This year for Mardi Gras, we decided to pull the trigger and head to the southern border, and visit Big Bend National Park. We had been hesitant about the time of year because Texas got a really bad snow storm over Mardi Gras a few years back. Thankfully, that is a rarity, and we had terrific weather (lows in the 50s, highs in the 80s).

We flew into Midland, which is a solid 3+ hour drive, but it is the closest major airport. Something to in mind is that there are plans to renovate the Chisos Basin area in the near future, which will shut down much of the park. Those plans have been pushed several times though, so check before making any plans. Something else to consider is that, evidently, Homeland Security has plans to build part of the border wall directly through the park.
Politics aside, I hope that this doesn’t come to fruition. It would mar much of the natural beauty and would render certain excursions no longer possible. This is not an area where illegal crossings occur, as there is nothing on either side of the border for several hundred miles. If it does come to pass, much of what we did might not be available, so keep that in mind.
What We Did
River Tour: We used a group called Big Bend Boating and Hiking, which offers all sorts of excursions, including several river tours. We did a half day tour that actually started in Big Bend State Park. We canoed through Dark Canyon for about two hours, bouncing back and forth between the US and Mexico side. It was a great time, and a great way to see a lot of the area.

Boquillas Mexico Tour: One of the best things to do is visit the small town of Boquillas just across the Rio Grande. You can do this on your own or go with a guide. We used the same company that took us boating. We first did a short 1.5 mile hike in Boquillas canyon, which was optional, but also a very nice introduction to the area. You get ferried across the river, which is only about two feet deep and then have the option to walk, ride a truck or ride a burrow about half a mile into town.
Once you get into town, there are plenty of little shops to buy souvenirs, a few restaurants and a couple of other touristy things. We ate at Jose Falcons (goat tacos), which was excellent. Our son took the opportunity to drive golf balls from the back of a small Mexican’s house into the desert.
I strongly recommend you take the donkeys, and don’t forget to bring a pretty decent amount of cash and your passports.

Hiking: There are all sorts of trails of various lengths, so I recommend doing a lot of research into what makes the most sense for you.
The Window Trail is one of the most popular trails in the park. You can start from the normal trailhead or the amphitheater trailhead, which has more parking. The amphitheater route is a bit shorter, but you end up walking from the lot about 3 tenths of a mile. The round trip, out and back is about 5 miles one way or the other. The payoff at the end is really interesting, but you should keep in mind that this a downhill out, so on the way back, be prepared to walk back up.
The Lost Mine Trail is another very popular trail, and probably the one with the most difficult parking. We went by at around 8:30 am, and the very small parking lot was already full. This was when we did the Window Trail, but on the way out, a spot opened up, so we decided to pull the trigger on the Lost Mine as well. This made our day of hiking over 10 miles, but it was worth it.

The Lost Mine Trail is great. It’s relatively strenuous on the way, but the payoff at the top is spectacular. While I enjoyed the Window, the windblown landscape at the top of the Lost Mine Trail is nothing short of spectacular.
Also in this area, Chisos Basin, is the Window View Trail. Be sure not to confuse these, as one is about 4 tenths of a mile and the other quite a bit more. We did both, just to knock everything in Chisos out. It’s an easy, paved loop, and we actually saw a small herd of deer, so for us, it was worth it.
The Grapevine Hill Trail is outside of Chisos off the main road, and requires that you have an adequate vehicle. We were in a Suburban, which was fine, and probably overkill. I am not sure a 4WD, high clearance vehicle is actually necessary, but I wouldn’t have felt comfortable in a Honda Civic. The trail is pretty fun. It is a very graduate incline for the 1 mile way out, culminating in a rock scramble that leads to Balance Rock. If you’ve got a car that can handle it and enjoy a good climb, I definitely recommend it.
The Tuff Canyon Overlook really isn’t a hike, but a very short path with a few canyon overlooks. It is worth it if you’re taking the Ross Maxwell Drive, as the canyon is pretty cool

The same thing goes for the Mule Ears Overlook and the Sotol Vista Overlook. Neither is really a trail, but there are some really nice views. We weren’t there at the right time, but I think Sotol would be a great place to watch the sunset.
The Santa Elena Canyon trail was my favorite of the trip. At the end of the Ross Maxwell Drive, there’s a great trail with decent parking that takes you into the canyon itself. If you’re an All Trails user, keep your eyes open. For one, it is not 1.6 miles but more like 2.5, and two, the trail on the app isn’t super accurate.
You take the trail over the beach, then cross a rock bridge over an offshoot of the river and climb up a few switch backs. On the way back down, you go through several tunnels of tall grass that really block out any sound and are almost eerie. At the end, you can walk out onto several rock formations that give great views deep into the canyon. This trail is not to be missed.
Where We Stayed
Lajitas Golf Resort and Spa: I know this sounds fancy, and it kind of was, but we had a very nice experience. The positives are that the resort is well done, has a few restaurants, a pool, a bar and ice cream. The negative is that it’s a good 45 minutes to the park entrance. We looked at other options which I’ll discuss, but even with the distance, we found this worked best for us.

In the small town of Terlingua, there are a few motels and lodges, but none of them looked very nice. There are also several AirBnB options, like igloos and tent style tiny homes. The reason we passed on these is that most didn’t have their own restrooms. The ones that did were super expensive
There is also a lodge in Chisos Basin, which is open at the moment but is planned to be remodeled. They appears very rustic, but certainly would be the most convenient if you were willing to eat most of your meals in the park.
Where We Ate
Believe it or not, there are several really good restaurants in the Terlingua area, which as mentioned, is about halfway between Big Bend and Lajitas.
Upon arrival, we stopped at the Starlight Theater, by far the most popular restaurant in the area. It’s housed in a remodeled adobe building, and they have expanded to include a general store and an outdoor bar. It opens at 4:30 pm and evidently, if you want to eat right away, you need to get there at 4. When we arrived, we were told it would be an hour and half plus wait, so we visited the store, went to the bar and ordered a few drinks, along with chips and queso.
The wait turned out to be less than 45 minutes, so don’t be put off. The experience was incredible, 5 stars, but the food is probably only 3.5 stars or so. Everything was good, and they’ve got great local offerings like antelope and quail, but it wasn’t the best food of the trip.
Long Draw Pizza is probably the second busiest restaurant in the area, and is actually just a bit outside of Terlingua. It was mostly full when we arrived, and a lot of the seating is communal, but we did not have to wait long. This was my favorite meal of the trip. The pizza was great, the beer was cold, and we went after our 10 mile hike day. It’s hard to beat a pizza after a long day on the trails.

On our third night, we ate at High Sierra Bar and Grill. This is part of a hotel, and the food was good, but it was definitely the meal we enjoyed the least. It’s kind of an odd place staffed by odd people, but we had a nice experience.
DB’s Rustic BBQ was our last stop, and it was great. There was live music, the people were very friendly, and the food was classic Texas BBQ (don’t skip the sausage).
What We Didn’t Do
We had at one point booked a UTV tour of the area, but it was canceled for insurance reasons. Had we wanted, we could have booked with another company and fudged on Clara’s age, but we felt we were already pushing it to see everything within the park itself.
We were hoping to eat at Taqueria el Milago, the reportedly best Mexican restaurant in town, but when we arrived, we realized it was BYOB, and we didn’t bring any. I get this makes it seem like we might have a problem, but sometimes all you want after a long day of hiking is an ice cold beer.
The one trail that we didn’t get to, about which I’d heard great things, was the Upper Burro Mesa Trail. If we’d had one more day, it would have been a nice 3.6 mile hike, but we simply couldn’t find the right time.
If the mood strikes you to drive south into the desert, I strongly recommend you stop at Big Bend. It is really nothing short of spectacular and has something for everyone. Plan ahead, as you’ll want to know if Chisos is open or closed and if someone split the park in two with a huge wall. I think if Chisos had been closed, we would have waited, but even without it, there’s still a lot to do.
Next up for the Traveling Igoes is our annual Easter/baseball trip. We’ll be flying into Pittsburgh and out of Detroit, so stay tuned.


















