to spend little time in the hotel, it was an easy choice.

On our way in, we stopped at a hole in the wall burger place in East Passyunk (everything in Philly has an unpronounceable name) call P’unk Burger. Frankly, it wasn’t anything special, but it was open, on the way and had milkshakes, so we were all happy enough.

The next morning, we woke early (well, the baby woke us early), ate breakfast in hotel, grabbed our passport books and headed northeast to the Valley Forge National Historic Park. Less than an hour outside of Philadelphia proper is the location where General Washington and Continental Army wintered in 1777-1778. This was a critical turning point in the American Revolution in terms of confidence and morale, and in getting foreign support for the cause of colonials.

The site is vast and very inspiring. The Visitors Center is nice, but many of the displays were closed due to COVID, and the area in general seems like a great place to bike or run. We booked a guided trolley tour which hit all the main spots and stopped at some of the replica huts and Washington’s headquarters. The guide was knowledgeable and charming, and it was a really nice way to see the entire Park and learn about its history all at the same time.

The trolley passed by the Memorial Arch, but did not stop, so afterwards, we made our way back and spent a few minutes exploring what I felt like is the best part of the site. If you have time and are in the area, Valley Forge is an important landmark in American history, and the site has been very well preserved.

On our way back to town, we stopped for lunch at a brew house called Puddlers, where they serve high quality bar food and beer from the Conshohocken (pronounced ‘I don’t know’) Brewing company. The restaurant offers great outdoor seating area on the Schuylkill (pronounced ‘I don’t know’) River where Clara could run around without bothering anyone. The beer and food were as good as you’d expect from a local brewery, and we felt right at home.

That afternoon, we parked at Franklin Square where Eileen and JR took Clara on her first carousel ride, an important milestone in the life of every human child. After that, we played a round of mini-golf, which always brings out the best in the older kids, and got ice cream. Franklin Square is one of the original squares planned by William Penn, and was a fun way to spend the afternoon.

We went from there a few blocks over the Betsy Ross House. This is one of the places she lived, and it is really well-preserved. The house itself can be toured in about five minutes, but it is another interesting part of American history. I wouldn’t say this is a ‘can’t-miss’ part of the Philadelphia experience, but if you’ve got the time, it’s an interesting place in a cool part of town.

In fact, it is only a few blocks from Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest continuously lived in residential street in the country. There is a small museum on the block, although it was closed at the time of our visit, but simply walking this area is enough to get an idea as to what life was like as America began to develop as a nation.

We also had tom to swing by the Betsy Ross House, which is a small but unique museum. It did not blow any of us away, but if you have an extra 30 minutes, it is worth your time.

My older brother lives in Jenkintown (JTP!), PA, so that evening, we drove to their house and met he and his wife, daughter and son for dinner. Fun fact, my brother’s house is actually on the same block upon which Adam Golberg grew up, so that was an unexpected, added bonus.

We ate dinner at a nearby bar called The Drake (got to love the Drake). It has a nice menu and is kid friendly, and provided a good opportunity to reconnect with my brother. Since the pandemic has been raging, we have not gotten to see his branch of the family for almost two years. While this had little to do with our plan to visit Philadelphia, it was definitely an added bonus.

On Sunday morning, we enjoyed a church service at the Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul, the cede of the archdiocese of Philadelphia. This church is beautiful and awe-inspiring, and Alyson was able to purchase a great rosary from gift shop, her favorite souvenir. This blog is not meant to be a review of different church services, but this one was mediocre. The priest’s homily went on for a good 20+ minutes, primarily saying the same thing over and over. My youngest brother is currently studying to become a priest, and I reiterate to him whenever possible that 8 minutes is where you want to live. Once someone has been speaking for over 8 minutes, 75% of the audience stops paying attention. The statistic is one of which the priest on this specific Sunday, evidently, was unaware.

Despite the long winded-ness, we had plenty of time to find brunch before our next scheduled excursion. We stopped a great cafe called Sabrina’s, which had a menu that everyone enjoyed, and the portions were absurd. Of all the meals we ate, I think Alyson and I agreed that this was our favorite.

Following brunch, we walked to the ‘LOVE’ sculpture so that Eileen could get a picture for her Instaface account, then walked over the Franklin Institute. Not to be confused with Franklin Square or the Franklin House (evidently, someone important named Franklin did something important at some point in Philadelphia), the Institute is a very interactive science museum with exhibits for kids of all ages.

The elder two really liked the sports-science section, and a Gallagher-esque live show where a big hammer smashed a bunch of smaller items. The baby really liked a show put on by two oddly dressed characters who claimed to be from the future (although JR seemed skeptical). We spent about two hours in the institute, but could easily go back for two more and experience a whole set of exhibits that had to skip our first time through.

Still full from our first meal, we drove from the Franklin Institute to the Museum of the American Revolution. My brother, having never been, met us here with his two kids, and we spent the next two hours exploring. When you first enter, there is a great video that gives a succinct, twelve minute recap of the war. It obviously does not dive too deep, but it was a great overview for the kids.

The museum has an area dedicated to younger learners, and several exhibits one can tour chronologically to get a great idea as to how the war progressed. At the end, there is another video, which finishes by revealing the actual tent that George Washington used during the war. This was one of my favorite parts of the trip, and a museum that rivals things like the Smithsonian and World War 2 museums.

After that, we went to the Franklin Fountain (I’m not sure for who this is named) and go the kids milk shakes. We said good-bye to my brother and his kids, and headed back to our hotel to relax.

At one point, we were planning to eat at either Pat’s or Gino’s, but it didn’t work out this time. Years ago, I ate at Pat’s, so it would have been nice to try Gino’s for comparison, but the weather at the time was mediocre, so we decided to eat someplace with indoor seating. That said, Eileen wanted another picture for her Snapbook, so we we drove over and grabbed a few photos.

We ended up eating at Oh Brother Philly, where we got two wiz and one chick steak. It was way too much food, and it is really hard to judge where it actually ranks in terms of cheese steaks, but I really enjoyed it and would definitely go back if we were in the area again.

We flew back Monday, but our flight was not until 1 pm, so in the morning we visited the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. All of us, aside from Clara, had already visited, but none of the kids had gotten their books stamped, and JR was too little to remember. The Liberty Bell is really cool, and the approach to it has a lot of great information about more than just the bell.

Independence Hall is also really cool, and has been well-preserved. Our tour guide, Larry, was very informative and seemed to really enjoy what he was doing.

That said, this was by far my least favorite part of our trip. We have visited over 60 National Park sites and plan to visit many more, and this was the first where the park rangers were specifically unpleasant. Our guide, Larry, was great, but everyone else was rude, short and in more than one instance, downright mean, especially in regards to our one year old.

I am not going to go too greatly into detail, but it is hard to find someone who is willing to act like an @$$hole to our youngest and hard to find rangers that are more into themselves than they are into providing visitors with great experiences. It might have just been a bad day, so I will dwell no longer, but it was a very unfortunate experience.

Despite all of that, our family had a great trip. Philadelphia is so robust that we could go back and do a completely different set of excursions, and still have a great time. In terms of great American cities, Philadelphia is definitely at the top of the list. I would recommend it to anyone, from young to old, foreign or indigenous, it is a great place to visit.

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Rocky Mountain High

This summer, we followed suit and joined the crowds at one of our country’s most visited National Parks, Rocky Mountain. I could make the argument that crowds are following us, as we’ve been going hard on the NPs for the past three years, but what’s the point in that?

My wife’s mom planned a trip for the family to Colorado, but due to a work commitment, I was unable to join, and our eldest daughter, Eileen, was in camp in Alabama, so was also absent. For the first four days, my wife, son and younger daughter stayed with Alyson’s family in Vail. At some point, she may add a post about that, but I will pick up the story where that trip ended.

On Friday, I left work in Atlanta and was picked up by Alyson, JR and Clara at the Denver airport. From there, we headed north to Estes Park and the Rocky Mountains. We initially got a bit lost, and ended up at a little used entrance to the National Park called Wild Basin.

We spoke with a few locals on the trails, who mentioned that this area was a favorite of theirs because it was generally free of tourists (aside from us). There were some great sites and trials, including a cool waterfall. It does not offer the classic, breathtaking views of the greater park, but if you have the time, it is worth trying to find.

From there, we drove up to the main east entrance of the park and started across on the Trail Ridge Road. This road is the highest continuously paved road in the country, and offers spectacular panoramics at every turn.

Our first trek from east to west took place in the evening, so we didn’t stop as much as we might otherwise have. Even so, we did run across several deer, two large herds of elk and one fearless moose.

We made our way through the park and checked into the Gateway Inn, a great lodge on the west side of the park in Grand Lake. We had a quaint room with a balcony and a beautiful view of a storm rolling in over the mountains. It also houses the O-a Bistro, which caters to bother locals and hotel guests. The bistro is nothing spectacular, but it has a nice menu and a full bar, and the staff at this hotel and restaurant are about as nice a group of people as I have ever come across.

The next morning, we got up with the baby and headed out for a quick hike to Adams Falls. This trail, like Wild Basin, is off the main road of the National Park, but is just an amazing experience. It is less than a mile round trip and the payoff is spectacular. The falls are easily accessible and incredibly beautiful. The area is minimally trafficked to the point that we basically had the falls to ourselves.

We got back to the car and headed back across the Rockies, again on the Trail Ridge Road. We made a quick stop for a picture, and for JR to record a video for his YouTube channel, at the Continental Divide, and then headed for the Alpine Visitors’ Center.

We stamped our books, got our Junior Ranger booklets and headed up the mountain. The Alpine Ridge Trail does not look all that daunting, but it goes straight to 12,000+ feet. The air thins and the legs tire, but the payoff at the top is worth the effort. The 360 degree view of these monstrous is incomparable.

Our last stop before we left the park was Bear Lake. This area is heavily trafficked, and it took us several times through the parking lot to find a spot, but it was worth the effort. From the lot, we did a two mile out-and-back hike to Alberta Falls. This is a much more heavily visited fall than Adams, but perhaps even more breathtaking. The water thunders down hundreds of feet and offers countless amazing views and photo ops of something that you just can’t find in a place like Louisiana.

I wish we had more time in Rocky Mountain, but I think we made the best of the opportunity. We plan to go back, with Eileen, at some point in the next few years, hopefully taking an RV trip all over Colorado.

We drove into Denver and checked into a Holiday Inn Express near Coors Field. We met up with a friend from St. Louis and watched the Rockies lose a 9th inning lead to the Brewers. This is the fourth baseball stadium that I have visited this summer, and while it certainly does not compare to Wrigley, I enjoyed it more than Milwaukee and about the same as Atlanta. Overall, I have nothing legitimately bad to say about our baseball experience (except that the Brewers won), and always recommend supplementing a hiking trip like this with something a little cosmopolitan.

The last day of our visit, Sunday, was Father’s Day, and we grabbed a quick breakfast at Citizen Rail at Union Station. The restaurant has a bit of limited menu, but the food was good, and I would certainly eat there again.

The last thing we did prior to leaving was visit Red Rocks. This was almost an afterthought, as we were just trying to kill time before our flight, and thank the Good Dude that we did. If you thought Red Rocks was just a great concert venue, well, you’d be correct, but you’d be missing out on some of the most amazing hiking and scenery within a short drive of Denver. We took the Trading Post trail, about a two mile, pretty rigorous loop, and what a fantastic experience.

The topography of this area is different than anything I have ever seen, including the Rockies. If you have the chance, this is a can’t-miss part of one of the most amazing states in this country.

We had such a great time in less than three full days that we are already planning a trip back. Most people visit Colorado over the winter to ski, and while that makes a lot of sense, there is so much to do year round that you cannot limit yourself to just one season. If you have any questions or want suggestions, please reach out, otherwise, we’ll see you the next time we go a-traveling.

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Memories in St. Louis

This Memorial Day, my family and I took a quick trip to Missouri to spend the holiday weekend with my parents, brothers and their families. We all grew up in St. Louis, and it is always nice to all go back together, as none of us currently live in the area.

We flew up early on Saturday morning and met my family at the National Museum of Transportation. This is a site that I visited many times as a child, and offers a lot for kids of certain ages. It has a great old car museum, multiple old train cars that you can tour, and a train ride around the entire park. It is definitely geared more towards kids younger (or older) than ours, ideally the 4 through 7 ages, but we enjoyed it.

We went to the Corner Pub and Grill for lunch, which has a vast menu for just about anyone, but is nothing spectacular, then went to relax at my parent’s house. After we unpacked, we went with my brothers to the O’Fallon Brewery. My middle brother, in particular, is a big fan of breweries, and this was a nice way to spend the evening.

The following day, we really kicked off our trip. This was Sunday, and the family decided to head about an hour south to Hawn State Park. This is another location that we visited a lot as kids, and it offers several really interesting hikes.

As my family, in particular, is big into getting our National Park passport books stamped, we left a bit early and took a little detour. In 2018, the Ste. Genevieve Historic Park became a part of the National Park services. Ste. Genevieve is the site of the first permanent European settlement in Missouri and is one of the newest sites designated by the Parks services.

It is so new in fact, that they are still building out the area. The Visitors’ Center offers some very cool scale models and a very informative video. In addition, there are several buildings that are part of site that date back to the late 1700s. The kids got their books stamped and did the Junior Ranger packets, and we pressed on. This is currently not a site that you would want to spend more than an hour or two at, but if you are in the area, it is pretty interesting.

When we arrived at Hawn State Park, we met my family at the Pickle Creek Trail and headed out. This trail follows a very scenic river about a mile deep into the park. While the entire trail is pretty impressive, the end offers several natural water-slides upon which the kids can play. The water was a little cold, but it is a lot of fun for the kids to have something to look forward to at the end.

The park has multiple trails that seem pretty worthwhile, but as we had the baby with us, we decided one good hike was enough for us. The baby fell asleep in the car on the way home, so after we ate and changed, we headed back into town and spent the afternoon at the City Museum.

If you have kids between the ages of 6 and 16, I would call this perhaps the number one ‘must-do’ in St. Louis. While it says museum in the name, there is very little educational about this attraction. The City Museum consists largely of repurposed architectural and industrial objects through which the kids crawl, climb and tunnel. It is hard to do this museum justice in print, but it is the first place that Jonathan and Eileen ask to go every time we are in St. Louis.

We went to the City Museum without the rest of our family, as my brother’s kids are just a bit too young for the experience, but we all met back at the house for Imo’s Pizza. If you watch Jimmy Kimmel, you may have heard one of his rant against Imo’s, but if you are from St. Louis, like Jon Hamm, you understand that this pizza isn’t just from St. Louis, it is St. Louis. There is nothing in the world that takes me back to my formative years than eating one of these thin, provel-covered delights.

The next day, we hit the Zoo, and while I have been there many times, it never fails to impress. The St. Louis Zoo is regularly ranked as one of the top five in the country, but perhaps the most attractive feature is that the zoo is free. Our zoo in New Orleans, which is fine but nothing special, costs almost $20/person. Getting to see fantastic zoo with great animals and enclosures, for free, is a reason to go to St. Louis in and of itself. My kids, who only go to St. Louis once or twice a year, have probably been a dozen times, and it never gets old.

We left the Zoo and headed to The Hill for lunch. The Hill is an old neighborhood in St. Louis that was settled by Italian immigrants. While it has produced some notable people, like Hall of Famer Yogi Berra, the best product of The Hill is the food. There are bakeries, delis or restaurants on every corner, and this time around, we picked Joe Fassi’s. Joe offers about 20 different sandwiches, and while they all sound good, I cannot never pass on the salami. If you are visiting St. Louis and looking for a really unique, high quality restaurant, I recommend just about anywhere on The Hill.

Before we headed for the airport, we made a quick stop at Ted Drewes. I feel like, aside from the Cardinals who were on the road at the time, we really hit all the St. Louis classics. Ted Drewes is an old drive-in/diner-style frozen custard shop. Their specialty is called a concrete, which is reminiscent of a blizzard, from DQ, but so much better. It is hard to choose, but I think I have to recommend the Oreo concrete; it may well be the best desert I have ever enjoyed.

Since my parents live their, we visit St. Louis a lot, but we try to do something different every time. I think we hit the nail on the head this Memorial Day, and the kids really seemed to enjoy. If you are going sometime soon, please reach out as I would be happy to give you suggestions for families of all shapes and sizes.

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Mother’s Day on the Bayou

Since we got our passport books in Hot Springs, AR in 2018, we have been doing our best to collect as many stamps as possible, and visit every National Park site we can. This year, for Mother’s Day, the Traveling Igoes decided to knock off some of the low-hanging fruit.

There are two site within a few minutes of where we live in Louisiana, the New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve. The Jazz Heritage Site has been closed since COVID began, but Jean Lafitte has recently become very accessible, and has a whole lot to offer.

We woke up early and headed down to French Quarter for brunch, where we at the Red Fish Grill. The restaurant is actually on Bourbon Street, just inside the Quarter, and is a great option for families. The food is extraordinary, but the atmosphere is very casual, and they offer a very diverse kid’s menu.

Afterwards, we wandered the Quarter for a bit, including Jackson Square and the riverfront, we made our way back to the car, changed into our hiking gear and headed south towards the tip of Louisiana.

The Jean Lafitte site is about 30 minutes outside of New Orleans, and for those visiting the city with kids, it is a good option. New Orleans offers far more adult attractions than it does for the younger members of the family, so having a National Park Site within half an hour at which you can spend an entire day is a nice option.

The park actually has six sites scattered across South Louisiana. Each location is unique in its focus, and they all reflect a place where traditions can be generations old, but the ground under your feet can change with the weather. The focus of this adventure was the Barataria Preserve.

The 26,000 acres include swamps, bayous, marshes and forests, and is crisscrossed by boardwalks that are frequented by humans, snakes and gators alike. When we arrived, we hit up the Visitors’ Center, got some info from the ranger, a few Junior Ranger Packets and headed out along the Visitor Center Trail.

This is only a 0.25 mile boardwalk near the Visitors’ Center that we were actually planning to skip, but the ranger told us that a mating pair of alligators were basking near the end. As usual, the ranger was telling the truth, and less than five feet from the boardwalk were two good looking gators. We saw several alligators in the wild at the Everglades, but it never gets old, and getting up close and personal is a bit exhilarating.

From there, we got back in the car and drove to the Bayou Coquille trailhead. There is a boardwalk connecting the Visitors’ Center to the Bayou trail, but, according to the ranger, it is not at all shaded, so we skipped the Palmetto Trail. Perhaps if we return at a cooler time of year, we will give it a go, but from April to September in Louisiana, it can be very unpleasant to walk 0.9 miles in zero shade, 90% humidity.

The Bayou Coquille Trail is an eerie trek through a Louisiana bayou that might have been pulled from a storybook. Within five minutes, we saw a small gator swimming up the bayou, leading to a baby gator sunning itself on an island. This trail is about half a mile, and in that half mile, we also ran across three harmless, but nonetheless creepy, snakes.

This trail dead ends at another trail, the Marsh Overlook, where we found a clearing overlooking a lily-filled marsh. On this portion of the walk, we came across two more alligators, culminating in a large gator resting in the marsh itself.

Most of these hikes are along boardwalks and are well tended, and the walk itself is relatively easy, to the point that we were able to do it with a stroller. There is no denying that we were sweaty by the end, but it was a great two-mile trek.

It is also worth noting that the Junior Ranger packet was relatively easy. Those of you that have gotten multiple badges know that some are very straight forward while others can actually be a pain in the ass. This packet was appropriate to the level of the park, and was easily completed in one day.

If you are visiting New Orleans, either with or without kids, and you want an excursion that will take you out of the city for a few hours, Jean Lafitte is a great option. If you want a longer excursion, there are several companies that offer airboat tours of the area as well.

Prior to going, I was optimistic that perhaps one day, this site might get re-designated as a Louisiana’s first National Park. Having visited, it seems unlikely to me, as the potential activities are a bit limited. That said, if you are in the area, I highly recommend you take the time to experience this beautiful cross-section of our underrated state.

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Baseball’s Back in the Midwest

I have said many times that the planning of a trip creates almost as much joy as does the vacation itself, and I stand by that statement. In the case of the Igoe’s recent vacation to Chicago, the planning was a multi-year process.

In early 2020, we decided to take a vacation over the Easter holiday to Chicago. As I am sure everyone is aware, only a few weeks after we planned everything out, the world went crazy and everything was shut down due to COVID.

This year, as Easter approached, we very closely watched the news, and the numbers, and all the information from the various departments of health, and when the time came, we were able to pull the trigger and take the vacation that we had been planning since 2019.

On Good Thursday, we landed at Midway Airport and drove straight to Lou Malnati’s. This is a deep dish restaurant chain that makes a great, almost stereotypical Chicago-style pizza. For those of you who have never had deep dish pizza in Chicago, it is very different than what is considered deep dish elsewhere. For one, the crust is actually not very think, but is much more like what you would see in an actual pie. The next layer on our pizza was cheese, followed by a pizza-sized patty of sausage. To clarify, I do not mean multiple chunks of sausage, but one large disc. On top of this was poured the sauce, so to most us, this is basically an upside down pizza. While I will not say that Lou’s is the best pizza I have ever had, it was a great way to wade into the deep dish pizza waters.

From there, we headed down town to stay a Hampton Inn in the Majestic building. The year prior, we had reservations at the Palmer House, but due to capacity limitations, could not get a room. While there was nothing all that special about the Hampton Inn, it was inside the loop, walking distance to plenty of attractions and more than adequate in terms of accommodations.

The next morning, we all awoke when the baby started making noise, loaded up the rental car and headed for Indiana. On the way, we stopped at Firecakes Donuts. Evidently, Chicago has become a mecca for artisan style donuts, and Firecakes was the first of the three we tried. At all three, I got a classic old fashioned, and while Firecakes was not the best of the three, it was nonetheless fantastic. More on the donuts to come…

About an hour east of Chicago is Indiana Dunes National Park. Indiana Dunes is one of the country’s newest National Parks, previously designated a National Lakeshore, to the point that they have not yet installed a permanent National Park sign. When we arrived, the kids got their passport books stamped, and we picked up three junior ranger packets. We headed into the park, straight for the Three Dune Challenge. This is a relatively strenuous hike that goes up and down three separate sand dunes. It is not easy to explain how difficult a dune can be to ascend if you have never hiked one before, but walking up hill in the sand is quite cumbersome (especially with an 18 pound butterball strapped to your stomach). The payoff was worth it though, as the views of Lake Michigan from atop each peak are nothing short of spectacular.

Indiana Dunes is far more popular in the summer time, when you can camp out on the beach and play in the water, but there is plenty to do and see, no matter what time of year you visit. It is definitely a park that you could spend three or four days exploring, but it is also one that can be adequately experienced if you only have a few free hours. Even though this was our first excursion of the trip, I think it was my favorite experience overall. If you get the chance, I strongly recommend visiting this really unique park to take in a landscape that can be found in very few other places across the country.

On our way back to Chicago, since we had our passport books, we decided to stop at the Pullman National Monument. This site memorializes a really interesting moment in Chicago history when George Pullman created a planned community in which his factory workers could live. He was attempting to keep the families of his employees from having to live in slums, but at the same time, forced them to rent from him. It was quite controversial and eventually led to significant strife.

This site was only designated a part of the NPS in 2015 and is still in development. It is really interesting, but there is not a whole lot to do as of yet. If we ever get back to Chicago, I hope to visit the monument again.

From there, we got drove to the hotel, parked the Hyundai and walked up to the Chicago River, where we got on-board a Wendella tour. There several companies that offer architectural river tours, and the one recommended to us by several friends was Wendella. At certain times of the year, they actually go into Lake Michigan as well, but for this time of year, that was not available.

Following the Great Fire of 1871, Chicago developed a very interesting and unique architectural style. Multiple skyscrapers, luxury apartments and stone buildings have gone up along the river, and this 90 minute cruise gives tourists a chance to take it all in and learn a lot about the history of the city. I should warn you that the cruise does get a bit chilly, so dress appropriately and do not hesitate to take advantage of the bar and warm yourself up with a cocktail. I believe this was Alyson’s favorite part of our trip and in terms of bang for your buck, this is a can’t miss tourist attraction.

That night, we ate at Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse. As it was a Friday in Lent, I was a little disappointed not to get to try the steak (as was the waiter), but the pasta dishes we all got were amazing. This is one of the most impressive restaurants that I have ever been in. It is basically a high-end version of a sports bar, with pictures and quotes and memorabilia everywhere. And it is not just a bunch of Cubs non-sense; the entire baseball community is represented in one form or another. We were actually lucky enough to meet one of Ernie Banks’ sons during our meal. I was quite skeptical at first, but he very quickly proved that he was, in fact, the child of Mr. Cub.

The next morning, Clara woke us up early again, and we headed for the Donut Vault. Another of Chicago’s boutique bakeries, the Vault offers the classics as well as several unique options. I got the old fashioned again, and again it was great, but it was not the best one I had over the weekend. My son got a pair of enormous donut holes that he claims were the best thing he ate all trip.

That morning we went to Field Museum, one of the city’s most diverse attractions. I visited once as a child and remember it being primarily dinosaur bones. Whether or not that is just a child’s memory or things have changed, this museum has evolved into one of the greatest natural history attractions in the country, rivaling the Smithsonian.

In addition to really impressive dinosaur skeletons, like the T. Rex Sue, the museum has amazing exhibits on the history of the planet, on the history of human beings, an impressive collection of gem stones, and then about six more hours worth of things to see for which we did not have time. They even have several virtual reality simulators that helped to keep the kids engaged throughout. I think this was Eileen’s favorite part of our Chicago adventure.

It was recommended to us that we eat at the Billy Goat Tavern. Those of you that are older might recall a classic SNL sketch based on this restaurant. It is a classic, tucked underneath the city streets that can be hard to find if you come from the wrong direction. There are a few options, but 95% of the food served are thin, grilled burgers. The food is good, but the atmosphere is what makes it worthwhile. If you have never been there before, it is important to keep in mind that even though the menu only has singles and doubles, you can order as many patties as you like. I got a triple, which ended up being the appropriate meat-to-bun ratio, but in my hungrier youth, I could easily have put down a quadruple or quintuple.

The next stop on our tour was the 360 Chicago Observation Deck in the John Hancock building. I have heard that the views from the Willis (Sears) Tower are actually better, but it was closed due to COVID, so beggars can’t be choosers. I am forced to confess that this was my least favorite part of our trip. We purchased 2 pm tickets and arrived at 1:40. When we got there, we were told it would be about an hour and fifteen minute wait. When I asked an associate what was the point of having 2 o’clock tickets if it didn’t mean we got to go at 2 o’clock, she told me that they do not guarantee anything, but that our tickets were good for a year.

As unhelpful as that was, we decided to stick it out, and made it to the 94th floor at around 2:45. Once I got over my impatience, I did enjoy the views and would recommend it, just be aware that the numbers on your tickets are basically meaningless. You step off the elevator into a room with panoramic overlooks of the city. For a little extra, you can try the tilt, where you stand against the glass and are slowly tilted out beyond the edge of the building. It is actually scarier to watch than it is to do, and it definitely makes the wait a bit more worthwhile. There is also a bar that serves drinks and gelato, so at least that is something.

As a result of the unexpected wait, we had to hurry through a bit, got back to the car and headed north to Milwaukee. I am aware that I have billed this as a Chicago trip, and that to this point, as much time will have been spent outside of Chicago as in, but due to the circumstances, we had to broaden our horizons.

It just so happens that we have all grown up as big baseball fans; the kids and I of the Cardinals, and Alyson of the Astros. While neither of those teams happened to be in Chicago or Milwaukee, both of those teams were playing at home, so on Saturday night, we drove to American Family Field (formerly Miller Park), and watched the Brewers lose to the Twins.

American Family is a nice, clean park, but it is not super unique. I suppose it was heavily limited by COVID, but it felt like we could have been watching a ball game anywhere. Even so, we all had a great time. Capacity was maxed at 25%, so we had plenty of room to spread out and there was not a bad seat in the house. The game itself was actually quite entertaining as well, for the more committed baseball fan. Both teams threw perfect games into the 5th, and the Twins pitching staff completed a really impressive one-hitter for a 2-0 victory. If you are the type of person who wants to see the greatest sporting venues this country has to offer, Milwaukee probably shouldn’t be on your list, but if you want to enjoy baseball in a nice, comfortable stadium, American Family Field will do the trick.

The next day was Easter, and since our church reservations were not until 10, and Clara woke us up at 7, we decided to go out for breakfast. Instead of donuts, we went to a restaurant called Yolk on the Chicago River. This is just simple, straightforward breakfast food with some interesting twists. My daughter got Oreo pancakes while my son got s’mores-based pancakes. Eileen loved hers but when my son started scraping off all the graham cracker and marshmallow fluff, we came to the decision that he is no longer allowed to order specialty pancakes. No matter how good they sound, all he ever wants is plain.

For Easter, we went to church at Holy Names Cathedral. A beautiful building, the service was performed by Cardinal Cupich, so it was a unique experience. When we do attend church in larger cities whilst on vacation, we always try to go the cathedral, if the city has one. These buildings are usually a sight worth seeing in and of themselves, and it helps to deepen the experience one gets in a different town.

Afterwards, we jumped on the L-train (which evidently is the same thing as the subway), and headed for Wrigley Field. The Cubs opened the 2021 season again division rivals, the Pittsburgh Pirates, and we were lucky enough to get four of the 10,000+ tickets available, due to capacity limitations.

If you are a baseball fan, and have never been to Wrigley, this is a must visit. Contrasting it to American Family the night before, it is easy to understand how the Cubs ballpark has become one of the most iconic sports venues in the country. Wrigley is tucked into a residential neighborhood and could easily be missed if it weren’t for the throngs of fans. Every seat, including those on the roof tops across the street, is amazing, and the atmosphere is electric, even at 25%.

Having grown up a Cardinals’ fan, I refuse to say it is the best baseball stadium I have ever visited, but it is certainly up there. I will also note the while the fan base is committed, the fans in the bleachers perhaps take it too far at times, in several not particularly family friendly ways. On Easter Sunday, the Cubs beat Pirates 4-2, and while I was certainly pulling for visitors, I have to admit that I had an amazing time.

After the game, we took the L-train back to the loop, and once again, walked to the Chicago River. We decided that we could not visit Chicago without experiencing one of the almost countless Chicago steakhouses. For the meat eaters out there, this is something that everyone should do at least once. That said, be prepared to pay. We ate at Chicago Cut, and it was fantastic, but the price for four of us was well over $200, and that included two steaks, two sides and a few drinks.

The reason these meals get so expensive is that the entrees usually start at around $60. Since both Jonathan and Eileen enjoy steak, we ordered two, along with two sides, and shared everything. I am glad we did it, and if we go back to Chicago, I could see doing it again, but this type of meal is obviously geared toward tourists and business folk, not the every day Chicago resident.

The next day, Monday, was our last day in Illinois, and we had few concrete plans, other than to get a donut. On Monday morning, we hit up Stan’s, and I got my third and final old fashioned. I am glad that we stuck with it, because this was my favorite donut of the weekend. Funny enough, it was my wife’s least favorite. Of the three donut places we hit, she enjoyed Firecake’s the most, and JR and Eileen preferred the Donut Vault. It just goes to show that there are different strokes for different folks, and that the Chicago donut scene, evidently, is blowing up.

We spent the rest of the day driving around different parts of Chicago. We went to the Lincoln Park area to see the Sacred Heart school and Loyola Marymount. This is a really scenic location, and a place that I could see my daughter going for college. We also ate at Pequod’s Pizza, a great neighborhood restaurant and bar. While Lou Malnati’s is certainly more well-known, the whole family agreed that the pizza at Pequod’s was far superior.

We flew home on Southwest that afternoon, and all crashed hard. It is extraordinarily satisfying to get to a experience a new city, mostly on foot. We love trying new restaurants, seeing new parks, and who could pass on finally getting to go back to a baseball game in person. One of the great things about this trip is that while we all enjoyed every activity, we all had different favorites. I enjoyed the Indiana Dunes the most, Alyson loved the river tour, JR’s favorite part was both baseball games, and Eileen loved the Field Museum. Oh, and Clara liked laughing at inappropriate moments during the Cardinal’s homily on Easter.

Chicago is a great and unique American city, and it has plenty of family friendly activities for all ages. It is also a city that offers so much, that it cannot all be done in one trip. If you have any questions, please reach out; our family would love to help yours enjoy Chicago as much as we did.