Author: T.Igoe

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The Black Hills and Custer State Park (RV Days 1, 2 and 3)

It’s been over two years since the family’s last RV trip, and we were do. The first Friday after all three of the kids (and Alyson) were off school, we zipped up to Rapid City, SD, picked up an RV through Outdoorsy and made for the hills. This trip was an eight day adventure, but for the purposes of the blog, I am going to break into a few distinct parts.

What We Did

Wind Cave NP: Wind Cave is a National Park on the southern end of the Black Hills in South Dakota. It is unique in that it features extensive box work patterns. I visited once as a teenager and was impressed. Unfortunately, this summer, the elevator is being replaced, so the cave itself was not accessible. The above ground acreage is extensive, and there is some cool stuff, including the Rankin Ridge Trail (which should be walked clockwise), but without the cave, there’s not actually that much reason to go. We knew ahead of time, but also knew we were going to South Dakota, and the chances of going back anytime soon seemed slim, so we went to get our books stamped. It would have been a lot better with a cave tour.

Jewel Cave NM: Jewel Cave, whilst only a National Monument, is consider by some the better of the two caves. It is much more alive with all sorts of different features. Tickets are required and can be obtained through recreation.gov. Be careful you buy the correct tickets. I mistakenly booked the Discovery Tour, which is only 20 minutes, only one room, and probably only for seniors. You want the Scenic Tour, which I also took in my teens, which is great. What we saw was still really cool but not as great as it could have been.

Cosmos Mystery Area: This experience is a bit of kitsch, a bit Gravity Falls, and is a fun way to spend about an hour. Some blogs we read prior stated this was the best thing they did in the Black Hills, which for us, it was not, but it was a unique way to spend an afternoon. The Mystery Area is a unique place, gravitationally speaking, in the Black Hills. Depending on where a person stands, he or she appears to grow or shrink. In one room, you have little choice by to stand at a 45 degree angle. In another, a ball rolls down one railing and right back up a parallel one. It is probably a hoax, but the kids enjoyed it, and it was less than $70 for all of us.

Buffalo Safari Jeep Tour: This tour takes you along the southern loop of Custer State Park with the goal of seeing the local wildlife. The jeeps are open air, and a bit bumpy at times, and can seat at least 9 comfortably. In terms of the geography of the park, Custer is similar to Yellowstone, if on a smaller scale, in that the southern half is very different from the northern. The lower portion is a bit flatter and much more grassy. Almost immediately, we found hundreds of hilarious ground hogs, a few dozen antelope (yes, antelope) and one coyote. Oh, and several hundred bison less than a few feet away. If the name of the tour bothers you, it has evidently become acceptable in areas where they actually exist to refer to bison as buffalo.

Crazy Horse Memorial: This is a really interesting site. You can buy advanced tickets to enter the grounds, then a $5 ride to the base of the monument or a $120 ride that will get you up to the chieftain’s face. We wanted to do the latter, but the timing wasn’t right, so we visited the base. I saw this monument about 25 years ago and progress, while moving forward, has been very slow. That said, if and when it’s finished, it will be amazing. If you’re able, I recommend the face tour, as we heard great things from some Texans we met at a bar. Keep in mind these tours go every hour on the hour. The base tours go far more frequently.

Mount Rushmore: If you’re going to the Black Hills, you can’t in good conscience miss this mountain. I’ve heard other say they found it underwhelming. I have now been twice and both times found it inspiring. There is a nice hike around the grounds that gets you different viewpoints, and a lot of history in the Visitors Center. This feels like a bucket list items for any American. It doesn’t take more than an hour or two, and it is worth every minute.

Cathedral Spires: This trail is in the heart of the Black Hills, and is a 1.6 mile out-and-back. Parking is limited, but since the trail is not that long, turnover is high. This was probably our favorite hike in the hills, with really stunning scenery throughout and a satisfying payoff at the end. It does include some scrambling, but nothing our 3 year old couldn’t handle.

The Needles/Iron Mountain Roads: One of the iconic things to do in Custer State Park is to drive the Needles and the Iron Mountain roads. The highways themselves are only a few miles, but they are windy and scenic, and crisscross the park, so the drive requires time and patience. The Needles offers several one-way tunnels that are exhilarating, and the Iron Mountains offers the same. I recommend going North to South on the Needles and the opposite for the Iron Mountains. A few of the latter tunnels open up to picturesque views of Mount Rushmore. We had to rent a car from our KOA for this. If you were thinking about trying in an RV, don’t; you’ll get stuck and ruin everyone’s week.

Rushmore Tramway Adventure: This was just a nice break from all the driving, hiking and photo-capturing for the kids. Alyson and the older two did a 5-line zip which they loved, while Clara and I rode the alpine sled and tube slide. There are a few other outfitters in Keystone that offer similar excursions; we find it to be a nice way to break up any potential monotony for the younglings.

Rock Climbing: Sylvan Rock Climbing took Jonathan and Eileen into the park to scale several of the spires. It took about 4 hours and was totally worth it. The guides were great, everything was perfectly safe and the scenery was special, even for those of us who weren’t actually climbing.

Where We Stayed

Fall River Ranch RV Resort: The first night, we stayed at an RV park in close proximity to Wind Cave. It was nothing special, but they had full hooks, a very nice restroom/shower complex and a wonderful owner. I would recommend it to anyone.

Mount Rushmore KOA: This place was bananas, B-A-N-A-N-A-S. It’s now a Holiday run KOA, but is really more of a resort. It’s right in the heart of Custer State Park and has everything. There’s a restaurant, a bar, ice cream, rental vehicles available, a pancake breakfast and much, much more. If you are looking for solitude, this is not the place for you, but if you want a pool with a water slide, check it out.

This all took us about 60 hours, and then we moved northwest into the Spearfish area. It was a great start, and we were able to fill out days. The best decision we made was to rent a car for a day so that we could make our way through the entirety of the park.

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Guaranteed (Fun) Rate Field

As the school year came to a close in 2024, my wife and eldest daughter went on a service trip to Nicaragua, starting on Memorial Day weekend and lasting for 8 days. To keep the wander lust as bay, Clara, JR and I decided to take a short jaunt to Chicago and catch a White Sox home game.

If you are asking why in the world did we choose the White Sox, the answer is pretty straightforward. For one, it is a direct flight from NOLA to Chicago, which made traveling with a three year old a lot easier. Two, we had never been, and I would like to see a ball game in home stadium of every team. Counting the ChiSox, I am up to fourteen.

We were in Chicago for less than 24 hours total, but we had a great time. There’s so much to do there, that we could go back again and have a completely different experience.

What We Did

Stax Cafe: We arrived quite early, and the game didn’t start until 1:10 pm, so our first stop was at Stax for pancakes. There are at least two of these in Chicago, and I was very impressed. They have a very diverse menu for breakfast and for lunch, and have several options for kids. All three of us got pancakes, and while JR, who is a bit of a pancake snob, said they weren’t the best he’s ever had, they were definitely above average. We were all very satisfied.

Maggie Daley Park: This is a great public play area right off the water in downtown Chicago. It has a lot to offer, and while we didn’t have a ton of time, we managed to get in 18 holes of mini golf and about 45 minutes on the playgrounds. There’s a lot more to do in this area, and it has great options for kids. We probably could have spent the whole day there. The only drawback is that parking is kind of confusing and kind of expensive.

White Sox Game: If you were too suggest that the White Sox stadium has the worst name in baseball, I wouldn’t disagree. That said, the stadium itself is quite impressive. While it isn’t in the best part of the city, the area immediately surrounding the stadium is great. There is ample parking, and since the team is pretty mediocre at the moment, we were able to park less than five minutes away.

There is a large Kids’ Zone in the outfield, but we actually didn’t take advantage of it. JR said the pretzel was a 6 out of 10, which is much higher than Philadelphia, and Clara easily took care of a hot dog. My only complaint about the food is that they didn’t have any candy (as far as we could tell), which helps to get a three year old through 3 hours of ball.

My favorite things about the White Sox experience are the batters eye and City Connect jerseys. Centerfield is lovely copse of green trees and bushes that creates a much more esthetic batters’ eye than does a simple green wall. While they weren’t wearing their City Connect jersey’s that day, I think the White Sox’ is one of the best. I see little reason to ever go back the Guaranteed Rate, but I would definitely recommend it.

Lou Malnati’s: We closed the night with deep dish pizza and spaghetti at Lou Malnati’s. I am not expert in Chicago-style pizza; frankly, it’s not my favorite. That said, the food was good, the beer was cold and the people were friendly, so what could there be to complain about?

We had a great, brief experience in Chicago, and while the Sox field certainly doesn’t compare to Wrigley, it certainly isn’t at the bottom of the list of stadiums that we’ve visited. It probably doesn’t make the list of must-do things in Chicago, but for the MLB fans hoping to visit every stadium, Guaranteed Rate is more than just a box to check, it was a very pleasant experience. We spent the night at a Holiday Inn Express (which was not very nice) near the airport and caught the early flight home.

Next up, we’ve got an RV trip through the Dakotas, so stay tuned to see if I hit another Dairy Queen.

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Baltimore or Bust

This year, as Eileen went off to Spring Break in Pensacola, JR, Alyson, Clara and I made our way from New Orleans directly to Baltimore for Easter. This is the fourth year in a row that we’ve used this weekend to visit a new city and go to a ball game (or two).

We landed in Baltimore in the early evening on Friday night and spent some time tooling around the Inner Harbor area. This is one of the more popular, touristy areas of the city. You’ll definitely pay tourist prices, but there’s a lot to do. We were too early in the season for the majority of the water activities, but it’s still a pretty interesting area.

Where We Ate

Angie’s Seafood: This was a great spot that had reservations available for us on a Friday night in Lent. The entire menu looked great, and while it was pricey, the food was worth it. We were definitely on the prowl for crab cakes, and these were some of the best I have ever had. It’s worth it to keep in mind that the crab cakes in Baltimore differ from those, in say, New Orleans. Back home, it’s basically a fried patty. On the east coast, it was almost like a huge ice cream scoop of crab with very little filler, warmed and browned on a grill top. The meal was quite satisfying.

Underground Pizza CO.: This pizza places specializes in Detroit-style pizza, which basically means sauce on the top and no crust. This, too, was in the Inner Harbor area, so was pricey and touristy, but the food was really good and the people were really friendly.

Miss Shirleys: This is one of the classic breakfasts spots, of which there are several throughout the Baltimore area. We were able to walk from our hotel, and all four of us easily found something we were able to enjoy.

Peabody Heights Brewery: Full disclosure, we didn’t actually eat at this brewery. There was a food truck, but we didn’t actually try anything. The beer was solid, and there were a dozen or so options. Two unique things about this brewery is that first, it’s located at the site of the old Orioles baseball stadium, there’s some cool historical stuff to look at. The second is that the brewery includes an all-you-can-play video arcade for $15. Our kids were allowed to participate, and we spent a solid two hours here.

What We Did

Babe Ruth Birthplace and Museum: If you are a baseball lover or a history lover, this is a cool place to visit. While Babe Ruth only lived at this Baltimore site for about a week, they have done a really good job of preserving it. There are some really cool old baseball cards, not just of the Babe, several exhibits about the Babe and the Orioles, and a short, but poignant video about the relationship between big league ball and the national anthem. It’s priced reasonably, and only takes about an hour, and is definitely worthwhile.

Fort McHenry: Speaking of the national anthem, this is National Historic Site was the location of the battle where it was originally penned. At the time we were there, the Fort actually overlooked the collapsed bridge, but in addition to that, it is a well-preserved part of American history. The grounds are beautiful, especially when the trees are flowering, and there’s a great video about Francis Scott Key, the War of 1812 and the development of the Star-Spangled Banner.

Phillies Game: If you’ve come to Baltimore for the love of the game, as did we, it might be worth your time to drive two hours northeast and catch a Phillies game. We did on the Saturday, and watched the Phillies drop one to the Braves. Although I am a fan of neither team, it is always fun to watch the Phillies lose; their fans take it so well.

I believe this was the 12th MLB team at whose stadium I saw a home game, and frankly, I was not impressed. I love visiting Philadelphia, but everything you hear about the Philly-faithful is true. They boo almost all the time, including their owns players. The stadium is relatively lackluster. Worst of all, the fans don’t seem to understand normal, live sports etiquette. They stand up to go to the vendors or bathroom mid-pitch and seem to completely disregard the fact that others a trying to watch the game. In terms of getting to a home game of every club, I am glad that we went, but I don’t have plans to ever go back.

Orioles Game: Camden Yards is a completely different story. This first of the classic, retro stadiums is built right into the heart of the city and does not disappoint. While I am aware that the team itself frequently disappoints, we had a great experience. For me, an Orioles game is the top attraction in Baltimore. Of the stadiums that I have been in, I think I would have to rank it third, behind only Busch and Wrigley.

We had a great trip and great time visiting Baltimore. It is a very diverse city, and it has a lot to offer. I would gladly go back given the opportunity. Next on our list might be another short baseball trip with just JR, Clara and I, or it will be a big one: South Dakota, North Dakota and an RV. Stay tuned…

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Sugar, We’re Going Down (to Jacksonville)

The morning after the Bananas’ game, JR and I woke early and jetted off to Florida to see his favorite band, Fall Out Boy, perform in Jacksonville. Again, this post will be somewhat of a diversion from our normal travel posts, but if you’re spending some time in Jacksonville, or with Patrick Stump or Pete Wentz, this installment is for you.

What We Did:

Fort Caroline: This is a National Park Service site within the city of Jacksonville. To be honest, it is a bit of a disappointment. The ‘fort’ has existed since the 1500s, and it is admitted by the people who run the site that no one really knows what exactly it was or what exactly happened there. It would be a cool place to take your dog for a walk if you lived nearby, but there is not actually a lot to see or do. We got a passport stamp, and that was about it.

Safe Harbor Seafood Market and Restaurant: This restaurant, right one the water, was awesome. You walk in, order at the counter, and they bring your food within a few minutes. JR and I sat outside, had a great food and enjoyed a perfect atmosphere.

St. Augustine, FL: The oldest town in the United States is less than an hour south of Jacksonville. In retrospect, I wish we’d gone right away, but since the concert didn’t start until 6:30 pm, and FOB wasn’t likely to go on until 9, we had plenty of time. There is a much better National Park site here (Castillo de San Marcos), and while the whole town is a bit touristy, it’s a lot of fun. We found a bar with a balcony overlooking the water, a place called Ben’s that sells pretzels, and all sorts of other things to do. It actually reminded me a lot of the French Quarter, sans the strip clubs and t-shirt shop.s

Fall Out Boy

What an amazing show!!! I couldn’t have asked for more for JR’s first concert. We arrived at about 7:30, but still saw two openers, including Jimmy Eat World, who were pretty good. Fall Out Boy went on at around 9 and played for almost two hours.

The show was amazing. A lot of their music is very interactive, and the audience was great. The band played every song we wanted to hear, plus a few more that we didn’t expect. By the end, the boy was exhausted, and I was happy. I sent the band an FB message thanking them for making his first concert so memorable, and Patrick Stump (the lead singer) actually responded.

We both look forward to the next new album from Fall Out Boy (named for a Simpsons’ character, if you didn’t know) so that the go on another tour.

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A Savannah Banana in Louisiana

This might be a slight diversion from our normal posts, but last Friday night, I took JR to the Savannah Bananas game in Baton Rouge. If you have plans to go (anywhere), here are a few things to keep in mind.

First of all, if you are going for the baseball, don’t go. If you are a baseball purist, you will hate this experience. It is much more akin to a Harlem Globetrotters game than a Yankees game, so just keep that in mind.

Personally, I thought I was going to hate it, and whilst I did not love it, it was better than I expected. The players are all very talented, and it is quite a spectacle. I am not sure if this holds true at every venue, but in Baton Rouge, there was no assigned seating, so it was a made rush to find a place to sit amongst friends, but beyond that, the atmosphere was fun.

When we arrived, there were multiple shops at which merchandise could be purchased, and several players available to sign autographs. You might ask what interest there actually is in the autograph of a Banana, but kids at least up to the age of 12 love it. I bought JR a ball, and he got about half a dozen signatures. Even though the value of those signatures is little, monetarily, it was a great experience for JR, and all of the players were super-friendly.

In terms of the game itself, there are a few rules which are important to note. Most important is that the game stops at 2 hours, which was a huge relief. Additionally, points are only awarded at the end of the full inning to the team who scored the most runs. So if the Bananas, who are always the home team, give up 2 runs in the top of the first and score 5 in the bottom, they are up 1-0.

That leads to my next point of emphasis, they always play the same team, the Party Animals. These guys are basically just as good at baseball as the Bananas, and also try to put on a show.

What I Didn’t Like:

There isn’t a ton of commitment to the quality of the game play. It is clearly not meant to be high end baseball, and that was a detractor for me.

The umpires. They spent a lot of time dancing, more than one would expect in under almost any other circumstance. I felt like it took away from my enjoyment.

The walk rule. After a four ball at bat, the runner sprints to as many bases he can reach until everyone on the other team touches the ball. It sounds interesting, but it just ends up with runners sprinting to first and outfielders sprinting to second.

What I Liked:

As before mentioned, the 2 hour time limit, and the player/audience engagement. At one point, the left fielder player catch prior to the inning with my son and two of his friends, that was pretty cool.

The mid-inning entertainment. Between half innings, there was often a show of sorts. The best one was when two dad, each with two kids were selected from the crowd to stand and home plate. The kids were given a ten second head start and ran into the outfield, after which each dad was responsible for wrangling his youngsters. This was hilarious, and my favorite part of the whole experience.

All-in-all, I am glad that we went, and my son had a great time. I think my 16 year old daughter would have enjoyed it, but it might have been a bit much for the three year old. It was definitely a good experience, but if someone offered us tickets again in the future, I would try to find an excuse not to go.

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(Death) Valley of Fire

For those of you that are reading regularly, and I know there are a lot, you are aware that during Mardi Gras in 2024, we visited both Death Valley National Park and Valley of Fire State Park (as well as the Hoover Dam, Lake Mead NRA and Vegas). For purposes of this blog, it made more sense to split the two valleys up, so this post is about our 24 hours or so in the Valley of Fire.

This state park is about an hour northeast of Vegas in Nevada and easily rivals most National Parks. In terms of breadth and scope, Death Valley is definitely more impressive, but in terms of what we actually did, I think the family preferred the Valley of Fire.

This geological wonderland contains petroglyphs, a wave, a slot canyon, petrified wood and so much more. It’s busy and parking can be limited, but it’s an easy trek from Vegas and great way to add an outdoors experience to your trip.

Where to Stay

We stayed on Overton, NV, which is right outside the park, at the North Shore Inn. The Inn is nothing special, but our rooms were clean, and the people are nice. This area is not very well developed, so there are not a lot of places to eat. We ate at a Mexican restaurant called La Fonda and a pizza place called Pirate’s Landing. Neither blew our minds, but when you’ve spent all day hiking and/or driving, a clean place to sit with nice people is all that’s really needed.

What to Do

Elephant Rock: This is one of the first attractions you’ll come across when you enter from the East entrance. There’s a parking lot and a short hike, although you don’t actually have to do the hike, as the Elephant is right along the street. That said, you are not actually allowed to climb the elephant, but if your kids are into bouldering, there are some great opportunities along this short trek.

Rainbow Vista: This trail is a 1 mile out-and-back and ends at a beautiful over look of the red rocks contrasted against the green mountains. It’s relatively easy and is a good introduction to the park.

Seven Wonders Trail: This loop is about two miles and is one of the most popular in the park. About halfway in, you’ll reach the Fire Wave, which is similar to the Wave you’ve likely seen on InstaFace, just to a smaller extent. Without the wave, which is about a mile in, the hike would still be worth it, as the entire expanse is quite impressive. I recommend going clockwise, as you’ll go down the steeper part and walk back up far more gradually.

White Domes Trail: This 1.2-mile loop is at the end of the park and is also quite popular. It takes you through a short slot canyon. It is nowhere near as impressive as something like Antelope Canyon, but for the short time that you’re in it, it is very cool.

Atlatl Rock: This rock is cool in that a staircase has been built into it so you can walk up and see the petroglyphs. I am not one who finds petroglyphs super impressive; if you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. Frankly, it is hard for me to distinguish between protected art and graffiti, but the rock itself is pretty cool, and in order to fill a day, you’ll need to include this. You can also stop at the beehive rocks in your way out of this area.

Fire Canyon: This is more of a drive than a hike, but it offers a really unique view of the Valley from just outside of the parking lot. Following the advice of one of the park rangers, this is where watched the sunset, and it was quite lovely.

What We Learned

We loved this park, and in a lot of way, it’s more impressive than several of the National Parks which we have visited. That is something to keep in mind, especially when headed to the Southwest. There are a lot of great things you can find without much difficulty of you take the time to look around. One full day is certainly enough to hit all the important parts of this park.

Next up, JR and I are headed to Jacksonville for his first concert (Fall Out Boy). We probably won’t post about, but you never know…

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Death Valley (of Fire)

Those of you paying super close attention will note that this is actually two separate blog entries, one for Death Valley and one for Valley of Fire. We actually visited these over the same trip, as well as see Hoover Dam, the Lake Mead National Recreation Area and a Golden Knights games, but for the purposes of this blog, I think it is easier to separate the two Valleys into their own posts.

Over the Mardi Gras break this year, we decided to take the kids out west, again, to see one of the country’s lesser visited National Parks. Death Valley is a below-sea-level basin in constant drought that records summer heat extremes higher than anywhere else in North America.

It takes about two hours to get there from Vegas and is legitimately in the middle of nowhere. Our arrival time was well into the dark of night, which was actually pretty spectacular, as the star-scape is pretty unreal.

We did a lot of planning to figure out exactly how much time we needed, and we settled on basically two full days. I believe one full day could have been enough, and I believe we could have filled more time on a third day, but for us, 36-48 hours seemed like the sweet spot.

Where to Stay:

We stay at The Ranch is Death Valley, which is also associated with the Oasis. This is a great resort. We had a two room cabin that easily slept five and access to all sorts of amenities. The Ranch has a golf course, spring-fed pool that is warm year round, two restaurants, horseback riding, a general store, a museum, a playground, oh, and wifi.

The resort alone makes it worth it to stay a few days. That said, the restaurants are pretty expensive, and the food is more than pretty mediocre. I’d give the resort itself 5-stars with an addendum, giving the restaurants 2. That said, there aren’t a lot of alternatives in the area, so options are limited.

The Ranch is in the Furnace Creek area, which is more or less centrally located. There is another area, which is even more central, that one can stay, called Stovepipe Wells, but it is not nearly as quaint.

What to Do:

Horseback Ride: The Ranch offers several rides into the park, including sunrise and sunset. We did a sunrise tour and frankly, it was kind of a disappointment. The ride was fine, and the views were great, but I can’t say that it was really worth the effort.

Zabriski Point: This is a great introductory overlook into the vastness of Death Valley. It is an easy walk up from a parking lot and the views of the colored hills are pretty impressive.

Badwater Basin: This is the lowest point in North America and is why most people come. The drive takes about half an hour and is definitely worth it. You reach a basin that occasionally has an inch of water in it that you can walk out on; it gives the appearance of walking on water. At this stage in 2024, there was actually far more water than normal, due to Hurricane Sandy, so it actually wasn’t as impressive as we’d hoped. There were several areas though where we could walk out onto the salt flats, which is why we came.

Devils Golf Course: This is a really interested formation of rock and salt that would be an awful place to try to play golf. There is a road down that leads to a parking lot, but during our trip, the road was closed (it’s not clear why), so it was a 2 mile out-and-back to see anything of interest. I am not actually sure this is worth the walk, but the ‘golf course’ itself is pretty interested.

Gold Canyon Hike: The way we did this hike was from the Golden Canyon parking lot, and was about 4.5 miles. There are several intersecting trails that can make it far shorter or far longer, depending on what you want to do a see. The walk through the canyons and up the mountains is amazing, but strenuous. I recommend going clockwise, as you get the toughest section done in the first two miles and get to enjoy or more leisurely pace as you see the golden hills contrasted against the red and green rocks.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes: There is an unusual, almost out-of-place, set of sand dunes near the Stovepipe Wells area, which is about half an hour from furnace creek. It is a popular place to watch the sunset, but there are so many dunes that it is easy to find your own personal dune to watch the god-flame set.

Ubehebe Crater: The crater is a solid hour-plus drive from the main areas of the park, but it is worth it. One of the interesting things about this NP is the varying topography, and the fact that a giant volcanic crater is part of the mix is pretty cool. You can drive up to it and hike all the way around for some cool views. I am not sure the hike is necessary, but it is a lovely area.

Mosaic Canyon: This is another worthwhile hike, about 3 miles out and back. It is uphill on the way in, but the grade is not too severe. I recommend it, but if you are pressed for time, the best parts of the hike are in the first half to full mile, so if you don’t make it all the way until the end, you won’t be missing out on much.

What We Didn’t Do:

Dante’s View: Unfortunately, this part of the park was closed due to recent flooding, but I understanding the view to be pretty impressive. That said, it sounds very similar to Zabriski Point, so I am not too devastated at having missed it.

20 Mule Team Canyon: This is supposed to be a very scenic drive in an historic area, but again was closed, due to recent flooding.

Artist’s Drive/Palette: This being closed was a real disappointment. It is supposed to be the best place to view the varying colors of the rock formations, ideally about an hour prior to sunset. It was a good learning experience for the kids, that sometimes things happen that you can’t change, and there are plenty of other places to see rocks a shockingly unusual color, but not getting to see it did suck.

Racetrack Playa: This was actually open, but we made the conscious decision not to go. The turn-off for the Racetrack is at the Ubehebe Crater parking lot, but says that it requires a high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicle. I have heard that most SUVs can handle it, and I think ours could have, but you are an awfully long way from nothing, with no cell service, if something goes wrong. This is the area where you can see the rocks apparently move on their own. If we ever go back, I think we’ll try to get a better car, but for this time around, oh well.

What We Learned

It depends on what you want to do, but Death Valley can be done pretty well in just a day. That said, if we really dived into what the The Ranch has to offer, I think we could have stayed there for three or four. I would definitely recommend getting a car that can handle the Racetrack Playa drive, which can be rented in the Furnace Creek area if needed.

I do not think I will be putting DV in my top 10 National Parks, and frankly, it might actually be towards the bottom, but the family and I had a great time. It is definitely something every Parks fan should see and given the opportunity, I would definitely go again.

The second part of our trip took place in another valley (of Fire). Take a look at our next post for more information about this incredible State Park.

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Thanksgiving and Red Rocks in Sedona

This year for America’s favorite holiday, the Igoes again avoided sitting around in either St. Louis or San Antonio with our families and instead head west for beautiful Arizona. This was our third trip to the Grand Canyon state, and third different location we visited, which makes us think that perhaps we should just move to Arizona.

That not withstanding, we flew into Phoenix and drove north two hours to Sedona. Something to be kept in mind is that at certain times of day and year, this drive can take far longer than it seems it should, due to heavy traffic and narrow lanes, so please plan accordingly.

We rented in a house on the Oak Village area of Sedona, large enough for my extended family of parents and three brothers. The house was amazing, and in a fine location, but there are some takeaways that we will touch on towards the end.

Phoenix to Sedona

On our way up, we stopped at a few places to kill some time before we were able to check into the VRBO:

Montezuma Castle: This is a National Historic Site that is basically on your route, in the Verde area. It is a pretty interesting cliff dwelling, but aside from that, there isn’t a ton to see or do. It’s less than a half mile round trip to see the dwelling, and you can’t actually enter the dwelling. It’s pretty interesting, and there’s a passport stamp that can be obtained, but I think we spent no more than an hour there.

Verde Brewing Company: We ate lunch at a small, kind of underdeveloped brewery in Verde. The food was fine, as was the beer, but honestly, it was nothing special. On our way to our next stop, we went through the town of Cottonwood, which, in retrospect, is where we should have stopped for lunch. The town is adorable, and there is a lot there, including a brewery.

Tuzigoot National Monument: This adobe is another NPS are not too far off the route to Sedona, especially if you do stop in Cottonwood. We actually enjoyed this site more than Montezuma, I think. It’s a nice, short hike up a hill to a beautiful vista. The adobe is mostly recreation at this point, but it is still pretty fun to walk around, and yes, you can get your passport book stamped.

Sedona (Can’t Miss)

We did everything maximize the time we had in Sedona, only 3+ days, so below, I have chronicled the things that we did, how we did them, and why we would do them again.

Devil’s Bridge: This is one of the most popular hikes in Sedona, and thus, requires arriving early. We got to the parking lot at about 7:15 am and had no trouble getting a space. When we left about two hours later, the lot was full. There are several ways to do this trail, including taking a Pink Jeep tour or high clearance vehicle to a spot 1 mile shy of the bridge. Barring this, I recommend the Mescal Trailhead. From here, the round trip is about 4 miles, and the entire hike up is breathtaking. There are other options, but none which offer such a beautiful approach.

A few things about this trail to remember. If you take the Mescal Trail head, the first mile+ is relatively flat and easy, and then there’s a bit of rock scrambling towards the end. When you reach the top, the views are amazing and bridge is very unique. That said, even that early in the morning, we had to wait in line at the top of the bridge to get the Instagram-worthy picture that my 16 year-old (and every one else in Sedona) wanted.

Subway Cave: This was my favorite of the hikes we did, but also, an extremely popular Sedona experience. We arrived at about 8 am and no trouble parking, but by the time we left at around 11, the lot and trail were packed. This trail can be a bit difficult to identify, as it is actually called the Boynton Canyon trail, which has its own termination point. Basically, about two miles in, you take a right at the ‘Alligator Tree’ and go another quarter of the mile, over several fallen trees, to a great cave and Native American ruins. If you are using All Trails, it shows were to take the turn. If not, you can follow the crowds or look out for the Alligator Tree, although I did not find it as distinct as others had described.

The two mile approach is beautiful and mostly flat. Once you take the right turn, it gets narrower, and the end is definitely a climb. I did it with a three year old attached to me, so it is certainly doable. I recommend going up into the Subway Cave using the ‘slide’ on the right. After you get your picture, take the turn around to the right of the cave and check out the ruins. This part is just as impressive, and there is another way down that allows you to avoid the traffic coming up. If you have the time and the will to get to this trail early, I couldn’t recommend it more strongly.

Soldier Pass/Seven Sacred Pools: In order to access this popular Sedona site, it is necessary to take the Sedona Shuttle to the trailhead. Instead, we took a guide tour offered be West Sedona Jeep Tours. There are plenty of options, and all worth the time. We were able to book three separate Jeeps to accommodate our entire group, and were able to tour this area in about two hours.

The bumpy, thrilling jeep ride took us first to the Seven Sacred Pools, followed by Soldier Cave. It was nice for the whole family to get to participate. Several of the hikes we did were without the larger group, and for a few, my mom (70) stopped once the rock scrambling began. The tour group was great and payoff was certainly worth it.

Birthing Cave: Another popular location, this site is a bit easier to park at, and is less than two miles, round-trip. Much like the rest of Sedona, the approach is mostly flat with a rock scramble to the top. The view from the Birthing Cave is really impressive, but you are likely to have to wait in line to get the shot that you want. I also found some of the online photos of this area misleading. It is not a through-and-through hole in the mountain (arch). There is definitely a back wall, with a little cove, from where you can get great pictures. My daughter got herself into the cove and successfully birthed back out for a great photo.

Fey Canyon/Arch: This hike is actually not nearly as well-traveled as some of the others. We were turned onto it by our Jeep guides, and for the most part, had the trail to ourselves. The hike is similar to Devil’s Bridge, in that it ends on and arch that you can ascend. It is not quite as stand-alone as Devil’s Bridge, but it was my daughter’s favorite part of our trip.

Again, the hike is not long, and there is a scramble at the end. I suggest that on the approach, though, you are vigilant, as the turn off to the scramble to the arch is actually not all that obvious, so keep an eye on your trail map.

West Fork Trail: This trail was billed as something similar to The Narrows in Zion, but frankly, it was kind of a disappointment. On the north end of Sedona, this trail which requires $12 to be accessed, winds along the West Fork River and crosses in several places. Out and back, I believe it is about 7 miles.

The scenery is lovely, but it does not compare to The Narrows. I should mention that the baby was acting like a psycho at the time, so we didn’t make it to the end, which is supposed to be the best part. Your experience might be different, but of all the things we did, I would put this at the bottom of the list.

Bell Rock: This short, but steep hike is one of the main attractions in the southern half of Sedona. The ‘trail’ is less than a mile up, but it is relatively undefined, and is mostly a rock scramble. This is a great area to take in panoramic views of the sunset. Parking is free and does not require the shuttle, but can be kind of difficult. Bell Rock is a great spot and offers something for hikers of all ages and skill levels.

Castle Rock: Castle Rock is one of the most popular destinations in Sedona. In order to access it on weekends, you have to take the Sedona Shuttle. Early in the day, this is quick and easy but as the day lengthens and traffic worsens, the shuttle can take some time.

If at all possible, you’ve got to climb Castle Rock. It is not particularly dissimilar to Bell Rock, but I thought the views were better, and the sunset is pretty amazing.

Chapel of the Holy Cross: Regardless of your religious affiliation, this Catholic Church, cut into the side of the mountain, is pretty cool. I recommend going early, as the crowds get intense, but even then, it is worth it. It is an active Church, so it is important to be respectful, but if at all possible, I recommend a quick visit.

For Next Time:

I thought Sedona was amazing; I would love to visit again. If possible, I would choose to go at a less busy time; Thanksgiving is very popular, but I suppose that is the nature of the beast. Traffic getting from the Oak Village area (south) to North Sedona and West Sedona can take quite sometime in the middle of the day.

If we were choosing where to stay again, I think I would pick the north area. Most of the hikes we really wanted to do were North and West, as well as most of the restaurants and shops. Bell and Castle Rock are both on the south side, but aside from that, we spent most of our time elsewhere.

What I wish I had known prior to our last day is that from the south side of Sedona, there are trails that allow you to access things like Castle Rock from a different approach. We learned this by taking a few wrong turns and getting advice from a local. There is a street called Verde Valley School Rd. If you follow this until it becomes a dirt road and keep going, you will come to a few parking lots that access several trails, including ones that can be put together to get you to Castle Rock. By the time we discovered this, it was too late to really take advantage, but next time around, this is where we’ll start.

Not sure what’s next for us. Christmas is in San Antonio, and after that, there is talk of Costa Rica, or maybe the Virgin Islands, but we’ll be back on the trail soon. I’ll keep you posted…

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Almost Heaven – Shenandoah

This year, for Fall Break, in addition to a short trip to Harpers Ferry and college tour for Eileen, they family and I spent basically 48 hours in Shenandoah National Park. If you’re asking whether or not this is adequate time, I think the answer is probably no. There were definitely things that we would’ve like to have done but couldn’t squeeze in

If you are wondering whether two days is enough time to get a good feel for the park and really enjoy it, then the answer is definitely yes.

Just 75 miles from the bustle of Washington, D.C., Shenandoah National Park is a land bursting with cascading waterfalls, spectacular vistas, fields of wildflowers, and quiet wooded hollows. With over 200,000 acres of protected lands that are haven to deer, songbirds, and black bear, there’s so much to explore. We started at the North end of the park, at the Dickey Ridge Visitors Center and made our way south along the Skyline Drive.

The park is basically bisected by this drive, with plenty of things to do along the way. It is also surrounded by multiple small towns that offer various other activities.

Hikes

Bearfence Loop Trail: This 1.4 mile loop is one of the most popular trails in the park, not without reason. The way up involves several strenuous rock scrambles. It was quite difficult with a 3 year old strapped in, but we made it. We did it later in the day, which gave us a great view of the sunset, but it can be, and was at the time, extremely windy. Most of the other people on the trail turned back and scrambled back down, but it is actually easier if you keep going. The decent along a portion of the Appalachian Trail is quite mild. Alltrails was very helpful in this respect, as I am not sure it was clear to all that this trail is actually a loop.

Dark Hollow Falls: This is another great trail, and 1.5 miles out-and-back. Again, very popular, the way down to the falls is quite steep, so be prepared for a tough trek back up. When you reach the end, the payoff is solid, but honestly, not great. If you are hoping for a massive cascade, I think you’ll be disappointed. In terms of falls, I would put this at a 5 or 6/10, but the trail is definitely worth taking.

Excursions

Luray Caverns: We actually stayed in Luray, which is about halfway down Skyline Drive. In Luray, there is really cool set of caves that you can tour at your leisure. I love a good cave, and this one does not disappoint. That said, I recommend getting to the caves right when they open. They are very popular, which can lead to traffic jams inside the caves themselves. This area is well-developed, with several other things to do, including a ropes course that all three of our kids enjoyed.

Rafting: We took a trip with the Shenandoah River Outfitters. It was self-guided but very well marked. It was a little cold to be on the water in the fall, but our portion of the river was mild to the point that we didn’t really get wet. This company offers multiple options with vary degrees of difficulty, and we chose what we did as it allowed our 3 year old to participate.

Ziplining: Our kids love a good zip, and we made a reservation with Bear Mountain Ziplines. The tour included 7 zips, and for those of you experienced, it is the type that involves hand-breaking. Of the zips we’ve done, I wouldn’t put this in the top 5, but everyone had a lot of fun.

Horseback Riding: We actually didn’t get to ride this trip, due to my daughter’s college tour, but there are a few outfitters that will take you into the park itself. One, Mountaintop Ranch, will even let you go tandem with a little one.

Lodging/Food

Luray: We stayed in a VRBO in Luray, which was about 20 minutes from one of the park entrances. I recommend this only if you are unable to get lodging in the park. The lodging within is quite limited, so this is a good back-up option, but if you are planning well in advance, you are much better off within the friendly confines.

Elkwallow Wayside: This shop does not offer any lodging options, but is a must-stop. It is along the Skyline Drive and a regular stop for those hiking the Appalachian Trail. We ate lunch here, smash burgers from the grill, and stocked up on a few supplies for the house. The food is good, and the ambiance is unbeatable.

Skyland: This is one of the two main lodges in the park, and it has a restaurant and tap room. Of the two, we preferred this lodge less. The tap room is really just an offshoot of the restaurant with the same menu, and our wait was about an hour. That said, it was a nice place to sit and watch the sunset, and the food was fine. If it had availability, I would have been happy to stay in the Skyland Lodge, but if both had availability, I would definitely prefer Big Meadows.

Big Meadows Wayside: Big Meadows is the further south lodge, and I believe a little smaller. It feels a lot more quint, and their tap room is completely separate. This is where we ate, and the food and atmosphere were terrific. This was one of my favorite nights in the park.

If you’re heading to Shenandoah NP, there is a enough to do to fill a week. If possible, plan ahead and try to stay inside the park. I think you’ll be much happier that you did.

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Harpers Ferry in Four Hours

The Igoes have finally answered one of the world’s great questions: can Harpers Ferry be fully appreciate in just half a day? The answer is unequivocally no.

For fall break this year, including a college visit in DC, and a NP visit in Virginia, we decided to check WV off the list for all the Igoes who aren’t writing this blog. I have been several times, primarily driving to and from UVA with my dad and brother, but none of the rest of us had.

You may or may not be aware that a new NP exists in West Virginia, New River Gorge, but our youngest isn’t old enough for most of the river excursions, so we took the next best option, which, for me, is Harpers Ferry.

This beautiful historic site is tucked into the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers, and has extensive historical significance, from John Brown’s abolitionist movement to a munitions hub during the Civil War. The area is beautifully maintained and a lovely place to spend a few hours.

That said, we probably could have put together two or three days here, especially without the kids. There are a lot of places to eat, a lot of mini-museums and a whole lot to see.

Things to Do:

Jefferson Rock: Getting to this feature of Harpers Ferry is a fun trek. You go up a set of old stone steps, past a Catholic Church that’s been there for year but is still in operation, to a beautiful look out that Thomas Jefferson noted as one of the most wonderful places he’d seen. You get a great view of the valley and both rivers. It is not a strenuous journey, and for me, is the best reason to go.

The Point: This feature is also a view of the confluence of the two rivers. It’s definitely worth seeing, and is only a few minutes off the main thoroughfares as you wander around town.

Appalachian Trail: America’s great hiking trail passes directly through Harpers Ferry, and you’ll have the opportunity to walk over the river alongside a train track that is very nostalgic and very unique. This was my favorite view of the area and shouldn’t be missed.

What We Didn’t Do:

There are several satellite areas of the National Historic Site that we didn’t have time to visit, and just about every restaurant looks great and has a John Denver-based name. I felt like we could have easily spent a long weekend in the park, and loved it. There might not have been a ton more for the kids to do, but as a couple, I think we would make a really nice getaway spot.